From Cazorla to Cordoba and its magnificent Mezquita-Cathedral - Days 121 to 125

Jackie writes the first part (purple type) and, below in green type is a bit of history of Cordoba by Brian.

Here's a silent youtube video of our photos in Cordobas Mezquito-Cathedral lasting less than 3 minutes

Ubedas Plaza del 1st de Mayo & Iglesia de San Pablo

Thursday: Woke in Cazorla to thick fog, and rain, we knew there would be rain so had already decided not to do the tortuous drive into the park for a wet walk. The drive to Ubeda wasn’t far so with no plans we took it slowly in the fog, though did almost come a cropper where they had blocked off the exit we wanted with little warning. Up the motorway for a bit then, but even that wasn’t enough to fully charge Ted’s leisure battery. It probably would have been except for having the lap top plugged in charging too. We aren’t energy hungry, I don’t blow dry my hair and we don’t use electric toothbrushes or razors, but phones etc do have to be kept charged. 

One of the many narrow streets in UNESCO listed Ubeda

Plaza Vazquez Molina in Ubeda after the rain stopped

Ted can charge if plugged in, when driving or via the solar panel. We haven’t done a lot of plugging in since arriving in Spain, the availability just isn’t there without paying expensive campsite fees, so just occasionally a short drive, and no sun presents us with something to think about. We knew it was going to be cold ( though actually the coldest night is tonight, yet to come) so had filled up with gas, but the fan to blow the heat around still uses the battery. It’s not actually me I’m worried about getting cold, I’ve got clothes, throws and hot water bottles, but Ted has this ‘failsafe’ on the boiler, if it gets to 3 degrees he dumps the water rather than risk it freezing and causing damage so what we don’t know is what the temperature is in the boiler locker compared to in the main living space and compared to outside. Tonight with a forecast of -2 the heater will be left on and hopefully we’ll be ok.

Ubeda cats!

Plaza del Populo in Baeza another UNESCO listed town

It was still miserable so having parked up enthusiasm to walk into Ubeda was minimal so we watched a movie. (The 12v TV is remarkably energy efficient). About 17.00 we did stir ourselves and go to find the tourist information to get a map in preparation for the next day. (Ubeda campsite location: 38°00'23.8"N 3°22'46.0"W) (campsite amenities and more photos: click here, then on item 50 in list)

Despite the ridiculous winds (reported throughout Spain on one of my motorhome Facebook pages) we survived and walked out on Friday, only getting rained on once. We could have waited till the weather cleared, but that was due to coincide with everything closing at 14.00 for the 2 hour lunch break! We could see why it is a UNESCO site, the architecture is wonderful, a lot of Moorish influence, but also a mix of old Spanish styles too.

Baeza, another town to explore!

Fortunately the afternoon sun was enough to rejuvenate Ted who was proudly boasting 100% charged, hurrah. That was before the wind, rain and hail set in, but that’s OK.

Saturday: Today we moved to Baeza another UNESCO site, only 8km away and smaller so we have seen it, in the bitter cold, before the rain came. Very interesting to look at, though I haven’t much to say, so hopefully the pictures will say it all. Tomorrow we head to Córdoba, More architecture, and Brian may write some history before posting. (Baeza campsite location: 37°59'47.3"N 3°27'33.9"W) (campsite amenities and more photos: click here, then on item 51 in list)

Santa Iglesia Catedral, Baeza

The mosque-cathedral in Cordoba

Sunday: The drive to Córdoba was uneventful, once we’d managed to get out from Baeza and the snarl up of roadworks we got caught in going into Ubeda. The Aire in Córdoba is expensive, €17.95 a night, for which you get no services, no WiFi, road noise and a hideously sloping site. BUT you are within 15 minutes walk of the mezquita-catedral and that is what we’ve come to see. Us and tourists, Spanish tourists out for the weekend and busloads of Japanese tourists. Where have they come from, and where are they going? (Cordoba campsite location: 37°52'27.3"N 4°47'15.2"W) (campsite amenities and more photos: click here, then on item 52 in list)

The Roman bridge in Cordoba

Calle Flores, Cordoba

We walked through the gardens, round the outside and up the bell tower (that used to be the minaret) but we didn’t pay our €10 and go inside, why? Because between 08.30 and 09.30 on a weekday morning it is free to get in! We actually set an alarm for 07.00 this morning but woke up anyway and were queuing outside, after our usual coffee in bed, but no breakfast, at 08.20.

What a building, it was amazing. A mosque built in the 700’s extended in the 800’s and 900’s that had a cathedral built inside it in the 16 century. Such a weird mix of cultures and styles, I loved it. It was also the weirdness of organ music, industrial cleaners on the stonework as well as floor cleaners and ladies with brooms. I thought it was free entry for mass, but it appears it was free entry for cleaning, but that was good for us.

One of many similar picturesque streets in Cordoba, a maze of beautiful picture postcard streets

Outside the city walls at Plaza Almodova

After breakfast out, toast with olive oil and a rough purée of tomato we returned to Ted and left. We’d spent four hours walking around yesterday, in and out, up and down, aching feet and a good feel for the city.

So we are now 40 minutes away, in a nice enough, nothing sort of town, the only people (so far, but it is early) in an Aire behind closed gates. (campsite location: 37°41'47.1"N 4°29'04.7"W) (campsite amenities and more photos: click here, then on item 53 in list)

The old synagogue in Cordoba

After the two windy nights in Ubeda, the night in Baeza, behind the bus station, with the youth screaming up and down in the carpark beside us doing handbrake turns, and a slopey night in Córdoba worrying about the man that Brian wouldn’t loan €5 to to get medicine for his father today.... if I don’t sleep here, there’s no hope for me! There are even two electric sockets on the service point, free electric? In Spain? Wow. We are charging everything and I’ll make the pie filling on the electric ring shortly before Brian uses the electric whisk to make a cake, as obviously these two sockets have to be shared, assuming anyone else turns up.....

Cordoba:

The Alcazar de los Reyes Cristianos, Cordoba

Taken from 'The Rough Guide to Spain', information in Cordoba and various web sites. After the Roman Empire was showing signs of collapse, Spain was invaded in 411 by the Visigoths from Gaul, who built a small cathedral in Cordoba called St Vincent. In 711 Spain was invaded by the Moors from North Africa bringing their Islamic religion and culture with them and occupying all but the very north of the country. In 756 the city was placed under the control of Abd ar-Rhaman I, who purchased the Christian site of the cathedral and commenced building the first mosque, which was completed by his son, Hisham in 796. It was greatly extended by al-Hakam II between 961-76, virtually doubling the site and constructing a new mihrab and again between 977-1002 by al-Mansur, who extened it as far south as possible. At that time it had 365 bays, 1236 marble columns and 1445 lamps and was considered the finest and most magnificent mosque in Europe. During the Christian reconquest of Spain, Cordoba was captured by Ferdinand el Santo in 1236, but the city remained largely unaltered for three centuries, until 1523, after the final conquest of Granada and the expulsion of the Moors from Spain. 

The Mezquita-Catedral from across the river, Cordoba

A hidden dome inside the bell tower

King Carlos V agreed to 'Christianise' the mosque by building a cathedral in the centre, creating a bizarre mix of the two. This coincided with the rise of the Spainish Inquisition and led to the expulsion of the Jews and Muslims from Spain. The central part of the mosque was demolished and a new cathedral built up and through it, creating a strange mix of christianity and ialam in the same building. The original mosque was magnificent and so is the cathedral in an almost 'whatever you can do I can do better'. After its completion Carlos V realised his mistake and said "you have built what you and others might have built anywhere, but you have destroyed something that was unique in the world". It didn't stop him, however, doing the same to the Alhambra in Granada and in Seville. It has, however created something that itself is unique in the world and one of the few places where Islam and Christianity exist alongside one another.

The bizarre view from the top of the bell tower (formerly the mosques minaret) of the cathedral sprouting through the roof of the mosque

The islamic arches inside the mezquita-catedral

Having visited Central and South America and seen the destruction of indigenous culture and buildings by the Spanish and replacements with Catholic churches, it so reminded us of this. Cusco in Peru suffered a similar fate, beautiful Inca religious buildings to their sun gods were destroyed in a similar way to be replaced by Catholic cathedrals and it is such a pity that their zeal for forcing their faith on local populations has resulted in such destruction. Although it was a long time ago and the result is something so eye catching, magnificent and bizarre all at the same time, we can't help wondering why it all had to happen. 

The great dome of the cathedral inside the mezquita-catedral

Beautiful islamic architecture, with a crucifix!

The christian cathedral dome with islamic arches

A painting of the Last Supper flanked by islamic arches - only at the mezquita-catedral, Cordoba

On to our destination today, the orange tree lined main street of Castro del Rio

Plaza de la iglesia, Castro del Rio

Nearly didn't go into this church on Plaza de Jesus in Castro del Rio....

But glad we did as inside was this amazing altar and domed roof

Back to Big Ted in the free Aire in Castro del Rio, overlooking olive groves. We're the only one here tonight in a lovely spot in a quiet very nice town with free electric hook up. What a nice place and a way of life! We like it so much we may stop here for a second night.