Stonehenge to Glastonbury Tor

Iconic Stonehenge and the summer solstice stone

Stonehenge, perhaps 4 to 5000 years old and Glastonbury Tor believed by some to be the legendary Isle of Avalon, a possible location of the Holy Grail and links to King Arthur and Guinevere are two places we've explored in the last week.

It's my second visit to Stonehenge, the first, probably nearly sixty years ago was very different from today. The same stones, but now they are fenced off (except for the summer solstice) and English Heritage want you to pay £19.50 per adult, £17.50 seniors (off season rate, more in the summer). For that you can visit a museum at the visitor centre 1.5 miles away and get a free shuttle bus to the stones. We didn't do that, we got our bikes out at the Stonehenge Touring Park (grid ref: 51°12'27.1"N 1°54'54.5"W), 3.5 miles away and, taking our route from the campsite owner (nice bit of local knowledge) headed firstly north on a bridleway, fine for our full suspension mountain bikes, and then east on a tarmac path adjacent to a military base on Salisbury Plain for a couple of miles, then south to the visitors centre and the along the old A303 road (now gated and restricted to walkers, cyclists and the shuttle bus) to Stonehenge (grid ref: 51°10'42.6"N 1°49'34.1"W).

A sign you don't see everyday. We wanted to see a tank!

The cycle alongside the military base was fun, just a huge open plain that the Royal Artillery use for target practice. On the way back we did see some military vehicles towing big guns through the bushes and some military personnel, but we didn't see any action. We really wanted to see at least one tank rumbling by on the gravel track the other side of our tarmaced public bridal way, but despite the frequent signs indicating tanks, the red flag flying, indicating danger, don't trespass, you might get shot and 'don't pick anything up, it might explode', we didn't see anything of real note. A pity, but it did feel mildly exciting, particularly when we weren't entirely sure we should have been there. The man walking his dog that we passed did reassure us it was OK (and also pointed out a track we could use to see some old tank wrecks that are used for target practise. It was when he mentioned the steep hill we'd have to cycle up that Jackie switched off and gave a definite 'no'). Decided not to take any photos, they can get funny and, abroad, you risk getting locked up. Not worth the risk (have a look at our short Relive video showing our route with photos: click here).

The concrete markers at Woodhenge

Back to Stonehenge and, as we arrived we took the public bridleway that leads to a track on the other side of the low wire fence. The track taken by those who have paid lots of money is the other side of the fence, so they are perhaps 2m closer to the stones than those who haven't paid. We'd heard this and decided we'd rather use the money saved for a meal out. It apparently is possible to walk within the stone circle by purchasing VIP passes at even greater expense, but having already done that for free many years ago it was not on our 'must do' list.

What they think Woodhenge may have looked like

Archaeologists believe they were built sometime between 2000 and 3000BC (1000 years is quite a range!) and there is evidence of settlements there up to 8000 years ago. Old they definitely are, intricate for the time they definitely are, the horizontal bits spanning the verticals (they probably have a name but I don't know it) appear to be held in place by a raised blob at the top of a vertical fitting into a corresponding hole in the horizontal. The verticals are estimated to weigh 25 tonnes and the horizontals less, but still considerable. How did they construct them? Was the stone sourced somewhere in South Wales and brought here? Are the central Bluestones from a previous stone circle that were re-used and brought here? How did they get them here and get them upright? But, most of all: why? No-body really knows but the 'experts' put forward their informed ideas, but that's all they are, ideas. Aligned so sunrise on midsummers day falls in an exact spot always means druids and people with pagan beliefs come here in their droves at midsummer, and the reason they open it up for that one day, but according to the security guard we chatted to, midwinter and the equinoxes draw huge crowds too (the midwinter one less so 'cause its cold!). We stopped and chatted to the hippy type lady sitting crosslegged in line with the midsummer marker who she said was praying for peace in the world, a noble gesture, lets hope it does some good. She told us we should go to Woodhenge, about 2 miles away so, getting back on our bikes, off we went.

Our lovely campsite in Glastonbury at the foot of the Tor (on the left in the distance)

The route goes along The Drovers track with views all the way back to Stonehenge. Our Searchforsites app told us there is free motorhome camping to be had there and the many motorhomes and tents there confirmed this. It did look a bit like a gypsy camp, the track was very pot holed and we wouldn't have fancied bringing Big Ted down there, nor have felt that safe. We'd rather pay £17 in a nice campsite with toilets, showers and free wifi. Are we getting old?

Brutus the friendly camp cat

Anyway, we finally arrived at Woodhenge after cycling past many military houses behind barbed wire fences and found it on top of a hill (of course) with great views all around. Woodhenge, the clue's in the name, it was made of wood, long since rotted away. The holes found in the ground now have low concrete pillars installed showing the rough layout and showing that it was aligned to summer solstice sunrise and winter solstice sunset. Free to go in this one and it was quite interesting. The information board told a lot about what they found and had their usual ideas about what it may have looked like, including an artists impression, which may have been correct, or could be completely wrong. No-one knows. So, apart from my 5km run from the campsite towards the military base and back (I have only one run left on the Couch to 5km app now) that was our trip to Stonehenge. 

He was the softest cat and made Big Ted his own

Approaching the top of the Tor

We did make a phonecall to Vanbitz, the people in Taunton who fitted the alarm and immobiliser on Big Ted when he was new. It has been working well up until getting him out of storage but now its registering a fault. We went through their self help website, isolating each of the sensors in turn, but couldn't find it (we bet a mouse has chewed through one of the wires!) so rang them up. They won't talk to us as it was still registered to the original owners. If we send them a copy of the V5 (vehicle registration document) and £40 they'll change it to us. I lost my sense of humour at this point and told him what I thought, so I had to leave it to Jackie after that. We paid the £40, Jackie phoned them but they told us nothing more than we knew. They'll have to book it into their workshop at £72 per hour (it could take 2 hours) and, if we want to we can use their campsite at £22, next to their workshop on the edge of Taunton. We booked it in for Tuesday 16th booked the campsite for the nights of 15th and 16th and rearranged our booking at Salisbury for the following week that was now conflicting with that. All good we thought, until John back in Alvechurch emailed our post through, which contained a letter from Vanbitz confirming our appointment for 23rd November! A phone call today to the same man we spoke to confirmed that. We both heard 16th, we wrote it down, but he claims he had said 23rd. No he didn't! However, he has a cancellation on Wednesday 17th so hopefully we should get it sorted. Not very impressed so far with Vanbitz though. Guess I'll have to hold my tongue on Wednesday!   

The the arch of St Michaels church

We left Stonehenge Touring Park and headed for Glastonbury Cottage Camping (grid ref: 51°08'30.5"N 2°41'47.9"W) at the bottom of Glastonbury Tor and 1.5 miles outside of Glastonbury itself. Sticking straight out of relatively flat landscape the Tor is quite a sight and rightly takes it's place in legend and mythology. The flat land around is at or below sealevel and used to be one huge bog, so it's quite possible the Tor did indeed look like a little Isle in the middle of a lake. It's from this that people have the idea that it is the legendary Isle of Avalon and linked to King Arthur and Guinevere and, on top are the ruins of St Michaels church, partially destroyed by an earthquake in 1275. Some believe King Arthur was brought up here after being injured in battle, others believe the Holy Grail is buried somewhere here. Legend also has it that the bodies of King Arthur and Guinevere we discovered in a grave in the grounds of the Abbey after it was destroyed by a fire in the 1100's. The skeletons were entwined with one another apparently and other things were found to support this theory. The monks who discovered them reburied them inside the Abbey. As word spread money rolled into the town which helped to rebuild the Abbey. Good marketing by the monks? Perish the thought! Anyway, on the dissolution of the monasteries during the reign of Henry VIII the remains disappeared, never to be seen again, so all we are left with now is the outline of a grave inside the ruined Abbey with a placard explaining this. It's a nice story anyway, whether or not it's true!

Fabulous views from the summit of the Tor

Views on the way down from the Tor

We saw the Abbey and grave during a tour of the ruins and grounds of the once massive Abbey, it's very peaceful and we felt our visit was worthwhile and it's nice to submerge yourself in these myths and legends, a nice escape! We wanted to see the thorn tree that apparently sprouted from the staff of one of the abbots, now considered holy and we located it, a fairly small tree in the corner of the grounds and a bit of an anti climax. Was it really the original tree? I must stop doubting these things!

The ruins of Glastonbury Abbey

Glastonbury does seem to be the hippy centre of the world, ley lines apparently converge here to add to the mysticism and every other shop appears to be offering hippy clothes, crystals or offering readings. The smell of joss sticks is almost overpowering. It's actually a fun place to be and people smile and are kind. Jackie thought she could become a hippy!

The plaque there says this was the place the monks found the remains of King Arthur and Guenevieve

And this was their reburial site, now empty

We went in twice, the first day after walking over Glastonbury Tor and then into town for that meal from the money saved from Stonehenge. The Crown, as recommended by the campsite owner had fabulous Thai and Vietnamese food which was so tasty, the beer was good and the atmosphere great. Everyone was kind! The second time we went in via another cross country walk to see Gog and Magog, two very old oak trees thought to be over 1000 years old (grid ref: 51°09'03.1"N 2°41'08.0"W). Gog had been damaged in a fire in 2017 and was definitely dead, but Magog still had living branches on a thick, gnarly old trunk. I took photos and I believe that they are over 1000 years old. I'm being kind!

And this is said to be the thorn tree that sprouted from an abbots staff. Looks a bit young to me, but what do |I know?

Gog and Magog 1000 year old oak trees

We stayed on Glastonbury Cottage Campsite for Sunday night, our third day and we were there completely on our own. Friday and Saturday nights were very busy, the five pitches all occupied but, by Sunday lunchtime everyone had packed up and gone home so we stayed on watching the sunset (just about) and watched the crowds of people on top of the Tor also watching the sunset. Should we have joined them? No, it was barely a sunset, just cracks in the cloud through which the setting sun poked through, the sky did go a nice shade of orange but nothing dramatic, but it was quite cool. Glad we stayed in and watched it through the window with a nice GnT with crisps!

One of the many murals in Glastonbury

Today we packed up and headed to the Vanbitz campsite on the edge of Taunton. It's called the Cornish Farm Touring Park (grid ref: 50°59'29.6"N 3°05'30.1"W) and, actually it's very pleasant. Very well laid out with spotless facilities, it really is very, very nice. I think I was secretly hoping it was going to be horrible to confirm my negative feelings towards Vanbitz! We have a day tomorrow in Taunton, which doesn't seem to have anything major going for it, it doesn't even get a mention in our Lonely Planet guide, but I'm sure there will be things to entertain us. Wednesday morning is the day we take Big Ted into the workshop just across the way from the campsite. I think I'll have to sit on my hands and say nothing, at least until they've fixed it. Who knows, they might be nice people, I just have to put my negative feelings to the back of my mind and smile!

Our lovely campsite in Taunton

After that, briefly back to Alvechurch to pick up new glasses for Jackie that are now ready and then back down to Salisbury.