A 'not too shabby' (Simon's words!) two weeks of hiking and via ferratas in the Italian Dolomite mountains - Part 1, 8th to 14th July

Jackie on one of the many Via Ferrata's we did in the Dolomites

We've just got back from an exhausting and very exciting two week hiking and via ferrata trip to the Italian Dolomites with our friends Si and Di, who we met in Vietnam 10 years ago. Keen mountaineers as they are the time was packed with lots of long mountain hiking days, with a liberal scattering of via ferratas, some relatively easy (grade 1A) through to strenuous, difficult and exposed ones at 4B. As mountain huts needed to be booked well in advance, it was left to Di  to book everything as we were away in India on our recent trip. After much frustration on her part she eventually managed to arrange a fabulous itinerary and we took off on 9th July for an amazing two weeks. Here's our day by day account with lots of photos but, as there's lots to talk about and show you, this is part 1 of 2, 8th to 15th July, second part will follow in a day or so:  

Day -1 (8th July)

Turned busy, after packing as little as possible, though it turned into quite a lot, we went to see Denise and Paul as it was Denise's 70th birthday. Lovely cake cooked by Steph.

Then to Abi so she could borrow the car as hers has blown up, then home for dinner and to wait for Simon and Di to arrive, from Harrogate, via Di's mum in Matlock.

Glad they weren't too late, we have an early start tomorrow.

Time to celebrate Brian's sister Denise's 70th birthday with Paul before we left

Day 1 (9th July)

Up at 02.30, yup, coffee before getting to Birmingham airport as bag drop opens for our 7am flight to avoid the horror stories of security queues. We had paid fasttrack security and it actually worked!

Collect the car, a mini, this could be interesting, and off to Corvara. A lovely Airbnb (Villa Olympia) booked (as has everything pretty much) by Di. 

A walk around, ice-cream and beer which is going to be a running theme for our four nights here before pizza, well we are in Italy after all.

Our hire car, a mini clubman, will it be big enough? Well, it was, just, with some luggage between Jackie and Di on the back seat, while Si and Brian shared the driving

On our way!

Stunning views of the mountains through the car window as we drove along

First stop, the Villa Olympia in Corvara, we had a two bedroomed apartment on the first floor with fabulous views of the mountains 

An evening walk round the town and, there behind us, is our next day challenge, the mountain Sassongher, a 2665m peak with our first Via Ferrata as part of the ascent

Day 2 (10th July) 11km, 1087m ascent, 6.5 hours. Via ferrata (CORV3) length: 100m, grade 1A. See Relive video with map and photos: click here

Sassongher peak which is actually what we can see from our balcony, the iconic view of Corvara. Looks most unlikely that you can actually get to the top but you can. It was only a short day so it was 'enhanced' by a 40 minute walk to the lift, rather than going in the car. The lift took us to a nice restaurant, coffee before a gentle walk to the beginning of an easy Via ferrata. We really only clipped in to practice as it wasn't really necessary, but we haven't been here for a few years!

Lovely views, back to the restaurant, more drinks before back down the lift and walk back to the town for ice-cream and eating in.

Why drive to the start when you can walk an extra 40 minutes? Simons photo

First stop, coffee at the restaurant at the top of the ski lift to enjoy the views. Simons photo

Then came the long hike up at altitude. It may not be that high, about 2500m here, but the thinner air makes it much harder

And then came our first, easy via ferrata. You can just see the metal wire and Jackie (centre)  clipped into it with her lanyard 

Lots of very pretty mountain flowers on the way

And the views were stunning all the way. Those mountains over there are the Sella range and, in a few days time we'll be over there standing on most of those peaks, including walking down that huge valley

On the summit, having signed the visitors book. Simons photo

On our way down and cables were placed where it got a bit steep and exposed, but we didn't feel the need to clip in, just use it as a handrail to help us. Simons photo

Still on our way down in spectacular scenery. Simons photo

Day 3 (11th July) 15km, 1022m ascent, 7 hours. Via ferrata (PEDRA3) length: 150m, grade: 1B. See Relive video with map and photos: click here

A longer day, 2 lifts to La Crusc, walked in past people still having breakfast at their hut. 

A long walk up to the beginning of the VF, which was again, relatively easy before arriving at a col, we decided to do one of the peaks, L.Ciaval 2907m not both possible as it was all a bit of a slog. Back to the col and further round to avoid down climbing the VF. This brought us to a horrible scree slope. It wasn't just us that thought this, the guy on his bike didn't look impressed either! This did go on a bit before entering the wood for an 'undulating' (as described in the book) walk back to the lift down to the village.

At the top of La Crusc ski lift ready for our ascent and via ferrata

We had a long, exhausting climb along this path

Ascending the via ferrata section. Fairly easy, but a slip could be nasty so best to clip in

A pause on the way

Before continuing up the long and winding path

Finally we arrived at the col to be presented with our next ascent. The peak to the left at 2907m was our goal. The next peak at 3026m was an option, but by the time we've hauled ourselves onto the first peak, that was enough!

On the way there were good photo opportunities

Stand there Simon, I'll just take a photo (he wouldn't walk to the peak on the right!)

Finally on the summit and Simon signs the visitor book kept in a metal case on the cross

Simon's message

Then there was the small matter of getting back down. Easier on the lungs, worse on the knees!

Having made a long detour to avoid having to go back down the via ferrata, we arrived at the col Forc de Medesc where we were presented with this hugely long scree slope to go down. We'd be back here at this same col two days later, arriving from the opposite direction having done Lavarele peak, but going the other way to a mountain hut

The descent was long, eventually arriving at a dry river bed, from where we joined another long path through trees to get back to the ski lift. A long, but enjoyable day

We'd definitely earned the beer in the evening!

Day 4 (12th July) 

A scheduled rest day, and it rained, so ideally planned by Di. It was nice to potter around the town for coffee and cake. Recce to the lift for parking for our three nights in the mountains, just generally chilling and trying to avoid getting rained on as it did come and go ....

A rest day and time for Jackie to get aquainted with the cats living next door

A walk round a different part of the town on a wet day

And drinks on the balcony at the apartment

Day 5 (13th July) 16km, 1324m ascent, 9 hours. See Relive video with map and photos: click here

Our first mountain hut day,.so with rucksacks packed we said goodbye to our little Airbnb and headed off to Cap Alpine. No lift here so it was all foot power. There were peaks on the left and a VF to the right. That will be tomorrow, looking at the weather.

So, to the left, to a col to decide one, or two peaks?  Again it felt like a slog as we had lunch and decided to just do Lavarella peak (3055m) before walking to the hut in a good circular fashion.

The ascent actually was ok. The descent the other side however was horrible. Snow slopes to cross, down climbing which Di hates, huge drops, a narrow ledge that looked horrendous from above, though by the time we got to it we were overjoyed! This has all been described by Simon as the 'death slope' but we did all survive and live to tell the tale!

We got to the col where we had started our scree descent the other day but turned in the opposite direction across the limestone pavements. As it was getting later in the day and the people had gone down, the marmots had come out so we had to stop and take many photos. A bit of a stiff march got us to the Lavarella hut by 17.30 and beer. It didn't feel like a real hut, you could get there by road, so food and drink was much more available.

Rooms however hadn't been quite as convenient when Di had booked, 3 of us were in one room while Si was in a dorm for 5!

Getting ready at Cap. Alpina for our first overnight in the mountains. The car stayed in this car park for two days

Heading off on the long walk into the mountains

Decision point. Straight on leads to the Lavarella hut, our stop for the night and the hike to a via ferrata, left leads to a col, short via ferrata and Lavarela summit. We headed to the col

Lucky for us, Di knew what an Eidelweis looked like - and here it is. Di took a much better photo, but I just can't find it now. This is my slightly out of focus effort

After another long pull up we arrived at this little lake, Le de Conturines. The col is up there behind us, to the left is a short VF and up right is our target of Lavarela peak at 3055m. We abandoned the idea of the short VF and went straight up to the peak so we could continue on and round to the hut. Little did we know that continuation was an unprotected goat path with massively exposed downclimbs, snow slopes to cross and narrow paths with huge drops...

Continuing up and looking back at that little lake

Past the col and on the ascent to Lavarela peak. This was the easier part!

Heading up to the summit

There's the peak just coming into view

A quick pause, sign the visitors book and then the 'death slope' down to the col

There it is down there. You might just see a narrow path halfway down that slope and the col is down there by where the scree slope starts on the left 

Just downclimb that bit, you'll be fine!

I got shouted at very loudly by Jackie at this point for taking this. I'd cut those steps across that snow slope and the others were following. It was an exposed snow slope with a big dropoff and in the heat of the afternoon where snow could just shear off. No-one was happy!

Picking our way down towards the col. To the left you can see the big scree slope and the snaking path we'd descended a couple of days before. This path is marked on the Tabacco 07 map but it's shown with two red dots, a gap and then two red dots again, rather than continuous red dots. Continuous red dots means 'difficult signposted path'. Intermittent red dots isn't described in the key, but you can imagine! Pity we didn't read that first!

We made it to the col and headed off on a better path towards the Lavarella hut for the night and, in the afternoon sun marmots were enjoying the warmth

Very cute little things they are

Descent down towards the Lavarella hut. It's down there near that lake

Relieved to finally arrive at our hut for the night after a very long, exciting day

Day 6 (14th July) 19km, 1000m ascent, 9 hours. Via ferrata (PEDRA5) length: 300m, grade: 2C. See Relive video with map and photos: click here

Walked out past the cows that had been clanking all night and marmots lounging in the sun to a bigger VF. Still involved a lot of up before hitting the peak at 2791m. This was a much bigger and better VF, it's amazing how quickly you ascend with ladders and a wire to help you go straight up. Two sections of ladders on the way down also help the descent go quicker. 

Once back on the path though it was still a long, long way out though we did get a move on. We expected to be out at 18.00 but hit the car (which was still there, without a ticket and with all our stuff in) at 17.10 The alpine meadows were beautiful but we just didn't have time to enjoy them, and I'm not sure there are even pictures.

To a B and B (Piz Alpin BnB) where we appeared to be the only people staying, and the lovely Luca. Such a kind man, bus ticket, honesty bar and yes, you can leave your car in my spaces for the 4 days you are in the mountains before you come back to me.

Up and away the next day we head off for our next adventure

More marmots enjoying the morning sun

This photo didn't work out as well as I'd hoped, the sun got in the way

Consulting the map, its up this path and round to the left of that mountain

Round here...

Up the via ferrata, which includes several ladders

And finally up the the summit where someone had made a bench from an old axle

We'd read there was another VF on the way down so kept our harnesses on, which was just as well as it was quite exposed

We had descended that angled slit in the cliff face via several ladders, you might just be able to see some other people on it. The path leading to it was amongst those ledges above along exposed paths

This was the last ladder on that section. From here is was a very long walk out back to the car

However after a drive back to Colfosco and the Piz Alpin BnB and the lovely Luca, we were rewarded with comfortable rooms and beers on an outdoor terrace with a view. We'll be in those mountains tomorrow and be coming down that valley in a few days. But, for now, relax! 

End  of part one. Tomorrow we head into the Sella mountain range for our four days, three hut nights and more adventures. We'll post that in a day or so......