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| We had to start this post with a photo of the Northern Lights. This was us taken on a long exposure photo that Veronica took. Although it looks only semi dark it was quite dark. I was taking photos on just my phone, with special long exposure settings and, for that I needed a tripod to keep it still enough. There's my cheap tripod with mobile mounted on top, that did the job admirably and as good as many peoples expensive cameras |
Friday 9th Narvik
We've actually got two tours booked here, so what to wear? It's crisp and clear (we are so lucky), but still dark, sunrise isn't till 11.15 though there is a lot of twilight at either end of the day. We had breakfast and went outside to feel the temperature where we met D&P doing the same thing. What does a temperature of -14 feel like? Bearing in mind we were going to be on a bus and then a train we didn't want too much on. Still not wearing my light down jacket under my big one, or the padded over trousers I bought for Nepal many years ago and have never worn. I'll save them for the second trip.
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| Outside at Narvik to test the clothing in -14C, where we met Denise and Paul doing the same |
The train ride was lovely, very scenic, we cleverly sat on the fjord side of the train which has far better views, though they do want you to change seats for the return journey so everyone has a go. Three short stops where we could get off, breath the air and take photos. As we pulled into the final one, it had obviously got colder, the trees were covered in rime looking beautiful. Very exciting to see a reindeer grazing through the snow, no antlers so I assumed female. Having just looked it up though, at this time of year it's females who have antlers while males have lost them after the autumn rut. Does this mean that all of Santa's reindeer are female then and Rudolph a eunuch? (And why do we say a eunuch and not an eunuch?) Then there were some antlers moving as a second one trotted away. A third stood there for ages while Brian tried to get his phone out, but it was off, just before he managed it. Lovely to see though. We did swap to the other side of the carriage which was still pretty as it darkened. Sunset was at 12.59, but again, lots of twilight.
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| One of the stops on the Arctic train and Denise and Jackie poke their heads round the side of Paul for a photo |
Having been first onto the train, we were also first off. This was good as we only just made it back to the ship before lunch service finished, just before 15.00.
Eating is all a bit confused today as we are due out again at 19.45 and one wouldn't want to go hungry! D&P considered walking back into Narvik for the afternoon, they weren't doing an evening trip, but decided it was cold and dark so we'd all walk in in the morning.
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| Looking down Ofotfjord towards Narvik on one of our train stops. This was the site of a major naval battle in WWII between Germany and the UK. Germany had seized the port in April 1940 and were using the railway line we were on to transport iron ore from mines in Sweden to the ice free port of Narvik for onward shipment, It was also a useful base from which to operate the War of the Atlantic against British ships trying to resupply the UK with convoys of ships from the USA. Britain sent 5 destroyers to engage the 10 ships Germany had in the port on 10th April 1940. The result was a British victory but with a loss of 2 destroyers with another heavily damaged that made it back to the UK where it was subsequently repaired and put back into service. Germany lost 2 destroyers along with another 7 ships and had 4 destroyers damaged and suffered 163 casualties. Amazing to think a fierce battle raged in these peaceful, icy waters all those years ago |
Another meal and more clothes, and we were boarding our bus to go and chase the Northern lights. Veronica was a great guide, and took us into Sweden while educating and talking all the way. Her first stopping place had a couple of buses in so we gave that one a miss only for someone to spot a streak in the sky on the other side of the bus to us. Fortunately we were close to another parking place, though this did have some ground light the Aurora were still very impressive. A bright white streak all across the sky. Brian took a few pictures and messaged D&P who had just finished dinner so dashed out onto the deck of the ship. They got some good pictures, though said it wasn't really visible with the naked eye. They were however very grateful as they'd heard no announcements.
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| The snow was quite deep and in the -15C temperature, was very dry and powdery. We didn't get wet walking in it and it just fell away like dust on removing a foot |
We took lots of pictures which are all green even though what we were seeing was white, before just standing and looking. This counts, mission accomplished, we've seen the Aurora Borealis with our naked eyes. We became aware that time was up and it was only us, and Veronica, still out of the bus, so off we went. She decided to start heading back at this point, it was almost 22.00, not to return to base but just to give us longer when we next stopped. I could see them out of the window as we drove, just before we pulled into a parking area close to a lake. She led us to the lake through deep 'magic' snow, it was so cold and crisp it didn't even need brushing off, where the view was stunning. We probably watched and photographed for 45 minutes, until again, it was just the three of us left. I suspect those on the bus were slightly bored and disgruntled, well there was no sign of the promised tea and biscuits, but we were extremely happy. I hadn't even put on my little down jacket or over trousers, so they are STILL unworn after probably 20 years!
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| Dressed in our cold weather gear we felt quite ok in the sub zero temperatures |
We were last back to the ship and went straight up to the late night buffet, another first, which was just winding down though they did find a little more food. We'd had a message from Denise saying they'd push back breakfast as she'd had a little more to drink than usual, only to get back to the cabin to find a note pushed under the door. Due to incoming adverse weather rather than leaving Narvik at just after midday we would be leaving at just after midnight in order to get to Stavanger on time. Oh well, it didn't look like an exciting city anyway.
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| Denise managed to get a photo of a reindeer (not a good photo as I had to zoom right in and the quality suffered) |
Saturday 10th
Amazingly we woke up and looked out of the window to see a faint glow on the horizon, it was 08.50. I haven't slept that late in years. How lovely.
We weren't far behind D&P to breakfast and have had a very relaxing day. The crew had come up with a morning program, though the quickstep lesson D&P were going to do before lunch was cancelled, due to the motion of the ocean.
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| Cinnamon buns on the way back. Its a local speciality but I can't remember the name now. I've just looked it up and its called a Kanelsnurrer |
We decided to go to the main restaurant for lunch as D&P hadn't done this before, sadly lots of people seemed to have the same idea so we ended up sitting as far away from the window as was possible which didn't do Denise any good, she had to retire to the cabin.
Brian and I had a loyalty cocktail party at 17.00 as we are silver members. A long way to go to gold, diamond or diamond elite, but the first time we've not been bronze and not invited. It seemed to be quite poorly attended, my third glass of fizz was put down infront of me whether I wanted it or not! We did manage a little bit of dancing so it can't have been too bad.
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| View from the window on the way back. We decided the distant rock in the centre looked like the head of a troll |
We were very impressed that we got 10% of the price of the trip refunded, because there was no coffee and biscuits! I said people were probably a bit irritated!
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| And when you zoom in it really does |
Sunday 11th
This was a scheduled sea day, about which there isn't much to say. Everything was cancelled. There were a number of crashes from the kitchen during dinner service, though it didn't seem to slow down the arrival of our dinner which is always good!
Just after 21.00 we entered a fjord which was going to take us quite a long way south. The seas were much less which was a relief and we could pick up speed towards Stavanger, our final stop. This was true until about 04.00 when we had to come out of the fjord back into the open ocean. Noticeable even while in bed.
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| On our evening bus chasing the northern lights - that's pretty cold! We drove for an hour and a half across Norway into Sweden in search of dark skies for the best views of the Northern Lights |
Monday 12th Stavanger
Or not!
We'd just made it into breakfast, expecting to dock in about half an hour, when unusually, the Captain came over the tannoy, apologetically explaining that although it felt relatively calm he was unable to bring the ship along side as he said the wind was Force 9 gale, so we were going to have to miss out the port stop. In any case, we probably wouldn't have gone ashore in a wind that strong.
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| Someone spotted an aurora from the bus so we pulled in to a parking area by lake Tornetrask in Sweden that had some light pollution, but it was so vivid it didn't matter. This is pretty much how it looked to us with the naked eye, very clear. However, when I mounted the phone on a tripod and took and 8 second exposure (on ISO 3200), see what I got... |
We had no tour booked, but were all looking forward to getting some exercise on dry land, though we were expecting wind and sleet with a temperature of about -6°C with wind chill so it wasn't going to be pleasant.
We are therefore heading back towards Portsmouth giving us a total of 4 sea days which I don't mind, but is a bit much for the others. We've staked our claim in the Observatory, my favourite place, which is high and at the front but where you can see the horizon which is good, though for the last hour or so the horizon has most definitely not been level, we've been tilted way over to starboard. It is a bit unusual to just see sea on the right and just see sky on the left!
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| Just amazing, vivid colours. They come out so much better on a photo as the camera is much more sensitive to the colours than our eyes and the long exposure lets more light in |
Brian has attempted the gym, sitting on an exercise bike, till they closed it, while I have been to a cookery demonstration which was fine, though the big pan of hot oil for deep frying the chilli beef was a little unsettling.
Waves crashing over the Observatory on deck 9 were a little unusual, as was warm water in the toilet bowl. Nobody has been able to explain that one to me. We had lunch and waited for 15.00 when we were expecting it to calm from the force 12 and seas of 6 to 8 meters, and indeed it did. Good, I can wear heels for the second formal night!
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| This is actually looking the other way, the aurora streaked right across the sky. It would fade and then reappear even brighter than before. It was, truly amazing. We've all seen photos like these before, but to see it in person is quite remarkable and we're so glad we made the trip and it was a spectacular showing |
Tuesday 13th
Looking out it's hard to remember how rough it was yesterday, it's amazingly calm, though visibility isn't brilliant.
We can finally get out onto the promenade deck and do some walking, though one section was closed for some repairs so you had to turn round and walk back, not good to be meeting people when trying to speed walk! You could tell the power of the wind looking at the paint that had been blasted off. There seemed to be a rupture in a water pipe on the promenade deck while an awning on the newly revamped outdoor eating area had been torn to shreds. All goes to show that these winds and seas were a little more than usual.
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| We spent over half an hour at the first location taking so many photos and then realised that all the others had got back on the bus leaving only us with our guide. We went to a separate stop near the border with Norway, pulled off the road next to the frozen lake of Vassijaure, plodded through knee deep snow to the lake edge and spent the next 45 minutes or so photographing the most amazing aurora spectacle. Again, most of our fellow passengers went back to the bus after 15 minutes or so leaving only us with our guide. We were mesmerised! |
So a normal sea day, with normal activities, except we have to pack this afternoon to leave our cases outside by 02.00 so we can pick them up nice and early, probably before 09.00 tomorrow. It's very sad.
A final cocktail evening where we were given the opportunity to meet a small group of crew from various positions. Not the chefs or restaurant staff though, they were busy with first sitting. We did get chance to thank them though as they all paraded through up and down stairs. It is a noticeable thing on Fred Olsen, how much the staff are appreciated and how happy they seem to be which makes us all happy, and probably makes them happy again. It really does make for a special experience.
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| I took so many photos its difficult to know how many to put on here or pick the best ones. What I did notice was that someone had a Samsung Galaxy phone that took better photos than me. It brought out the red colour much more clearly, but I captured red slightly in this photo. This was an 8 second exposure, ISO setting 3200 but, what I should have done (I think) is increased the aperture and reduced the exposure to prevent the blurring from the moving aurora. Our guide was using a 2 second exposure and higher aperture. The first photo was one of hers and, you can see, its a sharper photo, but I'm still happy with mine |
Monday 14th
And it's all over. We were docked by 07.00 and despite being the last to be called we were in the car with all our luggage before 09.30. The motorway was fine and we dropped D&P off just after 12.30. Home, shop, unpack and relax, except obviously I've got to cook dinner and Brian has to wash up. And make coffee in the morning!
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| At one point the aurora faded and we thought that was it, until it came back even stronger. At this point I pointed straight up, increased the exposure to 30 seconds and got this great photo of The Plough constellation behind a faint aurora. At 30 seconds you can actually see the movement of the earth as the stars are slight streaks not pinpoints of light |
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| Staying at 30 second exposure I got this lovely one across the edge of the lake with a green and red aurora. It was quite dark and the lake difficult to see with the naked eye, but this long exposure makes it look like dusk |
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| Another of Veronicas (our guide) photos and they are better than mine |
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| Another of Veronica's photos at the first stop with an aurora as it appeared to our naked eyes |
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| We got back to the ship around midnight to be told we were last on and, straight after, they took the walkway in and we were off. We were supposed to be staying in port until midday on Monday, but our captain had decided to leave early to try to avoid a forecast storm. I looked on my 'Windy' app that can give sea forecasts and could see what he meant. If you click on the image you'll see forecast sea state was for 9.4m waves by Monday at 11:00am! |
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| A couple of photos Paul took as we sailed out of Narvik, a beautiful sunrise (around 11:00am) |
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| This is a stunning shot he got walking round on deck 3 after sunrise. It's just so atmospheric |
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| A couple of photos onboard as we sailed south in roughening seas towards Stavanger |
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| We were watching a performance in one of the bars |
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| After our failure to dock in Stavanger due to a force 9 gale, we headed back out into the North Atlantic into the teeth of the storm to sail south towards home. This photo was taken in Jackie's favourite room, the Observatory on deck 8, about 44m above the surface of the sea. This photo may not clearly show it but we were in a force 12 hurricane, with wind speeds in excess of 65 knots (about 75mph) onto our port side, with seas of 6-8m. The ship is leaning quite noticeably to the right due to the wind force on our port side. Looking to the left (behind me), only sky is visible, can you see to the right of the photo, only sea is visible, such was our list. On several occasions waves broke over the whole vessel, drenching this window in water, so those breaking waves hitting the bow produced a spray over 120 feet high! Walking around was 'interesting'. Were we worried? Yes, or at least I was. We did wonder what the ship was designed to withstand and whether we were reaching its limits. Certainly the captain sounded fairly relaxed on the tanoy, but he would wouldn't he! |
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| The sea, even from 44m above it, looked pretty angry and I did wonder that if we ever had to abandon ship in these conditions our survival expectancy must be zero |
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| However, life on board carried on and, by evening we'd sailed through it into much calmer waters. Here's Jackie in one of her posh frocks |
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| And on our second to last night a formal evening, so we posed for a photo |
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| Early evening on our last night (in the calm seas of the North Sea sailing past Hull) we gathered for our last early evening quiz with drinks before dinner |
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| Again before dinner, but after the early evening quiz, it was our Captains Farewell party, where he introduced us to all the people in charge of driving the ship (driving probably isn't the right word, but whatever!), who was currently driving then? He didn't answer that |
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| However there were free drinks (lots of them) and canapes, so we weren't too bothered as to who was driving! |
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This was from our dining table in the main restaurant. Captain had introduced us to all the main crew, but not the restaurant staff as they were serving to first sitting (we were second sitting). So here they all are parading and waving from the stairs
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| And these were our table staff, Roberto from The Philippines on the right and Ragmanee from Thailand on the left (and the reflection of the waiter taking the photo in the mirror!). So that's our cruise, we achieved our main objective, which was to see the Northern Lights and we took in some interesting history of the battle of the Atlantic with a fabulous speaker and sights in Narvik. We saw some interesting buildings in Alesund and climbed to the top of a splendid viewpoint and had a great train journey through the highlands of Norway to the Swedish border. An unscheduled experience was the force 12 hurricane and 6-8m seas in the North Atlantic, something we won't forget and was better than most funfair rides. An added bonus was spending time with my sister Denise and Paul - a great trip and special memories |
