India, Sri Lanka and The Maldives - Days 47 & 48 - Puducherry

Brian's photo just after sunrise on the promenade at Pondicherry. Jackie saw it just poking above the horizon

Day 47

My day started early. I actually had a good nights sleep, the first in ages, but I did wake up at 06.00 (nothing new in that) a French lady in Chettinad had said if you wake up early, go and walk along the promenade. So I did. I arrived just as the sun was a whisker over the horizon so that was good timing. Lovely to watch it rise. The place was buzzing, people sitting taking pictures of the sun, doing yoga, speed walking, jogging. Fishermen on the sea. It was a lovely temperature and I was really pleased to be there. I didn’t stay out long (not wanting himself to worry) but by the time I got back, he’d gone out for a look!

It was busy, busy at 6:00am. People meditating, exercising, running and walking along the pedestrianised promenade before it got too hot. Very pleasant, sociable and safe

Breakfast and then meet guide Moni who was so much better than the last one, he was good fun, attentive, interacted well and interesting. He also did a ‘split shift’ he arrived at 09.00 to walk us round the French Quarter which was very interesting . A beautiful church with the sunlight making lovely patterns through the stained glass. Three different services here are held in Tamil, French and English, I didn’t ask whether by the same vicar. A temple and an Ashram, which was a first the only place we have witnessed in the whole of India where the requested silence was actually observed. According to the Rough Guide “The Sri Aurobindo Ashram is one of the best-known and wealthiest ashrams in India. Founded in 1926 by the Bengali philosopher-guru, Aurobindo Ghosh, and his chief disciple, personal manager and mouthpiece “The Mother”, who was French. Back by 11.00, though we had asked him about hairdressers, Brian’s hair was irritating him and mine was getting bushy. We had passed a unisex hairdresser yesterday and that was where he recommended. With that he put me on the back of his moped and Brian on the back of his friend, who just happened to drive past at the right moment and took us there. With no more English than “medium or short” (I went for medium and dread to think what short would have been) and “look down” I’ve got a very acceptable haircut, as has Brian, but his is easy, I usually do it after all! £8 which included the tip did us both though I think my stylist was probably more nervous than I was!

Walking around the old French colonial buildings in White Town. It was called White Town as it was for the white French people. There also used to be a black town, but no longer, its called the Tamil and Muslim areas. He did tell us that some of the opening scenes for the Life of Pi were filmed in Pondicherry and some of these buildings can clearly be seen. We'll have to watch it again now to see!

Chill for a bit, do the blog, go out for a milkshake. Go round in circles looking for somewhere to eat tonight. There’s just too much choice.

Moni, our very nice guide on the left (it's the only photo I have of him) standing outside the Our Lady of Angels catholic church in White Town, Pondicherry

16.00 Moni came back with a rickshaw. He thought we wouldn’t have done one before, though we had with Daisy In Madurai. He said pretty much what she said that it was good to support the cyclist, so on one hand I feel guilty, but on the other he’s getting paid. Twice. The company paid apparently, so we gave him what we expected to pay as a tip! This trip was the Tamil Quarter, though because we were not walking we did the Muslim Quarter too. I don’t think we’d have managed both, in opposite directions in the heat, even at that time. Two more churches, both very different, and a mosque. Walk round the market and back for beer and crossword.

Very, very nice church inside

I’d finally settled on a restaurant where we did get a good seafood platter for a very good price, though it may not have had the ambience to go with it, that could have been because they turned on all the fans and the two AC units for us which did make it very noisy. We are quite out of the habit of selecting restaurants as we’ve eaten in the homestays and most of the hotels, partly for ease, and partly because it doesn’t actually feel relaxing knowing that Shareef is sitting outside waiting!

Lots of very nice French colonial buildings in this part of town, this one is the French consulate, hence the French flag flying. Interestingly, Pondicherry continued to be a French colony after the British had granted Indian Independence in 1947. France continued as the colonial power until 1954. It's the reason the town is not part of the Tamil Nadu state but is its own mini Union state. They set their own taxes, which are much lower than Tamil Nadu and, at the edge of town are checkpoints where Moni told us they occasionally search people to make sure they are not taking large amounts of alcohol or other goods bought at much lower prices   

Day 48

A late start, 10.00, not that it made any difference to waking time, and after another not good sleep. Brian went out for a brisk walk, so I left him to it. Turned out the early start was because Moni had a two hour cycle tour at 07.00, but that’s fine. I think Brian was a bit jealous of a bike ride, and it’s our only criticism of the planning, not of Magic, but of us. All Magic knew was we were 55 and 68, Brian never told them anything about our fitness or activity levels.

The Arulmigu Manakula Vinayagar Devasthanam temple in the White Town, French quarter. It had been here a long time by the time the French arrived, but the story goes (if I've remembered it right from Moni) that a French general wanted to destroy it. He ordered his men to throw the statue of Ganesh (I think it was Ganesh) into the sea. They did that but the next day it was back in its place. He told the again to do it, which they did, but again the next day it was back in its place. On the third day the General personally witnessed them throwing it into the sea and, the next day when it was back in its place he said it was a miracle and the temple must have special powers, so he granted permission for it to stay

Auroville was our destination and really was only going to take a couple of hours. This is what the Rough Guide says: “The most New Age place anywhere in India must surely be AUROVILLE, the planned “City of Dawn”, 10km north of Pudicherry, straddling the border of the Union Territory and Tamil Nadu. Founded in 1968, Auroville was inspired by “The Mother”, the spiritual successor of Sri Aurobindo. Around 1700 people live in communes (two thirds of them non-Indians), with such names as Fertile, Certitude, Sincerity, Revelation and Transformation, in what it is hoped will eventually be an ideal city for a population of fifty thousand. Architecturally experimental buildings, combining modern Western and traditional Indian elements, are set in a rural landscape of narrow lanes, deep red earth and lush greenery. Income is derived from agriculture, handicrafts, alternative technology, educational and development projects and Aurolec, a computer software company.”

Fabulous painting on the ceiling of the entrance. We didn't go inside as we have seen many temples now and Moni understood that we probably had. However it was very colourfully decorated inside. In this painting Ganesh with his elephant face is in the centre and he is surrounded by other gods but I can't remember them now 

There has been an awful lot of money put in to this place. There is a lovely visitor centre with a short movie which really just describes the Matri Mandir which was the concept of the Mother, though not started till after her death. Visitors are not allowed in, (unless pre booked, in writing to prove you want to go in to think, not sightsee) only to a viewing platform where we can see the golden globe, inside which we know there is a staircase to a white marble cube containing a small crystal globe on to which light is focused to light the whole place. The architecture and landscaping is amazing which is why I say that as well as the communal living and working ideal there is also an awful lot of money.

Even the Pondicherry police have similar uniforms to French police

French bakery for lunch, we branched out and shared a mushroom quiche which certainly made a change. Just to try to keep cool for the afternoon now, though I have to say our room is remarkably cool, with the fan going full pelt.

Time for a haircut for us both

End result. Both feeling much better. This was taken by the hotel manager outside our room at La Cedille

Evening rickshaw ride round the Tamil and Muslim quarters. It was a bit cosy inside

A typical Tamil house in a UNESCO listed street. Originally the railings on the front wouldn't have been there and behind them is an entrance hall that Moni told us would have been open to any Tamil pilgrims who were passing by. They would have been provided water and some food and could pass the night in there if they needed to rest

A mosque in the Muslim area

On we go, our poor man peddling away. He seemed to pedal straight across main roads from a side road without stopping, vehicles on the main road automatically giving way to a rickshaw without even a toot of their horns - as it should be of course. Only once did we see him have to brake when a scooter came across his path. He applied his very noisy, inefficient brakes with slowed him a bit. Perhaps that's the reason everyone gives way as he can't stop!

Another beautiful church

Which we arrived at at just the right time as sunlight was pouring through the round stained glass windows above, shining coloured light onto the right hand side. You can just see in this photo

Those are the windows

And that's the light they were casting

Walking through the flower market. These have been made for weddings and offerings in temples. Before we went in he told us taking photos is OK, but not to touch or even smell the flowers as, if they are for offerings, they must be pure and even smelling them is considered to make them unpure. There was no need to smell them directly as the scent filled the air. The attraction of visiting markets is always the smells, from spices to flowers, along with the hustle and bustle atmosphere, its always a pleasure 

Time for dinner - a seafood platter. We've got lobster, a fried emperor fish, prawns, small fish, like whitebait and calamari (squid), along with rice, French fries, mayo and garlic dips. Very nice!

Another brisk walk for Brian in the cool of the morning at sunrise along the promenade with all the throngs of people

Our visit this morning to Auroville and the very large Banyan tree with multiple trunks that's growing there

The Matrimandir at Aurville. Built after the death of The Mother and only accessible to Aurovillans (and those accepted by email who can go for 'concentration'). Access is through one of  four entrances through the lotus leaves and, inside a circular ramp leads up to a white marble chamber with a crystal in the centre. Its silent inside and, according to Moni, you can hear the stomach of the person next to you rumbling its so quiet. He's not an Aurovillan but knows one and, if we'd been interested in taking it further he would have introduced us. Visitors can only access a limited part of the commune and anyone who wants to join has to volunteer for several years and show the correct inner commitment to be accepted. People live simple lives, living in simple houses with no modern conveniences, have no personal wealth or possessions (presumably they 'donated' everything to the cause) and work for free for the good of everyone. He told us someone from the Apple company came here to live a simple life and one wonders if they are stressed individuals who just need to escape and live a stress free life. I don't know what I think about it really, the organisation is obviously very rich from donations and I guess the people living there giving their money, but is it a cult? Its not a religion that's made very clear, its seeking the Divine within yourself to gain a spiritual understanding. Its a commune where everything is collectivised, just like a communist mini state. I can't decide if its sinister or just a bunch of  modern day hippies living together and happily supporting each other. I guess with my view I'll never get an offer to join! 

There's lots of work going on, apparently The Mother envisaged a lake encircling the Matrimandir, so they are building one. They've built that small section and are continuing to excavate further. Moni thinks its at least a four year programme to get it built

We were there!

The white capsule, which is in an area to the left of the Matrimandir contains a handful of soil for each of the 124 countries and 24 Indian states that took part in the original inauguration in 1968

One more French Colonial building (just in case this was one that appeared in the Life of Pi - it might have been this one) and that's it for now. We're enjoying our last afternoon here in the late afternoon sun. It'll soon be beer O clock and then the final decision as to where to eat tonight. Will it be Crystal  (great Indian/seafood menu and rooftop restaurant, but might have loud music 4.8 out of 5 on Google), Chitras Cuisine (4.1 out of 5 on Google and excellent Indian/seafood menu) or South Indian Kitchen (4.1 out of 5 on Google and another great Indian/seafood menu). It's by no means just limited to that, there are so many! Anyway, see you next in Mahabalipuram (I must practice how to pronounce that quickly and without hestitation!)