Brian and Jackie Cross: Ricote, Southern Spain

Tuesday 22 January 2019

Ricote, Southern Spain - Days 110 to 112

On the top of the local hill in Ricote

Our last night in Totana was slightly disturbed, there was rain, first at 00.15 and then at 02.25 which was accompanied by voices that disturbed us both. On looking out of the window, there were three people, with torches, walking the other side of the fence. Very strange, they then disappeared down the bank, into a car and drove off. It didn’t feel sinister as they weren’t trying to keep undetected, but what were they doing?

On the Aire in Ricote, about to go exploring

Said our farewells to those on the Aire, and finally got away about 11.30, but that’s OK, it was only an hour and a half and the weather wasn’t up for much. Once off the motorway however the scenery was stunning and the little white road actually pretty good. We arrived at the Aire having driven erroneously round half the village, a huge space, though Aire for 7 vans? Also confusing in that in the book the hexagonal buildings have pointed tops on, to make them look like pencils, fortunately we’d been warned they didn’t look like that anymore. We parked away from the busy corner, towards two other vans with a lovely view down the valley, later realising why the majority of the vans were in the corner, it was very windy! (Aire location: 38°09'03.5"N 1°22'01.7"W) (Aire amenities and photos: click here and on item 45 in list)

The town of Ricote

Found these cacti growing behind the town

Although it was Sunday, we were surprised that there were so many cars parked on our way in, particularly with notices warning of parking restrictions that evening, for fireworks! Went for a walk about and found a little funfair, notices about parades and fireworks, warning that the supermarket and market were shut on Monday and Tuesday..... Better find out what is going on then. Search the Internet to find it’s the fiesta of San Sebastián, learned about it in an interesting article, written by the mayor, for La Opinion de Murcia, which very impressively turned from Spanish to English before my eyes. So Sunday we have a parade and fireworks, which we had worked out on our own, 21st, neighbourhood participation with popular food such as traditional gachmigas (?) and procession through the streets again on the 22nd.

They really have very large spikes on them. Definitely don't want to fall into one of those!

View of the town and Aire parking from behind the town

We decided to indulge in the spirit of the thing and eat out having seen street vendors for crepes, waffles and churros, must be something savoury somewhere? We did eventually find the burger wagon, just opening, while we waited for our hotdogs he presented us with five chips each on a cocktail stick, to keep us going! I just love the way that sort of thing happens here! While wandering, we found the one shop that was open (no bars, nothing else) and cooking frozen baguettes, hurrah, nip back to Ted with one of those then.

The town and full moon

The fireworks set up and ready to go, on the access road to our Aire!

Back into town, following various members of the brass band, they are bound to know where the action is - at the church. We waited for Saint Sebastián to come out, on his dias, carried by 16 or so strong men, led by the Padre, past the ridiculously close first set of fireworks. They were followed by the five princesses, and then the brass band, and then the people. They weren’t that strong, they had to keep calling the boys, carrying large crutches, in to support the Dias and give them a break. We followed the procession as far as the churro stand.... well, rude not to! Right, back to Ted as we weren’t sure if we left it much longer, we would be able to, what with the road being full of fireworks to be launched in about an hour.....!

The dias waiting in the church

We had the best view in the whole Aire of the various displays that went on as the procession proceeded, but even so, when it came to ours we threw on our crocs and ran to the end of the little road, well if it’s ok for the firemen, the firework men and the drone pilot it’s ok for us. Well it almost was, except for the piece of bomb of some sort that fell on my foot, and then vanished, sounds pathetic, but it really hurt! The fireworks were amazing, I know we’ve all seen big displays, but not usually from that close!

The princesses waiting for the procession to start

The dias being carried down the road amongst crowds of people

Apart from the wind gusting into the van, and the dogs in one of the two nearby vans the night was also disturbed by going out at 05.20 to look at the red moon and the eclipse, glad we did, though it was jolly cold!

Right, where are we going to walk? That’s why we came here after all. Up to that little man made lump on that hill? OK. Ambled through the town, never finding the band who were already at it, sad really as I later discovered it was the children’s procession, the girls carrying the baby Sebastián, but never mind.

The blood red moon near the end of earth eclipse

Found what looked like a possible route, and a couple with a dog having a mad five minutes, fortunately, as she said “Castillo?” We nodded as if this had been our intention all along, she pointed us up the drainage canal and said just keep going. Really we shouldn’t have started from there, but she was right, we found the path, all the way to the three bits of wall of very unstable looking castle. Half way back down we deviated from the path to look in the cave and have a mess about our the rocks. From our vantage point we could see Ted, all alone in his part of the carpark, the wrong side of the new barrier that was being erected.....!

Jackies foot injury from the firework. Fortunately it looks worse than it is!

The path up to the castillo de Ricote

Walking very fast we found the barrier wasn’t very substantial but we were on the wrong side of it. “Are we ok?” A sort of noncommittal shrug, till we realised small brush fires were being built all around. We got into conversation with the fire builders on either side of Ted who were lovely, said we were ok, until the bombero (fireman) came up and looked worriedly at the silver screen. We’ll move, so glad we did, as 10 minutes later it would have been impossible, and sparks were everywhere! I guess this will be the neighbourhood participation gachmigas then. Migas we tried last year in Granada, it’s a plate of fried breadcrumbs with various bits of sausage and bacon added, quite liked it. This version however wasn’t quite the same, the ‘crumbs’ were formed just from flour and water fried and chopped and stirred till they were very small, before bits of sausage, pork and according to what I read dried fruit were added.

The remains of the Moorish castillo on top of the hill

Views back down Big Ted is in view, far right

We found a great space in the corner, slotted in nicely, got the chairs out in the sun and watched the comings and goings. It was great, lots of small groups of friends and family with chairs, tables, an open fire, a big frying pan thing and away they went. When it all seemed to be calming down a bit we went for a wander, back to where Ted had been parked as they’d said to come back to ‘comer’ eat.

Zoomed in to Big Ted before they set up for the afternoon party

With that we were handed plates of crumbs, salt sardines, a chilli and a spoon. The crumb was very bland, as it would be, but with the additions was an interesting meal, not quite as interesting as trying to drink wine from a hide wine carrier, over my face and glasses, and it was horrible, but all part of the event. The music for the event did leave a bit to be desired, particularly after all the mums and dads had gone and we were left with the techno rave, but fortunately they all packed up and went home about 19.00!

Being observed by a goat near the castillo

So a second night of not eating the last portion of chicken casserole.... we must eat it tonight, but how great to be included, and welcomed like old friends.
Today we went on a longer walk, dressed to kill, hats, gloves, buffs and layers, it really is very cold, and today, no sun, so Ted isn’t charging. I’m writing this, but will the laptop survive to post? Particularly as our planned drive tomorrow is only 25 minutes! It’s all part of the learning experience!