South America, Days 117 to 124 - Stage 23: The Falkland Islands to Buenos Aires

At Fitzroy war memorial on The Falklands. Ex servicemen, who had just kayaked around the islands in memory of their fallen comrades, conduct a ceremony. Fitzroy (incorrectly referred to as Bluff Cove, which is further along the coast) was the site of the bombing of the RFA Sir Galahad and RFA Sir Tristram by Argentine aircraft, killing 48 British soldiers on 8th June 1982. The ex soldier in the green beret to the right of the memorial was at the scene on that day, helping to get injured soldiers ashore, when the Sir Tristram was bombed. He told us with tears in his eyes that he watched the bombers come in, release their load and the next moment 'all my mates were dead'. Jackie gave him a hug

Day 117 Tuesday 

The Falkland Islands 

The Falklands was probably the biggest challenge of the trip, it is a tender port, and notoriously difficult to visit. Captain Antonio has had it scheduled 6 times, and managed it once

We had booked our own tour on the Falklands as all the ship tours were history or penguins. Obviously King penguins at Volunteer Point were a huge temptation, but they were an all day trip so we had to forego them as history is important too. I'd posted on the Facebook group and found Jane and Simon to join our trip, and reduce the price. They have become very friendly with Nick and Jeurgan from Germany who asked if they could join our trip to Volunteer Point. I explained we weren't going there and I wasn't sure they'd fit, but they spoke to Wayne, and they said they would sit in the back, which is fine except Nick is 6'4" and they are in one of the prime suites at the back of the ship. They had certain expectations! Add to this Jane's most sensible shoes are little pink, suede, moccasins..... We were getting a bad feeling.

I know it doesn't look  much like it, but this is a Commersons dolphin swimming alongside our tender as we were transported into Stanley harbour from our ship on the Falklands.

Firstly, the weather was extremely kind though apparently we were being chased by 9m waves across the Drake Passage. 

Secondly, they let the first tender go with independent tours rather than ships tours 

Getting off the tender at Port Stanley harbour

Thirdly the 'boys' did get into the back, though I couldn't let them stay there all day, but they did get in, and we had a brilliant day, though I was getting a little twitchy towards the end. We weren't the last tender back, but we did take the staff and the hot chocolate with us, so we weren't many before!

Welcome to The Falklands, check your boots and disinfect them here!

Our first stop was at Fitzroy, where the Sir Galahad and the St Tristan were bombed in the war. There were three memorials here. We got out of the Land rover Discovery to find 7 ex service men, and their support. The guys had all served on the Falklands and had just kayaked around the Island, they were still wearing their drysuits and kayak skirts and were coming to finish with a few words. Very moving, very emotional and the experience that you just can't plan. Talking to a guy who said he turned round to see all his mates 'just gone' and having to hug him until he stopped shaking. What a start to the day. Not to mention that as we were leaving the first coach turned up!

Our vehicle for the day, a Land Rover Discovery with 7 of us in. There's 6ft 4" Nick getting into the back

We continued on towards the inter island ferry to look for penguins, and there, on the hillside, a good kilometre from the sea, were penguins Gentoo penguins who waddled off as we drove up, but after we got out and stood quiet and still turned round and waddled back towards us. They were inspecting us as much as we were inspecting them, getting closer and closer, until they decided we were boring and headed off.

Jackie, Jane, Simon, Nick, our guide Wayne and Juergen at Fitzroy

To me, these were the two absolute highlights of the day, but we stopped at other memorials, that no doubt Brian will write about. We stopped at a second beach for Magellanic penguins and the hope if a King penguin, but he wasn't there. We quizzed Wayne about island life which is really remote. Although financially they are independent they have to import everything from milk to bananas (which cost between £1-£1.50 each). All kids who obtain the correct grades are then financed to go to Winchester or Chichester to university or to learn a trade. Most of them, surprisingly, then seem to go back. Stopped for lunch at the strangest little hotel, and went to the smallest museum, that had been moved, after the owner of the farm where it was previously situated had escorted some Argentinian visitors off at the end of his shotgun!

The ex servicemens kayaks at Fitzroy after their mammoth kayak. This little cove was central during the rescue of soldiers from the stricken ship and was where most of the dead and injured were brought ashore. Prince Andrew who was a helicopter pilot at the time, played a crucial part at the time, using the downdraft from his helicopter rotors to help push rafts ashore. He is held in great regard here from that time

It is a barren, desolate place. Difficult to get to by air or by sea. But, in its waters is as much oil as in the North Sea! An extra day to go and see the King penguins would have been good, but we can truthfully say that we had a great day, and we never need to go back!

Further along at Goose Green we saw the grave of Lt Nick Taylor, the first serviceman to die in the conflict when he was shot down on 4th May 1982

Day 119 Thursday 

Puerto Madryn 

We arrived in Argentina in the calmest waters imaginable. Dolphins, penguins and seals with breakfast, and then our penguin trip.

Near to New Haven cross island ferry port on the Falklands where our guide knew of a group of Gentoo penguins who nest in the heathland. When we first arrived the noise of the car disturbed them, but after standing quietly for a while they all came waddling up to us to give us a good looking over

A long day, with much travel to Punta Tomba to see Magellanic penguins. Lots of penguins. This is the same species we have seen in South Africa, and apparently are in Australia (though I thought those were little blue, fairy penguins). Despite this, we weren't expecting the temperature to be in the high 20's/low 30's after our weather of the last week and a half.

They came up to within 2m of us to have a really good look

They were an absolute delight, peering at us from their little burrows, or from the shade of the walkways we were on. Some young, some adult and some in moult. Sitting around, waddling about or showing their prowess in the crystal clear water. All too soon we had to be back on the bus for lunch, which was good, but many of us would much rather have just had a sandwich and more time with the penguins.

Until they decided they'd seen enough and turned away to get on with their days business

We did also tick off guanaco, rhea, a seal, a chimango and a guinea pig, so not a bad haul.

We are now rushing back to the ship for our departure to Montevideo. But tonight, once we are sailing, is White Night, the big party night. Phil and Jackie are meant to be saving a table for us, Caroline the whale lady, Robyn the geologist and whoever else they have invited, so hopefully we'll have a good evening.

The little community at Darwin that had a small, but interesting museum from the war. It was moved here from a farm at San Carlos after the local landowner escorted two Argentine visitors off his land. Feelings still run high here  

We did have a good evening, lots of chat and dancing with more food than we could possibly eat, particularly after the big lunch we'd been served. There is one young couple on the ship (30's?) who were invited to our table. They are traveling for a year and this is their bit of luxury which they say they have enjoyed. They did however look like they were at the worlds worst wedding surrounded by their parents and grandparents all dad dancing!

This is just how I imagined island life would be. This was our lunch stop in Darwin, at a small hotel in a community. Self service bar with honesty box, little indoor terrace overlooking moorland, a home prepared lunch and everyone seems to know everyone else. L to R is Wayne our local and native guide, Nick, Juergen, Simon helping himself (and us) to a beer and Jackie

Day120-121

At sea and arriving Montevideo 

The weather has changed dramatically, people are sitting outside on the sun deck and wearing shorts. Time is passing very quickly and we've picked up some new speakers who are also teaching some Argentine tango. Sadly they are only here for three days. The lesson only had 4 couples of which only one other came to the milonga so we had two almost private lessons. Having sat next to people both last night at dinner and today at lunch who we had never spoken to before, both of them congratulated us on our dancing. You just never know who is watching!

A moment of reflection. This is just round the hillside from Darwin, where we had lunch and the point Colonel H Jones met his death. I remember this story from the conflict. On 20th May 1982 he was moving round the far hillside from the left to try to take out a machine gun battery on top of the hill. Unbeknown to him some Argentine gunners were hiding in the dip in the foreground and shot him

Tonight we arrive in Montevideo and it is the Azamazing evening. A feat of logistics as anyone who applied for free tickets, so I guess between 600-700 of us, will be taken ashore, put onto buses and taken to the Teatro Solis for entertainment, cocktails and a show. It sounds good and we are looking forward to it, as Azamara 'virgins'. There are not many of us it has to be said. The person at the 'previous sailings' cocktail party last night, that obviously we weren't at, with the most nights on Azamara was over 600 nights. Don't think we'll ever get there!

There are many, many wrecks on the Falklands, mainly as this land is the first haven and safe harbour for ships attempting and failing to round Cape Horn. In a damaged state they often limped into the harbour, never to leave

I know it's not quite over yet, but this has been one, if not the, best thing we've done. We've met some lovely people, seen some spectacular scenery and some amazing wildlife. As the person who loves sea days and looks for whales from the windows of airplanes I have been in heaven. I know I wasn't the only person to cry in Paradise Cove where almost the only way to not see whales was to close your eyes! We have also been incredibly lucky with the weather. The ship, from the Captain down, is full of smiling, efficient, friendly people. One moan? The 4 singers and 2 dancers didn't present shows we thought as much of as on Fred Olsen, though this is probably not their fault, but that of the production company.

Brian has even been heard to admit that perhaps he does enjoy cruising. Itinerary dependent obviously!

The AzAmazing evening was absolutely that. Early dinner, bus to the theatre, photos with the captain and cruise director, welcome drink, show, masks, dancing, bus back to the ship, snacks, drinks and bed.

This is the wreck of the Lady Elizabeth, known locally as Lady Liz. She was damaged in a gale in 1913 trying to round Cape Horn and limped back here for repairs. The repairs were too high so she was abandoned in port, breaking her moorings in a gale in 1936 and was swept here where she rests today

Day 122 Montevideo 

A Sunday, so Montevideo was shut. I had been smugly telling anyone who would listen that I had a 10.00 appointment to buy Argentine tango shoes. We had been communicating since the housesit and she sent me lots of pictures less than a week ago. I messaged "see you soon" as we left the ship. Found the address which turned out to be her apartment, to find she wasn't there. She messaged to ask where we were. "At the theatre" (about a minutes walk from her apartment) "when?" "Now!" She said she was in Buenos Aires, but she'd get her mum to come over, about 11.00. "Do you speak Spanish?" She asked. "Only a little, but if you have WiFi we can use Google translate" she gave me her WiFi and password, but just before 11.00 another message that her mother was struggling with the heat and was a long way away. I think she didn't want to be alone in the apartment with two non Spanish speakers. She did however give me the name of her shop in BA, where sadly the shoes are all a little more expensive, but still cheaper than the UK.

A Harrier Jump Jet, icon of the conflict that helped turn the tide in favour of Britain

Day 123 Buenos Aires 

Most other people have gone on trips but as we are staying here a week we decided that washing, and then packing were more important.

Jobs done, and lunch eaten the heavens have opened, so we may just make it onto the bus to the cruise terminal for some WiFi rather than into the city for shoes, but we will see!

Walking to Cape Pembroke on the Falklands, near to Port Stanley and the airport

A lovely last evening with Phil, Jackie and Caroline. A few too many inclusive drinks, and a tango show and the cruise is over. It was fantastic.

Had a nice conversation with a New Zealand lady we met at first breakfast. She is traveling on her own because her husband didn't want to come. We asked whether she had gone to the solos and singles meet up which she hadn't as she wasn't even aware of it.

The propeller from the Atlantic Conveyor ship sunk during the conflict. This almost turned the tide of the war to Argentina as it was carrying a huge quantity of helicopters and supplies. It's loss meant a long march across barren mountains to retake Port Stanley. 

We know she did hook up with them as we saw her around the ship, but how lovely of her to come and thank me for talking to her and telling her about it as it had absolutely made her cruise which she had thoroughly enjoyed. We know we are very privileged to have time and we do try to give it freely, but it is still nice to be appreciated.

A Magellan penguin wanders the nearby beach with a few of his mates, but no King penguins as we were hoping

Day 124. Finally off the ship and BA

I was going to leave this till the next blog, not thinking I would have anything to add about the cruise. However, we left on a special breakfast. On curry buffet night (which was delicious) they were making masala dosa, which we typically had for breakfast when we were in India. I made some comment about wanting one for my breakfast. This was overheard by the Maitre d' who said I only had to ask in advance and it was possible. I thought no more of this until a few days ago when he stopped for a chat. I asked if it was possible, for our first morning in BA, when we were just planning laundry. He went off to check but the dough takes longer than that to prep, so it would have to be today. So that's what we had. I'm sure they were thrilled to have to find somewhere to put the special hotplate to cook the dosa in the kitchen, just for 2 pancakes, but they did and it was all delicious. How special does that make you feel?

The Govenors residence at Port Stanley 

Left disembarking till the last possible minute (09.00) and found out why Uber doesn't work at the port. The taxi cartel have it all stitched up. So cab to hotel which does not look like a hotel from the outside. Did some internet homework and went out shoe shopping. We bumped into Brian's two Australian dance partners en route which was lovely as being on the ship is like being in a small village with people to say hello to all over the place. (Though with less than 700 people on board it is bizarre that you can speak to people, even on the last day, who you have never seen before).

And this, dear friends, is the mainmast from the SS Great Britain. The ship, which was the first iron steam ship, built by Brunel in Bristol, UK, was finally abandoned here and left to rot. Enthusiasts raised funds to return the ship to its home dry dock in Bristol, floating it north across the Atlantic on a pontoon and restoring it to its former glory in Bristol, where we visited it last year. This bit they left behind

We went to Pepe Lopez shoes, as recommended by Carolina, our host and teacher, who is apparently quite famous. The Colombian teachers on the ship knew who she was. Pepe himself helped us, and he was lovely. I did tell him I couldn't buy the first pair of shoes I put on, and that we had to go and see Andrea from Montevideo, as we had been emailing a lot. He grimaced and said go to other shops, but don't go the there! It was only a 5 minute walk, but we knew exactly what he meant. Andrea's friend was there who greeted us with kisses when we said who we were, but service was poor and the shoes were really quite shoddily made. We went back to Pepe, so we've paid more, but they are beautiful, and appear to be really good quality.

First dance lesson at 18.30 which was great, just 6 of us, and not from Carolina, but a lovely couple. This then went onto an exercise class and then intermediate lesson, with a lot more people. It all got harder and our brains were fried! So a quick pint in the German pub, just round the corner, and bed.

Last photo from The Falklands. This is Christ Church Cathedral in Port Stanley, the southernmost cathedral in the world. Next to it is Whalebone Arch. We loved our visit here, despite its bleakness, it is so full of history and wildlife. An extra day here would have been fabulous as a visit to Volunteer Point to see the vast colony of King penguins would have been great. We saw other people photos from there with envy, but we were happy with what we managed to pack in to just one day. Lets be thankful we landed, something like 80% of intended landings don't take place due to bad weather

There were masses of bird and sea life happening all around us as we travelled, but getting good photos is hard. I have many photos of giant wandering albatross who like cruising with us, dolphins and whales but they are not really clear enough to put on here. I captured this nice photo of a giant Petrel, one of many who like to cruise past us 

Next stop was Puerto Madryn in Patagonia, Argentina and this is a baby Patagonian Rhea. I didn't manage to get a photo of the other babies and father, but they were there. It is interesting to note that it is only the father that takes care of the eggs and chicks until they can fend for themselves. The mother just visits male nests and, if she likes his nest, she lays her eggs there and goes off to the next nest to lay some more. She plays no further part in bringing up the infants, it's all on the male to do that

The peninsula of land over there is our destination toady. Punta Tombo reserve, given to the state by the farm landowner here, who couldn't control the colony of Magellan Penguins who came ashore and burrowed into the ground

We stick to the walkways, but the penguins can and do go anywhere

And remember, penguins have right of way. If they want to pass in front of you, stop and wait for them to go. It did happen to us, we all waited while he took his time, looking around, staring and waiting before wandering off to allow us to continue

It was a hot day and we don't think of penguins living in such temperatures. But they are adapted to this, losing the feathers around their eyes, just leaving pink skin showing to help get rid of heat. They go through a catastrophic moult when on land, which means they can't go back into the sea until new feathers have grown and they have oiled them to make them waterporoof after the mating season. They keep out of the heat by seeking shade, in this case, under our walkway

They live in burrows, often dug under spiky bushes for protection

Two little babies!

This is a native guinea pig. This was the only photo I got, I foolishly wanted to zoom in when it was in the open, but he was very fast moving and everytime I got him focussed he'd run off. This was my last chance before he disappeared off. I shouldn't have focussed in, accepted a poorer quality photo and had a much better chance of capturing a photo

Guanacos live here too. Closely related to Llama, Alpacca and Vicuna in South America, distantly related to camels in Asia, when the continents were all together

They gather in their thousands along the shore learning how to swim and fish

But watch out, there are fur seals around waiting to eat you!. Orca visit here in season too and prey on them, but not at this time

This was a small, safe bay where the young penguins could learn to swim for the first time. It was a bit like watching snorkelers get in for the first time, they ducked their heads underwater and waggled their little wings to start swimming, often looking quite ungainly

They don't all make it, but they are food for someone. Here a Petrel tucks into a deceased penguin

I put this nice photo of a bird that confounded both our local guide and Caroline, our onboard wildlife expert who was on the same trip as us. It dived down to catch fish and would be underwater for sometime. Google lens thinks it is a Grebe of some sort

Here's a penguin just learning the ropes of this swimming lark!

We were here!

White night party night back on board. This is Jackie R and she told me not to publish it. Well, it illustrates how the evening went, wild and great fun

This is Caroline, our onboard wildlife expert. We got to know her really well during the voyage and she is great fun. I took her on the floor for a dance and, knowing I could dance she told me not to do anything fancy, to which I twirled her round. She said to stay at the back so no-one would take photos, but when we turned round the official ship photographer was there to take our photo. Te-hee!

This was my effort at an arty photo. The light at the back is the sun setting, but it didn't really come out. Singing is Stephen, our very talented cruise director. The guy on the saxaphone was extremely good (as they all were), he did several solo sessions which were great

At the end of it the singers and dancer jumped, fully clothed into the pool. Others got a much better photo, but this was mine

Here we are next day in Montevideo, capital of Uruguay. This sparsely populated country only has just over 3 million people, nearly half of which live in the capital

For us, the first night there we were treated to the whole ship being taken out to the magnificent Teatro Solis for an Azamazing production of local singers and dancers

Before we even got in the door we were treated to a spectacle

And there, on the doorstep was our captain and cruise director to greet us

Taking our places inside this amazing theatre. There Phil, Jackie R, Jackie, Caroline (wildlife expert) and Robyn (Geology expert)

I took this panorama shot to try to get it all in, but is doesn't do it justice

The captain and cruise direction open the show and what a show it was. I didn't take any photos as I only had my phone camera and it wouldn't take good photos in this light. Others took amazing photos, but hey! It lives in our memories!

The party continued outside the theatre with loud drumming, music and dancing until we disappeared away on the bus back to the ship. Such a fabulous night out and, for us, it continued onboard with more drinking and dancing until late

Next day for us was a walk round Montevideo, a nice but faded and slightly grubby city, in which eveything was closed for a Sunday. No museums, no shops and very few cafe's and bars. This is Independence Plaza and a gateway that remains from an earlier citadel. Even the plaza was closed due to preparations for the swearing in of a new president in a few days. For us, we had a date with a tango shoe seller, that turned out to be in vain, as I think Jackie mentioned in her notes

Independencia Plaza

Uruguay Presidencia building overlooking the plaza

Next to the old presidential building now a museum (closed on Sundays!)

Interesting sculptures along the main street. A bronze man climbing climbing up to his hearts desire, overlooked, it seems, by the woman scorned right at the top on the right

But of real interest to me were some salvaged items from the Graf Spee, a German battleship scuttled in the mouth of the river Plate, a few hundred meters off the coast here, during a major confrontation with three British battleships in 1943 during WWII. The Battle of the River Plate was made into a really good black and white film and recounts the story very well. We'll have to watch it again when we get home

The noticeboard here has a nice noticeboard on it. There's the Graf Spee in its heyday and, below, during its scuttling when the captain set off the explosions and went down with his ship. It still lies on the seabed but is now fully broken up and in the process of being removed 

More salvaged pieces from the Graf Spee

More pieces with our ship behind. As we sailed away I did take some photos of the exact spot when the ship went down. There's a salvage ship in position now with nothing to be seem. I wanted to put a photo on, but I don't know what I've done with them now. Too many photos! Anyway, it's just a shot of the sea with a ship and Montevideo in the background. I even broke off our onboard Argentine Tango lesson to get them too! 

Last day at sea and another fabulous sea sunset

Last night party with Phil, Jackie and Caroline too. We had a few too many of these, Phil and Jackies favourite drink, I can't remember what its called now, but alcohol it contained!

A fine end to a fabulous cruise and all the new friends we've met - cheers!

As a finale, hope you've read this far, our captain made a farewell speech over the radio on our last day that was fabulous, and summed up the trip entirely. Here is what he said (he's a bit of a Star Trek fan):

Captain’s Log star date 2025.02.21

Captain Antonio F. Toledo recording

We set out on this journey as travellers. We return as something more. The waters we crossed were not always calm. The path was not always clear. But that is the essence of exploration. To face the unknown, not with fear, but with wonder. To stand on the edge of the world and take one more step.

We have sailed through the mighty Patagonian Channels, rounded the legendary Cape Horn, braved the unpredictable Drake Passage and ventured to the frozen heart of Antarctica - a place so wild, so untouched, that even now, it defies description.

And what did we find? Not just ice and wind. Not just towering glaciers and endless horizons. No. We found something greater. We found that adventure is not in the destination - it is in the journey. In the moments when we stood together, in silent awe, watching nature in its purest form. In the shared laughter as we adjusted course to the ever - changing will of the sea. In the realisation that the final frontier is not just some distant star - it is here, on this world, in places few have dared to go.

To my crew - you have been more than officers, more than crew members, more than sailors. You have been explorers, pioneers, guardians of a grand tradition. You have taken steel and rivets and turned them into something greater- a ship worthy of the voyage.

To our guests- you have answered the call of adventure. You embraced the unexpected. You met the wild with open hearts and open minds. You now know what it means to stand at the end of the world and feel alive.

The universe reveals its secrets not to those that demand them, but to those bold enough to seek them. And in seeking, we learn. We grow. We become something greater than we were before.

As we chart our next course - wherever it may take us - remember this: The journey never truly ends. There is always another horizon. Always another mystery waiting to be uncovered. Always another adventure… There are always possibilities….Spock said….I must return to this place again…

And when that moment comes, when the sea calls you once more, answer.

This trip will never end as long as we remember it.

I have been your friend, and I shall always be.

Live long and prosper

Captain Antonio F. Toledo

Master of the Azamara Journey