Brian and Jackie Cross: Part 2 of our 'not too shabby' hiking and via ferrata trip to the Italian Dolomites 15th to 23rd July

Tuesday 23 July 2024

Part 2 of our 'not too shabby' hiking and via ferrata trip to the Italian Dolomites 15th to 23rd July

Jackie, Di and Si ascending a via ferrata in the Sella mountains

Here's part 2 of our exhausting and very exciting two week hiking and via ferrata trip to the Italian Dolomites with our friends Si and Di, who we met in Vietnam 10 years ago. Keen mountaineers as they are, the time was packed with lots of long mountain hiking days, with a liberal scattering of via ferratas, some relatively easy (grade 1A) through to strenuous, difficult and exposed ones at 4B. As mountain huts needed to be booked well in advance, it was left to Di to book everything as we were away in India on our recent trip. After much frustration on her part she eventually managed to arrange a fabulous itinerary and we took off on 9th July for an amazing two weeks. The first part, 9th to 14th July is covered in our earlier blog entry (click here), this is the second part, 15th to 23rd July, of our day by day account with lots of photos:

Day 7 (15th July) 9km, 981m ascent, 5 hours. Via ferrata (CORV5) length: 200m, grade: 3B.

Bus back to Corvara and two long lifts up. Walked 15 minutes to the Kostner hut and dropped off our overnight stuff, sleeping bag liners, hut slippers, clean pants, toothbrush etc, only taking the essentials, waterproof trousers and jackets, sun hats, wooly hats buff and gloves, down jackets, VF harness, lanyard and gloves, lunch, water....

This was our hardest VF to date Piz da Lech, and wasn't 'ladders and ledges' as described by Simon and Di but much more like climbing, though with a good strong cable to haul on when the need arose. We had set off just before a big group of British guys. If they'd been Italian we'd have let them go first, or they'd probably have overtaken us, but as it was we made the right decision to go ahead. Once at the top of the cable it was still a long way to the summit, but it has to be done.

Back to the hut and the very soft old dog for more well deserved beer. We do seem to deserve it every day though.

Our Piz Alpen BnB set in fabulous mountain scenery

The top of the Vallon ski lift where we had just exited

And that's the view as we got off the lift. To the right is our first target, after dropping gear at the Kostner hut, that's the Piz da Lech, a via ferrata that takes us right to the top. Ahead in that recessed valley is tomorrows target, another via ferrata and one that goes on and leads to the highest peak, Piz Boe (as there's an accent over the 'e' its pronounced Bo-ey, as Luca was insistent to point out)

Over there is the Kostner hut, our bed for the night, so over there first, drop gear (and get a drink) and then back here to continue for the via ferrata

Arriving at the Kostner hut, a proper mountain hut!

Looking back from the hut, that's where we're going today. Towards the right is an inverted 'V' scree slope at the bottom with some grass growing through it and, you might be able to see, a path running left to the base of a spur. The route goes up there to the top through cracks you can see to the right of the vertical black line. After exiting the cracks we go left, upwards to the highest point, then backtrack further to the right and down another via ferrata to get back. It'll be fine, what's there to worry about!

Zooming in you can see there's some people on it.

And zooming out a bit there's more people further up, including one near the top

Arriving at the start. Look carefully and you can see the wire going up, it starts at the bottom just to the left and heads up out of sight, then reappears again (you might have to zoom in) heading up slightly moving left round the higher round top block, then finally going up in the centre at the very top

Jackies on her way, the picture at the top is the next stage

That'll be an exposed bit then

Everyone looks very happy

A couple of ladders to ascend now. Can you see them? One in the centre and another, slightly offset leading to the skyline

Simon making his way up. Way down behind him on the right is the Vallon ski lift that we came up on

More, slightly easier via ferrata, so we didn't need to clip in to that

Then there was a little bridge to cross. Of course, it looks nothing in this photo, but its an open rung ladder placed horizontally across a gulf with a big drop below it. Don't let the big drop between your feet put you off as you step on the rungs, you're clipped into a wire, what could possibly go wrong?

Finally we reach the summit cross

Nice views from up here. Just off to the right on the road down there is the BnB we came from this morning. Up high just left of centre is a small lake and, by that, just out of view is our third mountain hut, where we'll be in two days time

Simon makes it. I was sure I had a summit photo of us all somewhere, but I can't find it

Our entry in the summit book

A sandwich, a drink, enjoy the views and then the small matter of going back down

View before we started the steep descent. Can you see the Kostner hut down there? That's where we're heading. In the distance is the white glacier on the Marmolada mountain. The jagged peaks in front of it going off left is our target for the last day, the Trincee via ferrata, the hardest we'll do at 4B

We need to clip into the cable on this steep part of the descent

Just the walk back to the hut then, can you see it?

Our beds for the night

But not before tea and cake quickly followed by beer!

Watching the sunset and moonrise of the Marmolada after a splendid day

Day 8 (16th July) 6km, 681m ascent, 5 hours. Via ferrata (CORV7) length: 200m, grade: 2B. See Relive video with map and photos: click here

We were heading to the Boe hut over Piz Boe, so avoiding the walking path we set off to the VF. After some dodgy route finding we crossed the snow we'd been trying to avoid and found the start of the wire, getting there just before 4 Italians who had also had a struggle with their route finding and had led us astray a little. This VF is obviously being renewed, lots of new stanchions, and lots of dust where they have been drilling, but still the old cable attached to the old hoops, so no hauling on this cable. Eventually we got to a point where the new stanchions were in use with a new cable, just when we needed it. Again, glad we went ahead though we were overtaken by a couple of girls, just as we got to the hairy bridge which freaked one of them out good and proper!

It was still a long way up, and a little more dodgy route finding before it was decided that we did have to go over the peak no one wanted to go over, before walking along the ridge and up to the top of Piz Boe. Here we joined the squillions of others who had also wanted to get to 3152m

We were glad we weren't staying at the hut there but at the one just below on the plateau. Seemingly new and a little soulless it was huge, but did have 2 cats, Spritzer and Tequila.

Sunrise through the bathroom window next morning

I had to take this one through the heart window outside the Kostner hut

After setting off we had some doubts as to where the via ferrata started. The dark area in the centre is a small waterfall fed from that diagonal crag above. There was a path round from the right across that scree and we could see some people above the dark area so we went that way. We met them halfway there who said that's not the way. We backtracked and eventually found it on the bluff just left of the waterfall after we'd crossed the snow. It went up the easier angled stuff, over the waterfall and off into the distance beyond

We found it and got started. Below us are the yellow clad people who'd told us they'd gone the wrong way. They followed us to the correct start but were very slow. Glad we set off before them, we didn't see them again until the Boe hut in the evening

Then we had to cross the waterfall on this very wobbly, rickety bridge. Very atmospheric. I went first, this is Jackie...

Followed by Di and finally Simon. From here it went straight up!

Here we are climbing up the near vertical face with the bridge behind and, far below the snow we crossed to start

From there is was a long walk over the plateau and then up over the peak to the left, the peak on the right and then to Piz Boe summit which actually is in the centre partly shrouded in cloud

A little bit of cloud came in as we crossed the snowy col

Had our first view of our mountain hut accommodation for tonight, the Boe hut you can just see down there. Very posh hut hut it is

But first there's more peaks to go over and wires to hang on to

And then join the main path up from the Boe hut (and a nearby ski lift) where crowds of people were going up the the Piz Boe hut on the summit of the highest peak in this range. That's where we're heading

Quite pleased to see this sign. You might not be able to read it, but we'd come from the left to join the main path and, on the route we'd taken, the sign at the top said 'Sentiero per escursionisti esperti', which translates as 'path for experienced people only'. Well, that's us!

Arriving at the Piz Boe summit hut. We could have stayed there but we'd been told its quite basic and the Boe hut further down is much better (as well as perhaps less exposed)

On the summit with all the others

And he birds who would really have liked to share our lunch. I've forgotten what they are now, snowy something or other. Quite tame they were, obviously very used to people up here

The very busy route back down. We were a bit afraid of getting loose stones kicked down on our heads from above here

Nearly there. We'd come down from above those cliffs up there

The Boe hut, a very plush recently renovated and not like a traditional mountain hut at all. It could have been anywhere once inside (and not looking out of the windows!), modern, clean, nice bathrooms, big dining area, just very posh!

Day 9 (17th July) 5km, 156m ascent, 3 hours. See Relive video with map and photos: click here

A short day (hurrah) only an hour and a half if we had gone straight to our last hut, the Pisciadu. Obviously there was a peak on the way, Pisciadu itself at 2985m so we scrambled up and down there before getting to the hut at about midday. The weather has been threatening but has been ok and at 15.35 I have just finished rewriting the blog, having inadvertently deleted everything before this. Just as well it was only a short day!

On our way across the high plateau next day. Here we are looking back at where we've come from. You can just see the Piz Boe hut and summit in the distance. We'd come over the nearer hill and were now ascending another peak

Here we are descending a rather nasty snow slope. I was the only one amongst us not using poles so had to be particularly careful as a slip could have resulted in a long slide with rocks at the bottom

This is Pisciadu summit at 2985m. We could have bypassed it on the way to the Pisciadu hut, but decided an ascent to its top should be done

It was, shall we say, a bit of a slog. At this point it got very steep and became a scramble so hands were needed to climb. Here the others were putting away their poles so they could use their hands

Up it went, lungs breathing deeply!

And finally the summit

Jackie's turn to write in the summit book

And then down again with another wire to steady us if required

And finally the Pisciadu hut comes into view on the banks of a clear blue lake

Home for the night, a proper mountain hut

Amongst fabulous views of mountains

Day 10 (18th July) 6km, 343m ascent, 5 hours. Via ferrata (CORV2) length: 100m, grade: 2A. See Relive video with map and photos: click here

We were very grateful to have been moved into a room for 6 out of the dorm for 20 though we still woke up early and were on our way down by 08.15. The route down 666 was fairly horrible, slightly damp and slippery with some interesting stuff under foot including another couple of snow crossings. We are just pleased that we left when we did as it meant we had covered the 'interesting' stuff before we met anyone coming up.

Having hit the pass by 10.00 we got a short lift to the bottom of one of the most popular VF's in the area. We did take advantage of the bar at the top of the lift for coffee and cake to supplement the limp breakfast we had had at the hut. This was necessary, despite seeing the large numbers of people come past to climb the same route.

We made our way up, just getting ahead of a large British family as we didn't think we'd have them biting at our heels , in fact we never saw them again. We did end up having a long wait to the summit behind a big group being brought up on a confidence rope. Gave us time to enjoy the view anyway!

Up and down in time for lunch where we had coffee before getting the bus back to Colfosco where we stayed 4 nights ago and where the car was. In to the shower, we hadn't had one for two nights and felt decidedly grungy. Since then we've been out for ice-cream, had a beer on the terrace though we've had to come in as it's too hot, even at 17.30. Just to pack now, as we want to be away early tomorrow, to get the first bus to the pass to do a very popular long route, back up to our hut of last night. Fortunately there is another descent route which hopefully won't be as bad as today's. Looks like I've got to pack as I got a look for suggesting Brian could do it while I write before we go out for pizza, and now he's snoring!

The Pisciadu hut as we were ready to leave. We'll be back here tomorrow though as we intend to do an interesting via ferrata up from the valley floor to here and then back down again

Pisciadu summit that we'd climbed yesterday. We'd arrived here from the Boe hut from over on the right, climbed the peak and then arrived here via the path over the scree to the right

There are two routes down to the valley floor from the Pisciadu hut, this one, down a narrow valley on route 666 and another further over down the huge valley of Val de Mesdi. As we were coming back tomorrow we decided to do one on each day. This one started off ok...

But got steep, broken, loose rock and downright dangerous

Very loose scree and snow slopes to cross

We were glad when it opened out and, here we decided to cross the valley and go up to do a via ferrata on those peaks on the other side. As it was a last minute decision and we hadn't taken our guide book into the mountains I messaged a friend of mine, Andrew (Batty to his old mates who knew him before he became a mountain leader in Scotland. He doesn't like being called Batty now, but its OK, he won't be reading this - possibly! We'll find out) and asked if he could send photos from his book to me. He did, within 5 minutes! Thank you (if you read this)!

That's where we're going. There's a via ferrata to the top of that

And just to prove it, here we are on it. We'd arrived by taking that ski lift behind Jackie

Nice photo opportunities on it

Di looking reasonably confident on the same bit

And then we hit a bit of a queue. Apparently three groups were ahead and they all needed a confidence rope (and extra rope provided by a guide to haul them up). This took a long time as the rope had to be passed down to the next person

Patiently waiting from the queue to clear

Which it did eventually and we were able to top out

Simon celebrating his arrival

We bypassed the guided groups and made our way down

Art!

Now that's how to end!

Day 11 (19th July) 11km, 848m ascent, 6 hours. Via ferrata (CORV4) length: 400m, grade: 3B. See Relive video with map and photos: click here

Tridentina VF today, according to the local website one of the most famous and popular in the Dolomites. Carefully planned by Di that we could do it on a Thursday so avoiding weekends we were still a bit worried. We left the car at the hotel, with the lovely Luca, and got the first bus to the pass. Ordinarily we'd probably have driven but the main carpark for this is currently under construction so parking would have had to be on the road, with one of our bags on the back seat. So, first bus 08.43, we would have liked it to be a little earlier but it was free bus, or expensive taxi, so bus won't.

There were a few people ahead of us when we arrived and geared up but that was ok and we nipped in just ahead of the guide who was roping up his clients. We were initially behind two separate families, one who obviously felt pressured by Brian, though he kept telling her he wasn't, and one who stopped for a little rest just between the two sections. We still had people ahead of us, but they were obviously moving just faster than us, and we were moving just faster than those behind us. This worked to perfection.

635 m of ascent took us about 3hours 15minutes, which is pretty much bang on. It was pretty sustained, getting harder towards the top, after you've passed the escape point. The climbing was technically easy with huge handholds, though they were all polished, this did make them easy to spot! There were staples where you needed them and ladders, and just at the top an interesting bridge!

After this we got to the top, had last night's leftover pizza and went to the last hut we stayed in for a quick drink. Quicker than expected due to the thunder, and the dark skies. An alternate route to yesterday was much better, much kinder on the knees and brought us back to where we got the bus from. The rain however had come in, so probably we were a little slower on the now slippery path, but if it's the law that you get rained on once in a fortnight in the mountains it could be worse!

In the car and off to Arabba and our final three nights booked by Di in a ski apartment. We've had cake, been to the supermarket, are just looking at the book for tomorrow before going out to dinner, after a fabulous day. Life is hard!

Next day was our hardest VF to date, up by the side of the waterfall back up to the Pisciadu hut

It started up this quite wet, slippery section

Then up some really nice rock climbing sections

Great climbing all the way with the sound of the waterfall ever present

Everyone seems to be enjoying it. This is supposed to be the most popular VF in the area but we were lucky, although there were other people around we had plenty of space around us

Oh yes, we'd read about the bridge crossing

There's no need to look down, unless you want to, which we all did!

Even done with a smile

Di's turn

And then Simon, who just wanted to show how easy it is!

Final ascent

And we're back at the Pisciadu hut again, only for a drink this time though before setting off back down again

On our way down we stopped to see a helicopter rescue. You can just see the bridge we came over in that gash between the separate block and the main cliff and, below a red helicopter hovering by the grass down there. Someone had to be rescued, the result was a huge queue up the face and over the bridge. Good job we were clear by then

After an initial steep descent, helped by the occasional wire, we got into the broad, wide valley to head down

However, it started to rain so had to put on the waterproofs. It was the only time we got caught in rain over the whole holiday

Day 12 (20th July) 8km, 1013m ascent, 4 hours. Via ferrata (FALZ2) length: 200m, grade: 1A. See Relive video with map and photos: click here

A fairly gentle start, for what turned out to be a not particularly gentle day. The forecast wasn't brilliant, though has actually been fine, though slightly cooler than previous days. We set off for the half hour drive to 'the tunnels'. Brian will no doubt fill in the historical information about the border between Italy and Austria and the war that was fort on the ledges, tunnels and caves that we explored.

It appeared that lots of people had had the same idea as us about being in tunnels if it was going to rain but by the time we'd had coffee and cake they mostly seemed to have dissipated and we were pretty much on our own as we explored all sorts of books and crannies. We did come across a group of old alpine men with hats and flags. We don't have any idea what was going on, but we suddenly found ourselves amongst a prayer and a playing of the Last Post. It was very poignant and we felt privileged to be there.

Having bumbled around we continued towards the summit, up a slog of a ski slope before an easy path to the top. From here we could see most of what we've done on our days out. We've given a small area a pretty good going over!

Down on the cable car to save Di's knee, not that anyone objected to that at all. Back for showers and dinner before one big last day tomorrow.

Well, here we are for our 'easy day'. We could have got a cable car up to the top of that mountain but, no, we had to walk up! Interestingly, this was on the front line in WW1 when Italian troops were fighting Austrian troops in these mountains. This one has been hollowed out by masses of tunnels, with the Italian troops on the right and Austrian troops on the left. It really brings home the futility of war when you realise hundreds of people died here fighting over this mountain

Here we go into the tunnels

Don't take it from there Di said, it'll be over exposed

This is the start of the Martini ledge, a notorious ledge that gave Italians access to the Austrian enemy. Imagine traversing this carrying a machine gun and being fired on

That's the ledge we've been over

A dining area cut into a cliff face

Another building cut into the cliff that Jackie had to climb into

At this point we came upon these Italians who seemed to be saying this was the extent of the Italian position and, further on the Austrian enemy would have been. They were performing some sort of ceremony and holding, presumably, military flags to commemorate those who died. They all gathered and the guy in the centre recited a speech while the others and us, stood in respectful silence. It concluded with a recording of the last post. Very solemn and a privilege to be there

We continued on into a maze of further tunnels past all sorts of WW1 relics, poked our heads out of lookout openings that would have contained a machine gun. We possibly could have got all the way through to the top, but it was a maze and difficult to follow, so we turned around and retraced our steps down

heading back down to where we'd started

Only to then have an exhausting ascent up, what would be a black ski slope in the winter, past many more tunnels to gain the summit

Our hard work was eventually rewarded with another summit

And fabulous views all round. The building over there is the top of the cable car down. That's where we're going!

Day 13 (21st July) 7km, 425m ascent, 5 hours. Via ferratra (ARAB2) length: 300m, grade: 4B. See Relive video with map and photos: click here

Up bright and early, knowing we couldn't catch first lift as that was at 08.30 which was when the supermarket opened to get our sandwiches, though we were in the queue to get in there when they opened the door. Sandwiches made we were in the lift to the start of VF Delle Trincee grade 4B which is hard for technical aspect (it only goes up to 5) but not too exposed B isn't too scary as it was a ridge not a huge high face. The disadvantage of a ridge is that there is down climbing as well as up climbing which Di really doesn't like.

The start of the route is up a face though, and in this instance is the crux of the whole outing. Start as we mean to go on with lots of deep breaths and hauling on the wire then! We set off as we have every other time, Brian, me Di and Simon. There were two bail out points, the first which took us an hour and a quarter to get to and was after the rickety bridge, would have only taken about 10 minutes to walk back along the path from, but that wasn't on the cards.

We did the whole thing, including 2 lunch stops and the exploration of the tunnels at the end by head torch in about 3.5 hours, which is pretty good going. The walk back took about an hour and a quarter along an easy but mostly rising path was not too bad though we did meet a coach load of a local walking group who didn't want to give an inch as they sauntered down chatting seemingly expecting us to wait till Christmas.

Straight down in the lift and on to our cake shop from the first day in Arabba as Di had wanted an ice-cream sundae and I'd spotted them in the menu on Friday. They were fab, as was hearing the thunder and seeing the lightening. We did manage to get back to the apartment before the rain really started so winning all round. We do wonder whether the coach load were so lucky!

Our hardest VF, Trincee, and here we are approaching the start to see other people on the way up. Its grade 4B and it looks quite hard!

And it is!

Nice view of the Marmolada though

Good climbing all the way

And another wobbly bridge to cross

Lots more exciting climbing to be done

Up this face, past those WW1 relics on that narrow path, round the corner and steeply down on rungs

There they are coming over that bit. I didn't take a photo of the next steep bit down, daren't let go to take my camera out!

Eventually arriving at some more WW1 tunnels

Out the other side and that's the end of the VF, just the long walk back now!

As we walk down there's a working ski lift. What a temptation to get on, but it goes to an entirely different area. Our route is off to the right and a long walk uphill!

On the long walk back. We'd been up there and, if you look carefully (and zoom in) you can see the bridge we came across

We know how to end a day out on the hill!

Day 14 (22nd July) 9km, 35m ascent, 4 hours. See Relive video with map and photos: click here

After our last pizza dinner (and take away for lunch), we had a very gentle start to the day. Into the car to begin our drive back to Verona. We stopped for coffee and croissants and then at a motorway services to eat our pizza, where only mad dogs and English men sat at the tables out in the sun. We were not rushed.

After checking in at the airport hotel we caught the bus in to Verona city. We didn't have much time to see the city so we had a drink and some people watching before a little amble and an early dinner which meant we could get the last bus back to the hotel.

A relaxed end to an active fortnight.