Canada - days 16 to 21 - Ucluelet to Whitehorse

Interesting boardwalk through the Pacific Rim NP Rainforest Trail. Unfortunately it had many more stairs than we thought, that wasn't good for a broken ankle!

Day 16 Tuesday

We went out to breakfast at a restaurant owned by friends of our Airbnb owners in Campbell River. Breakfasts are not small here. They really do last you all day.

Then finally went to the visitor centre to buy a day pass for the park. We had been debating an annual one, but I've obviously made that pointless. The ranger had recommended a couple of boardwalks among the huge, old trees. We only managed one, as yes, it was a boardwalk, but it had lots and lots of steps up and down. That had not been part of the plan.

Looking up the biggest tree. They are so straight and such a hard wood it's not surprising so many were cut down for shipbuilding and houses. These old trees are now protected

We then went to a big museum at the Kwisitis Visitor Centre, which was interesting enough. We did stop in the parking lot of the bog walk, but I decided perhaps it would be too much, and our pass was valid for half of tomorrow too, so we'd leave it till then.

The view from the museum at the Kwisitis centre

I thought that was going to be it, but someone had suggested the radar station, so we drove back through most of the park to drive up a big hill with an amazing view point at the top.

We saw this bald eagle being harassed by a crow. It wouldn't let up. The bald eagle flew into a nearby tree but the crow still kept on, trying to swoop in on the eagle hoping to dislodge it

Day 17 Wednesday 

Back to do the bog walk, which was not very different from the one in Ucluelet. The main attraction for us was the sign warning of bear in the area. We didn't see it! We were stopped by a couple who asked us if we'd seen the carnivorous plants, which up until that point I hadn't there. While Brian was showing them a picture of what they were looking for I did manage to find a sundew for them, so they were happy.

The view from the top of Radar Hill in the park, so named as there was a radar station here during WWII

The highlight of the day was to be the zodiac trip to see black bears. We'd been down the previous day, just to check that I could wear the attractive red suit, and that I could get into the zodiac. The answer was yes to both so that was fine.

The bog walk was interesting in that all the trees were very short due to the acid in the soil. The trees are still very old, but just short. The interest was added to in that there had been sightings of a black bear that was less afraid of humans, but we didn't see it. The sign also said wolves were in the area too. Apparently you don't make eye contact with a bear if you see one, but you do make deliberate eye contact with a wolf

We got chatting while we were waiting with a British couple, who used to live on the Island. She was a wealth of information about the boot, she's had to have one three times! I snuck in and got changed first so was second in line down the jetty. The girls who were first were determined to be, and were the cousins of our captain, Fred, so I was happy to let them. 

Also saw this American Robin on the bog walk

Fred actually suggested I sit at the back as there is less boat movement there, and that made sense, bearing in mind the wind that had been up for the last couple of days. This turned out to be a great decision, we had the whole of the seat which he was happy for me to sit on the back of so we had a great view. I just wasn't chief spotter! 

Kitted up and waiting to board our zodiac. The two girls were determined to get the front seat, we weren't bothered, it was more important for Jackie to be comfy

The cabin cruiser was also out, trying to catch up on the cancelled trips, but he wasn't as keen to show his guests as good a time as Fred was his cousin's. We seemed to get to all 5 bears first, and spend longer with them, at which point he turned for home and we went to one more spot. The mum and 6 month old cubs definitely made this worthwhile! I didn't think we could equal our Grizzly spotting, but we did!

Ready for the off

Back via the hot soup section of the supermarket where they had chicken vindaloo (which wasn't that hot) and rice for takeaway. Great end to the day.

We went to a group of islands called the broken group as there are something like a hundred small islands clustered together, most of them uninhabited. It's in Barkley Sound, just across from Ucluelet and is very beautiful

Day 18 Thursday 

We'd dithered about this day, but in the end we decided to take it easy. I can't work out if the bruising on my ankle is from the incident or if I've had the boot too tight.

This was the cruiser, the one we'd been on our our previous whale watching trip. They headed off in one direction, us in another as we were much more nimble and faster. I missed photos of the whales we saw, one diving and throwing it's tail in the air, I just wasn't quick enough

We went back to the lighthouse loop where I sat and looked for Orca as we'd seen them on Sunday, while Brian went and walked the loop. We started on another trail we hadn't been on, but it seemed very steep, so I decided no. We've seen lots of big trees.

We'd had a few false alarms for bears, Fred took us to some of his usual spots, but no bears were there. He told us afterwards he was starting to get a bit worried, but he knew all the spots and sped off somewhere else. Finally he found one and then many others afterwards. Here's a mum trotting on the rocks in the evening sun

Fish and chips for tea. I thought we'd have had loads of seafood on the island, but we've done most of our own meals. This had been my plan after the boat, but it had shut at 18.30 so we'd missed it. Funny place, the food is cooked in a truck, which you can either sit outside of, but they do have an indoors where you think they'd cook! Anyway, good fish and chips! Ice-cream on the way back and then only the second sighting of the cat, just in time to say goodbye to.

Here was number two on a different island. He or she is looking a bit mean, you wouldn't want to come across one in a forest. They can run at up to 45kmph, faster than humans, they can climb trees and they can swim. Never run from a bear and try to escape, you will lose! Make lots of noise when walking as they will try to avoid confrontation, but if confronted, stand your ground, talk calmly and, if it approaches, wave arms and look big, continuing to talk to it

Day 19 Friday 

A long day. I wanted to leave at 08.00, though we didn't make it away till 08.30, that was still ok. Including stops, just over 5 hours to the airport in Victoria. 

I was quite pleased with myself here as I spotted this bear on an island first, even before the expert spotters in the front. I was certain it was one as I'd seen movement and it was sometime before others saw it and someway in towards it. Very unusual for me

Drop the car off and drop the bags off. I'd booked airport assistance, not really for Victoria airport, but more in case we were late and had a short turnaround in Vancouver. The lovely lady did it for all the flights though, including the one to Calgary nearly 3 weeks away which I really hope won't be necessary. She did also assign us seats  for all the flights which was very good of her.

Bears have big claws. It's a bit blurred as the boat was bobbing about in the water

I did feel like a fraud though, pushed through the airport in a wheelchair. Boarded first, on a half full and little bit late plane, for a half hour flight. Perhaps it was a good thing after all. Wait for everyone else to get off and make my way to the cabin door and there's a wheelchair waiting. Up the ramp, and to the next gate! It probably wasn't necessary after all!

And then a mum with her two baby cubs. Fred thought they'd only been born this year

Again boarded first, a few more people on this flight but still by no means full. Only 2 hours, but soft drinks, a small meal, warm cookie and sweetie, all brought round separately. Not bad for a short flight!

Long wait for bags once we arrived in Whitehorse, but at least they were there. Short taxi to the hotel, which is a bit tired. Once I sent Brian off to get me a pillow for my leg, some soap and a second coffee cup though it's probably ok.

Getting him to go to bed was difficult though, it's nearly 23.00 and still light!

I was sad this photo wasn't sharper, but doesn't this little cub look cute!

Day 20 Saturday 

Quite a bit of walking, breakfast, the visitor centre who was lovely. She suggested we do the whole trip the other way round so we are driving towards the mountains rather than having them behind us! She also gave us lots of other information, that he's currently going through, and that if we get back to Whitehorse early there are another couple of places to go, in the opposite direction which certainly takes the pressure off trying to work out how long to stay in places.

Mum looking very intently into the water

Walking to the museum met a lady with a dog and had a really long chat with her. She suggested some stuff, and somewhere to stay on our third leg. People do just seem really friendly and helpful. Good museum before trying to find a thrift store. The trousers I can wear easily are not necessarily the warmest ones, so I wanted something I could possibly butcher, but we couldn't find one that she mentioned and one had closed down. Oh well, I'm sure I'll cope!

Quick stop in at the glass blowing place, again, a really nice chat with one of the blowers. People do seem really nice.

This is a map showing the broken islands in Barkley Sound. Ucluelet is left into the channel and the blue is the Pacific, next stop, Japan!

Day 21 Sunday 

Another huge breakfast before going back to the visitor centre to watch the bear safety video. Very interesting, you can get charged by an aggressive bear or a defensive bear and you react differently to each, assuming you can tell the difference. One you back away slowly, and if you are knocked to the floor you just play dead. The other.... You fight for your life! I think we have to assume we won't be doing any long hikes anyway!

Jackie being pushed in a wheelchair onto our flight by a very nice man

I then watched another couple of videos, one mostly on the SS Klondike, while Brian walked down to look at the SS Klondike. It's being repaired, so is shut for two years, I'd have made more of an effort if we could have gone round.

The view through our hotel window in Whitehorse at 11:00pm. It's dark here for about three hours only

Decided to buy a Canadian SIM card, it won't work where there is no coverage, but is more likely to grab a signal than what we already had, and at least I'll be able to ring campsites, sometimes, to book ahead. The first shop actually gave us the SIM card, but couldn't get us connected as due to a power outage yesterday, the tech shop had no tech. He sent us up the other end of town, which I walked much faster than I have been doing, so that's good. Glad we did it that way though, as the man in that shop couldn't make the SIM card we'd been given work, but sold us one which he could. It would have been very frustrating if we'd tried to do that on our own!

Walking through Whitehorse next to the Yukon river. During the goldrush days of the 1890's the only way to get around this mountaineous country was by river and they don't come bigger round here than the Yukon, which flows through here, north to Dawson City, right through Alaska and empties into the Bering Sea. Paddle steamers used to ply this river to ferry people and supplies up to Dawson City and, before a dam was built just upstream, the river here was dangerous rapids, with lots of white waves and whirlpools, hence the name of the town, Whitehorse. An enterprising individual built this railway so people could offload their cargos and people to avoid the rapids, reloading to continue the journey. It was only one set of many rapids on the way leading to many deaths. A road was only built here during WWII by the US to counter the threat of a Japanese invasion, the Alaska-Canada Highway, now known as the Alcan Highway. We're going on that tomorrow 

Next door was a clothes shop, so I now have a fairly hideous pair of joggers, but at least they will go over the boot, and I can get my thermals underneath, so I can be warm. Having said that daytime temperatures are meant to be going up, maybe to 18 ish, but overnight may still be zero!

So we feel we've achieved quite a lot today, plus we are probably going to stay at a local campsite tomorrow as I'm probably going to attempt to get an x-ray. Dr. Kim said in a fortnight, but it's either going to be a week or three weeks, so although I think it's doing ok, it might be worth the effort. Two independent people have warned us how long it might take though!

Lots of stuffed animals in the museum, all indigenous to these parts and most will kill you!

My little walk today to visit the SS Klondike II, one of the only remaining paddle steamers that used to ply the Whitehorse-Dawson City stretch of the Yukon river. You can't get inside at the moment, it's being renovated, expected to take until 2029

Most of her sister ships were wrecked on the journey downriver during stormy weather

But somehow this old girl survived

Its an impressive paddle

The Yukon today, still with quite a flow, but tamed by the dam just up round the bend

A couple of other sights in the town, these are log cabins stacked on top of each other, known as the log skyscraper

The first church built in the city, made of logs. It opened in 1900

Canada - days 12 to 15 Campbell River to Ucluelet

Goats on the roof! There were two although you can only see one here. I did get a photo of the two, but it's not as good as this one

Day 12 Friday 

We left our lovely Airbnb for another 3 1/2 hour drive across the island. It started off well as we passed a black bear just by the side of the road, so close, but by the time Brian had managed to get the camera out of its little pouch on his belt it had gone.

We had a few stops en route again, firstly at Coombs market, which everyone knows as goats on the roof, because they have goats on the roof! It's an obvious place to stop, and they've made it well worthwhile. We had a drink and bought some snacks for lunch.

Little Qualicum Falls. Yes, they're waterfalls, but very pretty and a nice walk through an old growth forest

Next stop was Little Qualicum falls provincial park, which was a nice little loop walk over the river with some good waterfalls. We followed this with a stop at Cathedral grove for some big trees. 

Cathedral Grove. Big trees!

This was slightly harder as there was no real carpark, so if you couldn't fit into the small bit of parking by the side of the road you were out of luck. We thought we were going to be unlucky, but finally someone left and we snuck in. A couple of short walks and our sausage roll and Cornish pasty and we were ready to continue to Ucluelet. 

Looking up at the biggest tree. We'd seen other people doing this so we thought we would too. It's a very tall tree and very straight

The towns of Ucluelet and Tofino, are about half an hour apart, on the coast with the Pacific rim National park, between them. Tofino is the more expensive, we were staying in Ucluelet, which is smaller, but I think actually has a nicer feeling to it. We stopped at the visitor centre for advice, and got lots.

We've got a hot tub in this Airbnb!

We continued to our Airbnb, which isn't as nice as the last one, but is absolutely fine. We were just spoiled. Brian wanted a beer, I guess he deserved it, so we went to the local bar which had mixed reviews. We had no problem though, except, as ever, the weakest beer is 5%. 

After a long drive I needed some of these. It was worth waiting for even though they were only USA 16oz pints, not our UK 20oz pints

If we were going to have two, we'd better have a burger too. We had a great view over a small marina, though no animals to see. A guy came in from fishing, washed his boat down and vanished off somewhere. We then watched a dog come walking down the jetty and thought perhaps there was a dog in the boat. But no, as the dog got closer the big otter jumped out, over the side.

Next day on our whale watching boat trip. First sight was a seal while we were still in the harbour

When the man came back the dog did lots of barking, which he obviously wasn't very impressed with. After eating we went to have a look and told him that the dog was trying to tell him that he'd chased an otter out of his boat. He was quite disturbed it'd been in the boat, though fortunately there was no sign of it on his bed!

Look at these cute sea otters. We're told that if you get too close they'd go for you

Day 13 Saturday 

We went to have a look at Ucluelet and book a whale spotting trip. Jamie's has good reviews, but I'm sure they are all as good. Wandering around the town I managed to twist my ankle on a small bit of damage on the road. Jolly painful, but I still seemed to be able to walk, though didn't want to do much. Gave it a rest, before going to the supermarket, with pharmacy where we bought dinners, an ankle support and voltarol. It's ok, we've got a week here.

They look so chilled out floating on their backs. They were hunted almost to extinction in the mid 20th century for their fur. It's so thick that, we're told, if you put a finger on it's fur, there would be more follicles under that finger than on the whole of a human head

Day 14 Sunday 

I hobbled to the boat for our 10.00 trip. We'd decided on the cabin cruiser rather than the zodiac, which felt like a mistake as I didn't really want to move around the boat. Fortunately I'd managed to get the front seat inside, so it could have been worse. I left going out to the others.

The telltale sign of a whale, a jet of water

We had quite a good score, grey whales, humpback whales, California sea lions and Stellar sea lions, seals and cute little sea otters. They do look lovely, but can be very fierce apparently.

A humpback whale makes an appearance as it dives. This will usually be followed by it's tail in the air as it dives down. I'd got my camera on continuous shooting in the hope I'd get it...

There was a cute little Sunday market when we got back so had a hobble round that, before going back to the house. We picked up the car and drove to the loop around the lighthouse at the end of town. It's only 3 km, with a short half and a long half. I managed the 0.5km section from the car park to the lighthouse and visitor centre where we joined everyone else spotting orca way out in the distance. We continued with the even shorter bog trail which had some interesting sundew, carnivorous plants, growing, so that was good.

And I did...

Day 15 Monday 

My ankle felt much better, but looked more colourful. It was raining, as forecast, so after speaking to the travel insurance we decided to go to Tofino to the hospital. Only because the Yukon, where we are heading on Friday is even more remote than here.

The service at the little hospital was amazing, very quick triage and then x-ray, and then the bad news. There is a fracture on my fibula, low down fortunately, or it would probably have been an operation, but really not what you want to hear. I'm now wearing an inflatable boot, which once I refitted it, after the nurse had made it jolly painful, does seem to make walking easier. I've got to wear it for a fortnight, before trying to wean myself off it!

Several times as it went down (I deserved it, I'd missed quite a few, not being ready, not in go us or not quite in the frame)

And this is why travel insurance for the US and Canada is so expensive $1015  to go into the hospital, $340 to see a doctor, $170 for the boot and probably about $100 for the x-rays!

The big selling point for this Airbnb I think is the hot tub, which normally wouldn't do it for us, but things are not quite normal, so Brian went out for a run and we both went in. It was very hot!

Seals on a rock. There's more than one type here, possibly Californian and Stellar

Pizza for dinner, but seemed unable to order online, or even by phone, so Brian walked the 5 minutes to order and collect later. He opened the door to leave and found a cat on the doorstep. As you can imagine this made me very happy she came in, sat on the sofa next to me and purred. Came and went with the crossword, with Brian going to collect the pizza and finally went as we ate. How did she know that I needed some furry fuss?

I'm putting this on just because! I had the camera on continuous shoot as fish were jumping out of the water. We thought they might be being chased to the surface from underneath by a humpback and it might explode through the surface in a breach, which they can do, so I was shooting just in case. Not this time though and this was my best jumping fish photo

Did get this bald eagle sitting majestically in a tree looking for his lunch

Had a walk round the Sunday market in Ucluelet after our whale trip. The man at the top of the stairs is playing a guitar and singing songs. All very pleasant

Had a stroll round part of the lighthouse headland walk with hop-a-long. She was struggling somewhat and we must have looked like a couple of 90 year olds shuffling along

Stopped at this rocky headland here. There's a bell on a buoy you might just be able to make out. It's a haunting ringing as it moves in the waves, there to alert shipping to the dangerous rocks. A noticeboard told us of a shipwreck of the Pass of Melfort, a British four masted barque built of steel. It hit these rocks on December 26th 1905 after being swept here in a storm. It sank overnight with all hands, thought to be 27 people. Next day only three bodies and some splintered wreckage was all that remained. Just one of hundreds of shipwrecks along this coast giving it the name of the Graveyard of the Pacific.

We took another short walk along a path through a boggy area. It was quite interesting, the mosses and plants are amazing sources of life and microcosms. This is a Sundew, a carnivorous plant. It's little sticky tentacles trap passing insects, which it then wraps up and slowly consumes

My good old camera produces the results again set on its macro setting. You can see this Sundew has caught an ant and has it's tentacles wrapped tightly round it. I think I might actually feel a bit sorry for the ant. What a way to go - a horrible slow death!

So here's Jackie's ankle the day after she badly twisted it. Its got to look even worse now, clearly not good

After phoning our travel insurance company and getting authorisation we went to the local hospital in Tofino, half hour drive away. Its not a big hospital, about the size of a large gp surgery in the UK. There's no reciprocal medical arrangements with the UK, we have to pay up front and claim it back later (hopefully!). In case you can't read it, just to get into the treatment room you pay CA$1015 and then CA$340 to see a physician, that works out at £740 plus any treatment. We came out with a bill of nearly £900, which we should get back. The notice on the left is for uninsured residents which is still CA$484. Don't get ill in Canada unless you've got insurance!

After an X-Ray we can see the problem, a fracture at the end of her Fibula. It's the long thin bone on the right and, at the bottom a thin horizontal line showing the fracture, such was the twist of her foot as she fell. Not shown on here are the torn ligaments that will have occurred as well. 8 weeks recovery they said. Oh dear, that'll alter our plans somewhat! No wonder it was so painful

Now she has this delightful boot to wear for at least two weeks

Help is at hand though. I opened the door to go and get a takeaway pizza for dinner and a therapy cat appeared, wandered in and lay down next to Jackie

Very happy and content it was, just the thing to make Jackie feel a bit better