The Ridgeway Trail, Britain's oldest road - My adventure!

At the start on a sunny Monday morning

Last Saturday (9th October 2021) I completed the Ridgeway Trail in southern central England, from near Avebury in Wiltshire to Ivinghoe Beacon in Buckinghamshire. It took me six days, I walked 151km (94 miles), had 2243m of ascent and I was moving for a total of 37 hours 26 minutes. Athletes reading this will sneer and, in fact, a friend of mine, used to amazing running feats like running Offa's Dyke in two days (not consecutive days I add), described my attempt as resembling a pub crawl! I, however, at 66 years of age and never an athlete, was delighted to have done it and felt a great sense of achievement. Walking at my own pace (relatively slow) without pressure from others, feeling the fresh air, listening to the sounds of the birds and countryside and then, when aching feet and limbs told me I should have stopped hours ago, plugging in the headphones and listening to podcasts of interesting subjects or uplifting music and just 'getting on with it'. Travelling on my own using my own feet to cover large distances was liberating, exciting, healthy and, above all I thoroughly enjoyed it. But beware, it's addictive, I want to do more and am already starting to plan the next one, the West Highland Way from Glasgow to Fort William in Scotland is in my sights!

Here's an interactive map showing the route:

Some say I ramble on and write too much and, maybe they're right but, if you're interested or thinking of doing it, this is my story:

Countryside from the Ridgeway

Why did I want to do it is always a first question and the answer is probably the same as when people ask 'Why climb mountains?' and that is 'if you have to ask the question, you won't understand the answer'. It's just a great feeling and sense of achievement, it's good for the soul, it's healthy and it makes us appreciate the world around us, unhurried, natural. Appreciative of nature, watch the squirrel leap from tree to tree, collecting nuts, the Red Kite cruising above looking for it's lunch, the beetle scurrrying by, the stream rushing on its way to the sea, the fallen tree gently decaying to earth, the farmer tending his crops or herds and the views - the views are amazing and the history! This trail passes through some fascinating prehistoric sites, small deviations to see them are amply rewarded. The sudden noise when passing over, under or across major roads, the M4, M40, A34 and A41 brings back into sharp focus the rushed pressure of modern society, but then, just as quickly the noise fades and it's back to the serene quiet, the rustle of leaves and the singing of the birds. Nature just gently gets on with it while humans rush about! 

The White Horse at Hackpen. It's upside down in this photo, we're looking at it's head with ears closest to us and it's nose up right and neck and body off up left

The hill and ditch defenses of Barbury hillfort

I have a bit of a history of long walks having done things like the Welsh Three Thousands (all 14 3000 foot peaks in Wales, finishing on Snowdon) in a very long day, the Three Peaks of England, Scotland and Wales in 24 hours, the Yorkshire Three Peaks, the energy sapping Black Cuillin Ridge of Skye, requiring rock climbing and confident, airy scrambling on massively exposed ridges all in another very long day. The most recent I did was the 100km South Downs Way in 30 hours, raising funds for Oxfam, that was nine years ago. Since then I've been trying to persuade Jackie that she would really enjoy a multi day trek and, although we've both done multi day treks in Nepal: Mera Peak and a multi day 'Service Trek' delivering medical and school supplies to remote Himalayan villages, plus several others in Thailand and backpacked in many places around the world, she was not to be convinced. So, if I'm going to do any before I'm too old, I'd better get on and start planning. 

Not so clear in this photo but this is from one of the hill defences and they are circular bending off into the distance

The Ridgeway was appealing as the ascent is not too great, the distance not too long and, although many sections feel quite remote, it's never too far from civilisation and a comfy bed and nice restaurant or cafe can always be found.

Time for a selfie!

Although we both walk very often, for quite long distances and, usually at quite a pace, I did wonder if I'd still be able to walk 19 miles in a day, particularly as I would need to have walked a similar distance the day before and would need to the next day too so, I needed to prove it to myself. A few weeks ago we were housesitting in St Albans and, after walking 12 miles round London the previous day with some friends from the USA we met up with, I set off on a 19 mile walk along an old railway track, now a tarmaced cycleway, between St Albans and Hatfield. The  distance was only about 5 miles, so I walked there, most of the way back, then turned round and walked back again and then home. 19 miles, less than 6 hours. A bit boring, yes, I was tired, but the next day I felt I could have done it again. I didn't, but I could have so, on that basis I went onto the internet and booked the five nights of accommodation I'd need and ordered the Harveys Ridgeway Trail map. That shows the whole route with the Ridgeway clearly highlighted, all to 40,000:1 scale, which was adequate. With compass, Maps.me on my phone to pinpoint exactly where I was all set.

Thatched cottages in Ogbourne St George

'Start it on a Monday', Jackie said, 'that way you'll finish on Ivinghoe Beacon on Saturday'. As Ivinghoe Beacon is not far from where her brother, his wife and her niece and nephew Caroline and Charles live (except that Charles is now at university). 'I'll drop you off at the start' she said 'drive up to the Midlands to stay with mum for the week, and then we'll drive down on Saturday to pick you up and have a family meal together'. No 'get out' then, 'I'll start so I'll finish'! I just made sure I had my bus pass with me (yes, I'm a pensioner!), cards and some cash, just in case. 

Maps along the way

We had a lovely day in historic Avebury on Sunday and a nice evening and night in the Castle and Ball inn in Marlborough and on Monday morning armed with my snacks, first day's lunch, two litres of water, waterproofs, spare clothing, spare trainers and a first aid kit we arrived at the car park at the start near Avebury in bright sunshine. It was 10:00am, the sky was blue, the sun shining, Jackie took my photo next to the signpost pointing to Ivinghoe Beacon 139km (87 miles) away, I started walking and she drove off. This is it, set a steady pace and enjoy....

Lovely views all the way

There were very few other people about on this bright October day so it was peaceful, a little wet and muddy underfoot from recent rain (and likely to get wetter if the weather forecast is right) and it was easy uphill onto the ridge where fabulous views accompanied me for most of the way. A brief detour and stop at the prehistoric White Horse cut into the hillside at Hackpen, up though the ancient remains of Barbury Castle hillfort and then gently down into the pretty village of Ogbourne St George where I'd booked a room at the Wynfield B&B. Actually I'd originally booked a room at The Sanctuary, but due

Over the very noisy M4 motorway

to me originally giving the wrong date they couldn't fit me in so arranged with Helen for me to stay there. She only does casual bookings and doesn't want her B&B advertised, so you won't find any reference to it anywhere. It's just a room in a house, but it's comfortable and Helen is very welcoming, providing me with a cooked evening meal, fabulous cooked breakfast and lunch the next day. It rained a little as I approached the village so waterproofs were donned and I arrived a little wet, but not too bad. Day 1 complete, 18.36km (11.41 miles), 240m of ascent, walking time 4 hours, 46 minutes, legs and feet aching (see short Relive video showing route plus photos: click here). The slightly disheartening thing was the map on the wall at the end of my bed. On it I could see where I'd walked, but I could also see how far I had to go the next day. It was improbably further than I'd done that day, am I going to be able to do this? Have I bitten off more than I can chew? Just turn the light off, don't look at it and try to get to sleep...

One of the quite frequent water taps (marked on the map)

Day 2, Ogbourne St George to Letcombe Regis, the longest walk. To make it worse, Letcombe Regis, my destination for that night, is downhill off the ridge to a village 1.6 miles off the trail and steeply downhill that evening means steeply back uphill at the start of the next day! It was a total of 32.09km (19.94 miles) with 414m of ascent and it took me 8 hours and 8 minutes (see short Relive video showing route plus photos: click here). Originally the weather forecast for Tuesday was high winds, lots of rain and low temperatures, but it turned out much better than that, quite high winds but only 5 minutes of rain and actually a bit of sun too. The views were again amazing and more prehistoric sights to see, Weylands Smithy and the White Horse and Uffington Castle, however, there was a short section along the side of a fairly busy  road with no footpath and a bridge over the M4 to negotiate first. Glad I had the map for that section as it was not fully signposted (it also felt a bit unsafe with the traffic passing so close), but it was fairly short and I was soon back on traffic free trails again. I had an Airbnb booked in Letcombe Regis (link here) which was a separate 'Granny annex' type place in their back garden. Fabulous place it was, spa bath and all mod cons. Michelle, the owner, got me bread, ham and cheese to make lunch the next day (I made three days worth!) and a 'ready meal' to heat up in the microwave for the evening as the only local pub was closed. Together with the huge quantities of fruit, yoghurts, bread for toast, croissants, cereals etc, I left full and amply prepared for another epic day.

The 5000 year old Wayland's Smithy burial mound

Uffington Castle behind the summit cairn

Day 3: Letcome Regis to Goring and it started with that steep uphill walk to get back up onto the ridge. Weather forecast much better, no rain, weakening wind, warmer and some sunshine, so I decided to walk in my trainers today as they might be a bit more comfortable. I got back up onto the ridge in the sunshine, felt great, happy and headed off enjoying the amazing views. It went well, but by afternoon my legs, feet and shoulders were aching so I put the headphones in and got on with it. Not far from Goring I could feel a small stone in my shoe so I stopped to remove it. I walked a few further paces and felt something in the side near my heel. I removed the trainer again and realised the lining had broken down and had rubbed a blister on my foot. They were old trainers, perhaps it wasn't such a good idea to walk in them after all! I changed back to my walking shoes and carried on, but I was to feel that blister for the remainder of the walk. There's a lesson to learn there! So the days total: 27.85km (17.31 miles), 305m of ascent, 7 hours and 9 minutes (See short Relive video of route with photos: click here). Goring accommodation was another Airbnb (link here) and was a room in Frances' house. An older lady, she has travelled a lot and I could have talked to her for hours. She made my stay there fabulous! Evening meal was at an Indian restaurant Frances recommended and booked for me and her cooked breakfast the next day was amazing. Talking with her for too long it was 9:25am before I left! I had lunch already, made the previous day, the sun was shining, it was warm and I felt just great, apart from the blister, now protected by a Compeed patch. 

Hopefully you can just see part of the Uffington White Horse cut into the hillside there. It's difficult to photograph easily, better from the air! As I took this photo I could see a big rain cloud rolling in and just had time to get my waterproof on!

A panorama of the same with the rain cloud coming in

Day 4: I'm over halfway now and have turned the page on my Harvey Ridgeway map! Goring to Watlington and my stay in a Glamping tent on a campsite by the side of the trail, so no deviation necessary. A walk initially alongside the River Thames and very nice riverside properties and expensive boats. Lots of ducks and geese to watch going about their daily business along with owners taking their dogs for morning walks and the odd jogger any cyclist going past. Then it was inland into the fascinating Grim's Ditch, a 3.6 mile long dead straight

Further on and look at that sheep climbing the tree to eat

ditch that no-one seems to really know the origin of. Wooded and interesting all the way, it emerged up and over some hills and eventually onto a ridge to Watlington and to White Mark Farm and my glamping tent (link here). They had phoned earlier to tell me they won't be there (it's low season) now and told me how to find my tent with a king sized bed and log burning stove, had left a fabulous lunch for me for the next day and information on how to arrange delivery of an Indian meal for the evening and a local cafe who would deliver breakfast the next day (extra charge for those). I was the only one in all the 6 tents, the evening was still, warm and fairly clear and there was a telescope in my tent. Sitting outside I saw a shooting star and, as it got dark and cooler I retreated to bed to read by torchlight. I felt tired, achy and had a headache. I thought about getting an Indian meal delivered but I'd had one of those the previous night, I thought about walking the half mile into town to eat but, in the end I ate the last portion of sandwiches I'd made the previous day, gorged on snacks and chocolate bars and washed it down with water, as that's all I had. I could have gone to the kitchen to make a cup of tea, but that was a walk away and I just couldn't be bothered. I'd done 25.03km (15.55 miles) that day with 394m of ascent and it had taken me a slow 6 hours and 20 minutes (see short Relive video showing route and photos: click here). I was feeling pretty low then, very achy and blisters a bit sore but after posting my days route on Facebook and noting how I felt I got amazing encouraging messages from lots of friends and that was just what I needed. I read a bit, listened to some podcasts and a bit of music and fell asleep.

One of the many Ridgeway signpost making navigation very easy  (except for the odd point where a map was useful)

Thatched cottages in Letcombe Regis

Day 5: Big headache this morning, drink lots to try and get rid of it. Breakfast was delivered, I ate it outside in the morning sunshine and thoroughly enjoyed the cup of tea, so welcome after nothing but water for more than a day! Headache easing I set off again, throwing my old trainers that had caused my blister into the bin (very satisfying!). Another slow day for me, 28.55km (17.74 miles), 564m of ascent (the most in a day), taking me 8 hours and 7 minutes (see short Relive video of route with photos: click here). Limbs, shoulders and feet aching during the afternoon, but the ascent meant getting up on top of some hills with great views. Past some old quarries with turquoise blue waters, dangerously steep sides with barbed wire fences saying 'keep out - danger', through the outskirts of Princes Risborough and up onto Pulpit Hill

The signpost says I'm halfway there!

with amazing views over the countryside. Onwards down past Chequers, our Prime Ministers country retreat. You could see it at a distance but the security cameras everywhere ensured you did just that, keep you distance! Up through the trees to the top of Coombe Hill and more fabulous vistas over the surrounding countryside. Any place is a good place to stop and sit now to ease pressure on the feet so the monument on top was a good place to do just that and have a few snacks. It was then just a short walk down into my final Airbnb night in Wendover (link here). Nice town Wendover is and my accommodation was a short walk from the trail, but Ginny, my host had a bad cold (not Covid she said), so kept her distance and didn't want to provide breakfast (I didn't want her to either). I dropped my bags, had a quick shower (it was after 5:00pm when I arrived and it was Friday night, so it's going to be busy in town) and was out to the George and Dragon pub for a fabulous Thai meal, recommended by Ginny. I was there at 6:15pm so had the restaurant to myself at first, although it soon filled up. No alcohol for me as I didn't want the dehydration headache that alcohol would induce, so two pints of very refreshing soda and lime. Now quite excited that, barring an accident, I was going to finish this the next day.

My first view of the River Thames as I entered Goring

Pleasant walking along the Thames

Day 6: Jackie and her mum were driving down to meet me on the final summit with Caroline fresh from her Saturday riding lesson, I'd overestimated 15 miles and 6 hours for the day and a meal was booked for 3:30 so no hanging about for me. Crumbs cafe provided the delicious cooked breakfast I needed along with a ham and cheese sandwich to keep me going. They opened at 8:00am and I was there just after to sit outside in the sun just opposite the start of the trail. Another headache that I gradually got the better of and was on the trail at 8:30am under blue skies and wall to wall sunshine. Through the outskirts of Wendover, up onto Cocks Hill for fabulous views, through Pavis Wood, Tring Park (been here before!), over the A41 dual carriageway and then another Grim's Ditch

The parish church at South Stoke

(not the same one, and this one much shorter - not the same, or are they?). Finally over Pitstone Hill with amazing views again and finally, Ivinghoe Beacon, my end summit comes into view. I'm early, it looks like I'm going to finish much sooner than I thought. I message Jackie who's waiting at the stables for Caroline to finish her lesson. Looks like I'll be on the summit before them, but not to worry. I press on in the sunshine and gorgeous views and finally steeply up the side of Ivinghoe Beacon amongst scores of people strolling up to the summit. I followed two guys ahead of me, they disappeared over the top and as I got up there I saw the summit cairn, scores of people sitting on the grass, blue skies and expansive views. The two guys were just finishing taking photos of themselves at the cairn as I approached so I got out my camera and said 'excuse me, would you mind taking a photo of me by the summit cairn?' 'Not at all' he said. As he took it he said 'you made it then'. I said 'yes, all 87 miles of it'. His face was a picture 'what' he said, 'where have you come from?'. I told him and he said he knows Avebury as he used to live in Bath 'that's in Wiltshire - and you've walked all the way from there?' 'That's amazing'.

And the medieval wall paintings on the church walls inside

It was amazing - and I did it! 

My total for the day: 18.85km (11.71 miles), 326m of ascent and a slightly better time of 5 hours and 5 minutes (see short Relive video of final day route with photos: click here) and for all six days: 150.73km (93.66 miles), 2243m of ascent and a total time of 37 hours and 26 minutes! 

The 3.4 mile strange Grim's Ditch

Jackie and co have arrived, I've savoured the moment on the summit so I grab my rucksack and walk down to meet them walking up to meet me. We stand and chat for a bit and then Bill Bailey walks past! At least it was him or someone who looks exactly like him. It turns out he lives not far away and has done the Ridgeway Trail several times. However I didn't speak to him, by the time my brain had processed the information he had passed and the moment was gone. What a pity. Ice cream on the way down, back to Jon and Lucy's for a shower and lovely family meal and then back to Pauline's, where we are now. I'm still buzzing from it all, feeling good and so very, very pleased I've done it. The many messages of congratulations I've received have been fabulous and now I'm starting to plan for the next one - West Highland Way, here I come!

The signpost at the end of Grim's Ditch showing me the way

My glamping tent for the night

And here it is inside. King size bed, log burning stove, tea/coffee and, on the right, a telescope

View of the flooded quarry with turquoise blue water all fenced off

Lunch stop on top of Lodge Hill. It was my halfway mark for day 5 and there was a convenient bench to sit on. Pity is was a bit foggy

Sudden and unexpected expansive view from the top of Pulpit Hill

Right in the centre of this photo, a long way away is Chequers, our Prime Ministers country retreat. You'll have to click on the photo and zoom in to see it

More expansive views from the top of Coombe Hill just outside Wendover and a good excuse to sit down and have some snacks!

More lovely thatched buildings, this time in Wendover

The final day and the hill in the centre is my first view of my destination, Ivinghoe Beacon

Walking the final steps towards the summit

And finally, after six long days, my summit photo on Ivinghoe Beacon

The final moments on the summit before heading down, enjoying the afternoon sunshine and views with all the other good folk. And that, my friends, is the end of my amazing adventure. Hope to see you on a trail somewhere, sometime