Our tent in Masai Mara. They are not bad are they, don't know what Fiona was moaning about. She'd better get used to it, we have two more tent camps on the way!
Day 4
Masai Mara, today.
Up and out at 07.00. after Fiona's first night in a tent. It's not camping as you would expect but she claims not to be a tent girl. There will be more however! Elephants ordered for today and almost within minutes of entering the park Anthony was off down a little side track, on our own, away from the masses. He says he has a good nose, and we believe him as suddenly there they were. It is amazing how something so big can appear and disappear, but what a first sighting.
This could easily turn into a wildlife photo blog as we saw everything. When asked what else we wanted to see we were struggling to thing of an animal we hadn't seen. This photo of elephants, which we found and saw on our own with no-one else around not only completed our sighting of the Big 5, it was also special to hear not a sound except the ripping of vegetation as their trunks wrapped round their local delicacy
Out on the plains there were wildebeest and zebra as far as we could see, though apparently this wasn't many. The wildebeest did their thing of one walking off to be followed, in single file, by the rest of the herd. We've seen it on the TV, and now really seen it.
Great to see the Wildebeest on their Great Migration. Here they are gathered at a river crossing summoning up the courage to cross the crocodile infested river. We waited half an hour and nothing happened and it may be that they still haven't crossed yet. This is at the south of the Masai Mara and the border with Tanzania and south from here is the huge, open Serengeti, giving the animals one of the largest wildlife areas in the world for their 3000km migration
We drove to the Mara River, close to the Tanzania border where the Masai Mara becomes the Serengeti with the hope of seeing all the wildebeest crossing. They weren't up for this, but we did see hippo, masses of hippo along with a few crocodile, but amazing numbers of hippo.
The hippo and crocidile infested Mara River. We gave up trying to count the hippos, there were hundreds if not thousands
Lunch was a packed lunch, seated under a tree, in the middle of the plain, what an experience.
How many hippos? Don't bother counting, this was only one pod, there were hundreds more pods
Afternoon was the hunt for cheetah as we hadn't seen any yet and this was the place apparently. Anthony has 100% success rate apparently and didn't want to lose it so was very happy when we came upon a nest of 5 all spark out under the trees. The odd head movement, and we knew they were there, but we didn't get a good enough photo to make our neighbour jealous. (Cheetah being the only thing they wanted to see that they didn't on their honeymoon). I however was actually more excited by the serval that I spotted, me, not Anthony, just sauntering along minding it's own business. Absolutely beautiful.
Lying in the sun and then deciding a swim was in order
As ever there will be many more pictures than words, but another splendid 11 hour day. Bedtime is getting earlier and earlier, as morning is too. Bed by 20.30, up at 03.50 for our dawn balloon flight!
There's a big crocodile lazing in the river along with a least six of his mates, all waiting for Wildebeest to make their break across the river. There was even a dead Wildebeest close by that no-one touched. Food is obviously plentiful at this time of year
Day 5
Did start very early, made worse in that we weren't coming back to the hotel after the flight so we had to get all the luggage out too, but hey, now we've convinced Fi&J that they can't unpack every night it's getting better! We had been told that we might get zebra wandering past the tents in the night. I'm not sure I believed them though there was two sorts of poo as we walked about, but I take it all back, there they were in front of me as I towed my bag to reception.
Lunch in the bush
An hour and a half drive to the launch site, by balloon driver Peter, for not just us but 20 or so other balloons of 16 people each! Not a toilet in sight, but fortunately it's still dark. Easy for the men and an absolute no no for Fiona! It will be interesting to see if she lasts the whole holiday without using a ' bush toilet'. Fi&J had both been unsure about the balloon flight, Fi just in general and James because he has a real fear of heights, their FOMO overrode it!
We have sooooo many really good photos, trying to decide which ones to put on here is incredibly difficult. This is a Serval cat and apparently they are very difficult to spot as they are shy. Not a problem for Jackie as she can spot a cat at 100m. Stop! she yelled and we managed to take lots of photos
Briefing by Captain Spencer, from the UK, allocated our area in the basket, 4 per compartment , and in we got. Perfect take off, amazing view of the moon and the sunrise, a romantic proposal for a very surprised girl in the compartment behind us (tears from her, and from James who is the biggest softy I know). All we need now is a good landing, one bounce, two bounces and a very slow topple over and there we all are lying on our backs laughing.
What else can I put on? Here's a young male lion, but I have photos of hyena.... oooh, cheetah, lets put one of those on....
In to the jeep with Peter who along with all the other drivers, and tractor and trailers had been following us as we floated along. To our champagne breakfast, this is the only thing that kept Fi going and it was worth the wait. Set up in the the bush the full buffet breakfast, omelette stations everything, and fizz.
Sleeping cheetah in the shade of a bush on a hot afternoon. How many? We think possibly 5 but it was difficult to count and they didn't really move while we were there
An amazing experience, agreed by all, Fi&J have both said they loved it and would do it again, so that's good.
And we were there loving it all
Peter took us to meet Anthony so now a few hours drive to lake Naivasha.
Animals have right of way!
A boat ride with an island walk was the schedule for today but we've had a minor rebellion. Thunder and rain put us off a boat ride. We know we've got an 8 hour drive tomorrow but can we chill (in this very nice hotel) this afternoon, do boat ride and walk at 07.00 tomorrow and forego chilling tomorrow afternoon?
Difficult to see in this photo, but there is a lioness just to the left of that little hump of grass towards the right. She had the full attention of these zebra and the huge herd of them off to the right along with a massive quantity of Wildebeest.
Hurrah, the answer was yes
She didn't seem in any rush to hunt though so just rolled over and lazed in the sun. No shortage of food if she wanted it, why not enjoy yourself! I could go on and on posting fabulous pictures but I'm going to move on now to our balloon flight the next day
Late addition by Brian:
I'm chilling in the room while the others go on the boat ride on Lake Naivasha, something I ate last night didn't agree with me so I've been up and down in the night. Enough said about that, but I'm starting to get myself together now and will hopefully be OK for the 8 hour drive in an hours time. Fingers crossed! So while they are away I thought I'd add a few things and try and get this posted.
So many photos of this amazing trip. But I put together a Youtube video which I invite you to watch. Its about 6.5 minutes long and has some great footage in it with some Wildebeest and zebra migrating
It was a fairly uneventful journey here, Anthony driving on tarmac roads so we weren't being bumped around too much, apart from the odd sections of potholes and the frequent speed bumps as we passed through towns. It did turn into a two kitten day though. The tiny kitten James found hiding behind some cabinets at one stop he managed to coax out while Jackie was looking in the shops. By the time she came back it was confident enough to be picked up and cuddled by the two of them and finally passed on to another couple as we were leaving. A second stop and James found another kitten that didn't mind being picked up, so they were both happy.
Here it is, give it a watch, I think you'll enjoy it
The hotel we are staying in, Lake Naivasha Country Club is right on the lake and has extensive grounds spreading down to the lake with cottages spread around and a very nice main area with a restaurant that had tables outside on a balcony overlooking the grounds and lake. Nice place to have a drink and Fionas first experience of the lightning speed of the monkeys when one swooped in and grabbed the orange slice from the top of her drink. Good job her mobile phone wasn't on the table, it might have had that instead and she had to be reminded again and again not to leave it out, particularly as they were always lurking waiting for an opportunity. Apart from the monkeys, the first sign we had that things were different here was when the reception staff advised us to ring zero on the phone if wanting to leave our room after dark at 6:00pm as we would need an escort as hippos usually get out of the water and graze on the grass outside our rooms.
Early morning start and our balloon is half filled with a powerful fan to blow air in which is then heated
Sure enough, straight after darkness there they were quietly munching all over the lawn. Not one, but more than half a dozen along with their babies, minding their own business. Not only that, but lots of zebras, deer and finally a big group of giraffes munching the foliage. The security guards were happy to escort us as close as they dared take us to allow us to take lots of photos and, with good wifi, Fiona could have a video call with her kids (adults!) to show them back home.
Fabulous views from up here. To see many more, have a look at the Youtube videeo above
A surreal evening meal, drinking and eating with hippos and wild animals and we had to leave our table on several occasions during the meal when a great photo opportunity occurred. Definitely a meal we won't forget!
And a lovely moment where a man from Hong Kong proposed to his girlfriend. She said yes!
Back to Jackie writing:
Day 6
After the excitement of last night we still had early nights. I did hear a noise about 01.30 and looked out to see a giraffe stripping the bark from a tree just outside. That's not normal! That was pretty much it for the night as Brian then woke up feeling not very good! He didn't come out on the boat, and we are now half way through the 8 hour drive to Amboseli and he seems to be on the mend!
A great champagne breakfast in the bush afterwards
It was just 3 of us for the boat which was a big fibreglass canoe. James doesn't like the water but he manfully got in! It was so still and calm, at 07.15, it was beautiful. A bird and hippo spotting trip, successful on both, a hippo pod or blot (or nest if you are me) and much entertainment from the fish eagles as Moses our guide would whistle and throw a fish for them to swoop in and snatch from the water. Obviously without Brian we are down to phone camera pictures though Fiona did get some great video of the eagles.
First kitten stop on the drive to Lake Navaisha
Again, without Brian, we didn't go on the walk as we had to get back to the hotel to collect him. We knew it was on Crescent Island, but didn't know that the animals had all been imported for the filming of Out of Africa with Meryl Streep in the '80's. So although it would have been interesting it was also a bit artificial, though safe as they know what is there and that there are no predators.
Second kitten experience with James
A long drive got us through Nairobi and out the other side to Amboseli our home for 2 nights. We stopped before checking in at the Maasai village where we were welcomed, danced with, shown around and ripped off for some curios. We knew we were paying over the odds but it was impossible to say no and we'll treat it as a charitable donation. I do like my elephant though.
Our hotel at Lake Navaisha suggests you are on your own if you go outside after dark!
Day 7
After breakfast out at 7.00, it's funny how alarm at 05.45 is acceptable to us all, already! Many many elephants in Amboseli, an absolute joy to see. Some beautiful birds, but no predators and no view of Kilimanjaro, so rather than lounge by the pool we are out again at 16.00. The upside of no view of Kilimanjaro is that it's cloudy so although it was horribly dusty, it wasn't as horribly hot as we were expecting.
And for good reason, the hippos come out of the lake at night and graze in the grounds of the hotel
Not only hippos, but giraffes too. You can see them in the distance on the left
Here's another photo of the giraffes next to the zebra who all came to munch on the vegetation. It was a memorable evening!
Just found this photo of everyone on our balloon flight. Our captain Spencer is kneeling in the front centre
Early evening at the hotel on Lake Navaisha and a monkey has just stolen the orange slice from the top of Fiona's drink
Nearing our camp at Amboseli NP we visited a Maasai village and met the chief to be, named Ben
We had a welcome dance, for just the four of us, where they got us involved dancing
They live in fairly basic houses, replaced every 7 years. They are made of wood with cow manure for plaster and grass roofs
Inside one of the huts with a Maasai
Before we left Lake Navaisha yesterday James, Fiona and Jackie went on a boat ride to an island while Brian nursed his upset tummy. Here's James on his way to the boat
Hippos lounging in the lake amongst trees. This island was used for the 'Out of Africa' film starring Meryl Streep
The are no predators on the island so the giraffes, zebras, hippos wildebeest and deer can live in peace and safety
Being shown to our 'tent' at Amboseli. The walls are brick, the roof is canvas but thats covered with a tiled roof
Next to our tent was a walkway leading to a viewing platform for Mount Kilimanjaro, just over the border in Tanzania. Unfortunately cloud has covered it since we arrived
Today we went into Amboseli NP which would have amazing views of Mount Kilimanjaro as a backdrop to all the wildlife, but unfortunately cloud covered it. This was our first sighting in the park, Africa's smallest antelope, the dik-dik. Cute little thing, this one's a male as you can just make out little horns
Today was a mammoth day for elephants, the park is famous for them and they really put on a show
I took this video of a group of elephants crossing the track in front of us
Fiona wanted her photo taken in front of an elephant
And birds too. This one's a Lilac Breasted Roller
These are Bee Eaters who always seem to fly around in pairs
This is a grey headed kingfisher
Lots of flamingoes, I think these are lesser flamingoes (they are pinker)
But you don't often see Wildebeest paddling with flamingoes, particularly as the one on the right appears to have three flamingoes on his head
Why did the ostrich cross the road? Or, as James calls them, Emu's (native to Australia). Even Anthony mistakenly called them Emu's today!
An unmistakable African landscape, elephant reflected in a lake with a Wildebeest ambling by
Giraffe with elephants, another African landscape
Elephants with hippo
This old male elephant was on his own and waited patiently to cross the road as all the tourist vans were blocking his way. We moved away and, eventually all the others went and he immediately crossed the road to get to this watering hole. He looked a sad old boy
Unlike these much happier female elephants with their young playing together
One having his milk off mum
I caught this Bateleur eagle just taking off
Here's a wallowing hippo with a couple of birds on his back
This was a big family of elephants wallowing in a marsh but I focused on this mum and baby as baby was almost out of his depth
I'm going to force myself to stop posting photos now, I have taken an average of 250 photos a day of which 90% I think are fabulous, these are just a few examples.
Just to finish, I wanted to post this Youtube video of the four lions we saw on our first day at Lake Nakuru I tried to post it on the last blog but the wifi was not good enough. Have a look, we think its fabulous.
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