Cultural Landmarks of Egypt and India Days 27 to 32

Don't we look smart!

Day 27

Today should have been our first stop in the Maldives with a snorkeling trip. Sadly, just after Brian posted the last blog the Captain gave his daily talk. It started normally but quickly moved on to him apologising that we were no longer going to the Maldives. The new government has changed the way taxes are to be paid for cruise ships coming into Port. The port agents were unable to get any real figures apparently, and have washed their hands of the whole thing. Whether this is the whole story we will never know. Cheapest port fees are about £5000 in the Caribbean, going to about £30,000 with the most expensive being about £50,000. The figure that my new best friend, a fellow cat lover who was our Olsen rep on our last tour, had heard was that they were demanding £500,000!

Our usual evening spot for dancing. Our routine has been to arrive here around 5:20pm (and order our first alcohol!) for the first session of fairly crowded dancing (5:30 to 6:15pm), wander through to another lounge to listen to Howard on his guitar, 6:15 to 7:00pm (he's now playing rock - Jimmy Hendrix, Pink Floyd, Deep Purple etc - for us as we're one of the few in there at that time - more drinks!) back to the Ocean Bar for the next session of dancing - and more drinks, 7:00 to 7:30pm (a very quiet time as first sitting dinner guests have gone, so we have the floor to ourselves - one night it was just us, a band and the floor to ourselves). At the start of the third session of dancing 7:45 to 8:30pm first sitting dinner guests have returned and the floors busy so we only get up when there's something we really want to do - like a fast jive. Its also the time that Jim and later Sue join us for more drinks so we mainly sit and chat with them (unless instructor Chris or host Heidi asks Brian for a dance). 8:30pm is our turn for dinner so we all wander off to take our seats, followed at 10:30 by showtime in the theatre (except when they had a 70's disco night in the upstairs bar!)

Obviously we were all a bit shell shocked at this, which in conjunction with the Indian buffet and BBQ round the pool not going as well as the last one led to a strange evening. It was ridiculously hot, so I couldn't wear the planned outfit, it was also really windy. Things were blowing off the buffet, so they partly closed the roof. This made it even hotter and really really noisy!

Its a small dancing area, smaller than the one upstairs, but they only to one 4:30 to 5:15pm session up there for some reason then move down here. The band are good though 

So today was the first of three unexpected sea days. It was hot and humid with thunder and lightning and rain at 1pm as we sat in the observatory bar, watching it come in. The lecture programme had obviously also changed at the last minute, so we had one good, one ok, and one shockingly bad. The routine continued though with a pilates class, afternoon tea and dancing.

I wore my penultimate outfit, that I hadn't worn to Indian night, only to get back after dinner to find that tomorrow is a formal night.

The band. We got to know them quite well over the period

Day 28

This should have been a sea day, between our two Maldives stops. We have a circuits class booked for later and a formal night tonight. Do I wear my last outfit or do I save it till the Maldivian beach party themed night? After quizzing the deputy entertainment manager I'm wearing it tonight. There is much discussion going on about having a party for somewhere we haven't gone.

On our behind the scenes tour of the ship. They certainly carry a lot of good quality stuff. You won't find carrots any better than that even in M&S!

The excitement of the day is that our morning was spent on a behind the scenes tour. We put our names down when they announced this new activity about three weeks ago, what we thought was immediately, only to find there were only 12 spaces and they were all filled. We were thrilled to find a letter under the door inviting us to the second tour today.

The Morgue - every ship must have one. There was no-one in there (as far as Abbie, Deputy entertainment manager, knew)

We started off, going through a staff only door, off the carpet. First stop the food storage areas, huge as you can imagine, filled with fresh fruit and vegetables, herbs, meat, drinks. Everything that is needed for weeks. Not stopping at the Maldives will make no difference as they weren't planning on stocking up anyway. I was disappointed not to find fresh herbs growing, or the very large mega chicken laying all the eggs for breakfast!

Good to see they have plenty of supplies. We also went into the alcohol store but it was so full I couldn't get a good photo!

We then moved on through the laundry which was smaller than expected, but hugely efficient. Not just table and bed linen for washing, drying and pressing, but all the crew uniforms and passenger laundry for those that don't want to join the laundry scrum. Not that we have had a problem doing ours, but we've heard stories!

Now that is a proper washing machine! Can take 180kg load apparently

The kitchen was the next stop, a hugely well oiled machine, bakers that work all night, three butchers, 86 chefs and washer uppers. They have stats from the last two years of take up of individual menu items and only cook things 10 at a time in an attempt to have as little waste as possible. They also know that between to the two dinner sittings they have an hour and a half to ready replacements if more of something was eaten than expected. It sounds like the head chef is fully hands on, shouting out all the orders for every table as they come through. We just don't have to wait, it's amazing.

The kitchens. The dishes on display by Jackie are sampling dishes. Every dish on offer each day is sampled at least an hour before serving for quality. If anything is not quite right (not enough herbs, salt etc) there is enough time for them to alter before serving. The chef furthest away has seven large pots bubbling in front of him. These are the seven soups they are offering (three in the main restaurant, four for the upstairs buffet restaurant)

We continued with the Engine Control Room, as close as we were going to get to the engine, which wasn't as close as some wanted. Brian has lots of stats from there. We learnt about the desalination plant that produces 42 tons of water an hour, which event lunchtime wasn't keeping up with the 46 tons requirement. The process is reverse osmosis followed by boiling.

Now that is a food mixer!

Refuse disposal next, all crew are responsible for sorting their own waste separating food waste, paper, aluminium cans, deodorant, glass , and the poor chamber maids have to sort through our waste.

The Engine Control Room (ECR). We learnt a lot about the ship in here and on the bridge but, as I know some readers won't be interested I'm putting the more technical photos and facts and figures at the end of this post so you can skip that bit if you want. Others (I'm looking at you Bill!) will want all the gen so look to the end

Our last stop was the bridge, a sea day so not many people in attendance, a look out, the third officer, who was there to talk to us and the Captain who was partly there for us, and partly to give his midday address to the ship. He is very entertaining, while doing his best to educate us too. All of his talks finish ..... aboard the glorious Bolette, and take care of each other, which everyone passenger and crew now join in. A thoroughly enjoyable tour was followed by lunch in the restaurant as we knew what was on the menu, we'd seen the samples ready for tasting, on the pass as we went through the kitchen and I knew one of my favourites was on.

On the bridge with the Captain doing his daily address over the tannoy at 12:00 noon. He provides information of our current position, heading, speed, sea conditions, forecast, next destination and facts about the country we are heading to and the countries nearest to us at that time. He concludes with the same message 'Ladies and gentlemen, enjoy this relaxing sea day aboard the glorious Bolette and, take care of each other, thank you'. Something many people now copy around the ship causing much amusement. I did take a video of him saying it on this day, I'll try to load it at the end of this post if the ships wifi is good enough 

The afternoon was a gym class before dancing and formal dinner. I'm very glad I wore my last outfit, the only one I bought for the cruise, for £7.00 from TK Maxx, I got so many lovely comments, mostly from people I'd never met, which is always good for the ego.

Day 29

We sneaked a look in the captains cabin on the way past...

Our third sea day, we were up early as we changed the clocks back an hour as opposed to forward which was a pleasant change. A few circuits of the deck before breakfast, before it got too hot, staring out over the calmest sea we've had. We didn't see anything then, apart from the wonderful flying fish, but while on deck 6 with the spotters (but not Brian who had gone to give the shockingly bad lecturer a second go now she was talking on her specialist subject of living with the Masai) we saw a large mixed group of pan tropical spotted and spinner dolphins, probably about 100. While writing this I have leapt out of my seat in the observatory lounge as another group has gone past. Smaller I would say, but probably closer to.

And guess what his cabin number is: 007 lets hope he doesn't have a license to kill!

We do have another first today, we will be crossing the equator. More of that later...

Well what an experience, we managed to get a table by the pool just before the start of the lunchtime events. It was hot, and undercover so no breeze, but beggars can't be choosers. The free drinks was vastly different from the rum punch at the sail away party. This was two hours of a free bar. Now I know we have paid for the drinks package, so we have a permanent free bar, but somehow when everyone else is getting as much down their necks as possible, it's rude not to join in.

Howard on his guitar opening the celebrations on the midship pool deck for the Crossing the Equator celebrations

Lunch was an amazing seafood buffet, so I went in, rather than us both leave our table and came back with lobster, prawns, mussels, clams amongst others. It was fab. The entertainment then started with Howard the guitarist who we support in the evening. He was followed by the ice carving demonstration and the battle of the bartenders.

The completed ice carving (in 30 C heat - it was melting fast!) He carved that from a block in about 5 minutes

Chris and Derek appeared from dancing and although we couldn't offer them a seat we could offer them a table as they collected drinks, from the various bars on the deck. We had a hoot.

As we cross the equator King Neptune appears (Abbie, the assistant entertainments manager who looks about 12 but has a huge personality) and judgement commences for all authority figures on the ship as each is forced to kneel before her, kiss a fish and gets thrown into the pool to much cheering from the gathered masses

Just after 14.00 as we crossed the equator king Neptune was welcomed aboard supported by his two mermaids in drag, one bearded and one well over 6' before the 6" heels! It's a traditional ceremony, the Captain was offered the option to kiss the fish or Johnathan the very tall mermaid, before being thrown into the pool, fully clothed, including shoes and glasses. The next three officers for whom it was also the first time over the equator did finally find his glasses on the bottom of the pool. This trickled through the engineers and entertainment staff who also hadn't crossed before, before reaching the passengers. I said to Brian I was going in, he thought I meant indoors, I meant in, to kiss the fish and be thrown in the pool. I was fully clothed but it was plenty warm enough. The chap Brian had been talking to told him he had to go in too, it's tradition. I missed this as I was just getting out. I did wander to the side, just as he arrived, in time to take his hearing aids off him! He'd emptied his pockets, but.... Fortunately they still seem to work!

Well, thats the captain (on the right) and two of his officers in

What a great day!

Day 30

Our last sea day.

I'm sure there's a sign somewhere that says 16 maximum in the pool at one time 

It started well as I saw the blow from a sperm whale just as we arrived at breakfast, about 4 puffs, confirmed by Laura from OWE.

Dance instructor Chis and husband Derek join us along with two of the dance hosts. There's too much alcohol going down!

We then managed to fit in an abdominals class in the gym, we'd signed up for one yesterday, but had still been dripping at the allotted time! It was hard.

Then Jackie kisses the fish and gets thrown in, closely followed by me. Its a tradition if you haven't done it before apparently

Brian then risked another lecture from the shocking lecturer, she's not as bad now she's on her topic, while I went out with the wildlife spotters.

Dance instructor Chris has been in too and strikes a pose

A breaching beaked whale was my claim to fame. It broke the surface three times and was certainly bigger than a dolphin!

And now they're doing the conga. Do you know you've got a dance class to run in less than 2 hours Chris? I'm sure it'll be fine!

We had a great lunchtime with Edwina and Syd who we'll be sad to leave, and they say they'll miss us. The other two couples, apart from Chris and Derek, the dance instructors, that we've bonded with, Sue and Jim our table mates and Chris and Chris from dancing will also be on our flight so at least we don't have to say goodbye to them till the last minute!

Passing Silhouette Island in the Seychelles at sunset. The captain manoeuvred the ship to give us the best possible view while Abbie read out a soothing, romantic message of sailing folklore over the tannoy telling us how pirates had used the island to hide buried treasure (it is believed a lot of treasure has been buried on these islands and never recovered - yet!). We missed most of a session of Howard on his guitar to see this, but he understood!

We are sailing through the islands that compromise the Seychelles and arrive at Mahé at 7pm tonight. In another quirk, we are not allowed to berth on the island for more than 36 hours, so all shore visits tomorrow will be by tender which will be another experience, particularly as the swell will be quite large!

Day 31 the Seychelles

About to get onto a tender (ship lifeboat) in a 1 metre swell to get to shore. That is designed to take 150 people in an emergency, I counted 77 of us on it and it felt quite full!

Another new experience, the Bolette was moored out in the sea which meant that we had to use the tenders to get ashore. The tenders are actually some of the lifeboats which makes perfect sense. We just hadn't thought about it! We missed going ashore before the trips so had to wait for them all to go, but that's fine. There was quite a swell which made getting off the ship into the tender interesting for some. It was then very hot and very crowded, and this was with just over half the people it is intended for as a lifeboat! Chatting with Abbie, there is no toilet, just a window and an ocean and, in an emergency, there is food in board and 1.5 litres of water per person, but nobody is allowed any for the first 24 hours!

As we pull away another one arrives to take more people ashore

Arrived at the port and couldn't be bothered to wait for the bus so we walked straight to the botanical gardens, as recommended by Sue and Jim, and the tour talk. Glad we went straight there! The tortoises were fab, they wanted to be petted, rubbed on the back of the head and the neck extended further and further and they stood on tiptoes. One of them finally standing on Brian's toes, quite heavy apparently! There were lots of lovely birds, but sadly lots of mosquitos, though seemingly only for me, and I had put bug spray on! I did eventually see someone I recognised and begged some spray from them which certainly helped a bit. It was horribly humid though so after walking into the town we stopped at the museum for some air conditioning and WiFi before returning to the ship for afternoon tea, just a little nibble as we had a cocktail party at 17.15 for those of us disembarking tomorrow. Free drinks, canapes and chatting with the Captain, the hotel manager and the Entertainments manager. We think we may have hogged the dignitaries! We stayed with Sue and Jim from here for the whole of the evening as there was no dancing. The band had been given the night off! A final show by the Bolette Theatre company rounded off the evening 

Shore welcome. Not a red carpet, but green will do. Drinks and cold towels provided by smiling crew as we alight from the tender at Victoria Mahé into 30 C humid heat

Day 32

We spent more time in our cabin today than at any other point (apart from sleeping) and that was to pack. We have to leave our cases out by 2am tomorrow morning and vacate our cabin by 08.00 though they will provide storage for our hand luggage and somewhere for us to shower and change. It's suddenly all very real. I'd quite happily stay on, as I'm thoroughly enjoying the experience. Brian wants to get back to normality, but obviously that means I've got to shop and cook! We'll also get back to drinking a sensible amount which can only be a good thing.

Past old colonial buildings in this picture postcard island. It has a really nice feel about it and probably worth a future visit and the mountains offer hiking trails, snorkelling on the nearby reefs and beaches (if you like that sort of thing!)

We've both enjoyed the gym classes, pilates today was a killer after our abs class the other day!

The double Coco De Mer sea coconut growing here. It is unique to these islands growing nowhere else

We really did strike lucky with Sue and Jim as table mates and Chris the dance teacher really has made that good fun, and into a good cohesive group. The other couples we've really got to know, Edwina and Syd, and Chris and Chris have both been through the dancing so it wouldn't have been the same without it.

A Mynah bird eyes us as we pass

Giant tortoises endemic to these islands come over to have a look

Jackie, of course, had to stroke one and he seemed to really enjoy it rising onto his tip toes and stretching his neck out

He moved in fast (faster than you think) and trod on my foot!

I'm assuming they were trying to mate, but it wasn't going very well!

Jackie finds a leaf that he seemed to like, chomping it up surprisingly quickly

Some other wildlife we saw, this (so I'm told) is a sunbird

And this little beauty (of which we saw quite a few) is a fody

Large fruit bats flying overhead

The best photo I got of a Seychelles Blue Pigeon (with a red face), endemic to these islands

We all know what these are!

Giant snails mating. Never seen that before, it was very gentle!

We met up with Jim and Sue and the cafe. He might look grumpy but he's a big teddy bear

There's great flora too. Not sure what this is but it demanded a photo

The Clock Tower in the centre of Victoria, built by the British for Queen Victoria

If there's a sign like this it demands a photo even if its on a busy junction and that man had almost obscured Jackie

Into the history museum and this is a copy of a treasure map thrown to the crowds by pirate Olivier Le Vasseur as he went to the gallows and was hanged in 1730. He threw it to the crowds saying 'My treasure to he who can understand'. The hunt for his treasure continues unabated

What gold would have been found in here!

The stone laid on the islands by the French in the 1740's when they claimed the uninhabited islands for France. They were subsequently displaced by the British

Jackie took these photos with her phone through the window of the ship ', hence the poor quality. They are Tropicbirds

At our cocktail party leaving do on the rear pool deck and here we are posing with Captain Mikael Degerlund. We probably took the lions share of his time as he was very interesting to talk to

We followed that with a long chat with Entertainment Manager Andy Godfrey who was thrilled when we asked for his photo as he says no-one normally wants his photo

So now I'm going on to some technical stuff about the ship. We werent't allowed into the engine room on our tour but could see these CCTV images. Here's one of the engines, count the number of green tops, there's 8 with another 8 on the other side making a V16 diesel engine. There are five of these that generate electricity  to power the ships electric motor engines and all power on board the ship. The total power available from all 5 is 65,000HP (48.6MW) and they are ZAV 40 S Sulzer that can propel the ship at up to 25kn. For normal cruising at 15kn they use only two engines, but when we went through the dangerous Bab-al-Mandab strait as we exited the Red Sea by Yemen and were advised by the US Navy to travel at 22kn they ran four engines. They weren't running at full power but were running in case an emergency manoeuvre was necessary. They would never use all five at once so can be maintaining one at any time on rotation. They also have a further two smaller emergency engines too. They all run on ultra low sulphur fuel and they can carry up to 300 tonnes of fuel. That will last approximately 20 cruising days depending on speed

This is a photo of the main ship propellors, the Azipods, when it was in dry dock. There are two of them, driven by large electric motors and they can swivel through 360 degrees. It means the ship is very manouevrable allowing is to move sideways to dock. Apparently they told us that by turning the pods through 180 degrees they could stop the ship within two ship lengths, but if they did there wouldn't be many whole plates left on the ship!

The green is one of the main electric motors driving the propellor, the only part of the azipod inside the ship

The azipods control the back of the ship when docking but these bow thruster bring the front into dock as well

This is a stabiliser that helps to stop the ship rolling too much in bad weather. There are two of these, one either side, hydraulically driven. They are 5m long

On the bridge the display shows one stabiliser is deployed

No paper charts are used now, they are all electronic

But it still has a steering wheel and here Jackie is in charge overseen by the captain

Our position during our tour. You can see we hadn't then crossed the equator. They use two navigation systems, the US system and another, I think, European system which both agreed with one another (fortunately)

A classic bridge photo. Other facts about the ship: It has 690 cabins with a capacity of 1338 guests (only about 800 on our sailing). Crew 645. Length: 237.94m, width: 32.3m, height: 44.1m tonnage: 62,735, 8m draft

So now I'm going to try to upload the video of the end of the captains announcement...

Unfortunately it's too large a file, can't do it! 

So I'll just finish with this photo taken a few minutes ago through the observatory window. We're on the top (9th floor) of the ship and these guys have just climbed up the outside to undertake some maintenance work. We waved and they waved back! That's about it from us in the Seychelles, lunch now then we get ready for the long flight home. See you back in the UK