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Our route in West Sumatra with Bukittinggi at the centre |
Bukittinggi, Harau Vallay and Danau (Lake) Maninjau roll off
the tongue, and most peoples itinerary together, although many visitors seem to
base themselves in Bukittinggi and do day trips, or an overnight to the two
places on organised trips. As we had more time and wanted to experience them on
our own, we decided to make our own way to each place and stay for a few days,
So it was with Harau Valley, on our last blog entry and again to Lake Maninjau
on this one.
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One of 6 little kittens in a shop in Bukittinggi |
In between we returned and stayed a night in Bukittinggi, we
could have done it in one go (if we were prepared to pay 500,000Rp - £25 per
person to Abdi Homestays preferred taxi service), but instead paid 250,000Rp
(£12.50) per person just to Bukittinggi, which we still think was overpriced.
Our onward journey from Bukittinggi to Lake Maninjau, booked by the fabulous Ling
at Hello Guesthouse was only 30,000Rp (£1.50) per person, confirming the
overpricing of Abdy’s, or at least his taxi service!
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Water buffalo haul a plough in a small paddifield at Lake Maninjau |
Hello Guesthouse is all that we’d hoped it would be,
fabulous modern room with balcony and Ling, the friendliest, most helpful
person we have met. She is quiet, modest, superbly efficient, unflappable and
knows everything! We need a shared taxi booked to Lake Maninjau, 30 seconds
later, that’s booked, we need a shared taxi booked back to Padang airport, 30
seconds, that’s booked, flight boarding passes printed, coach transfer ticket back
in the UK printed, she knows where to stay in Maninjau, how to get there and
back, how to catch the bus from KL airport to Melaka (another country for her!)
and even what the weather is like in Maninjau. As we said to a German couple we
met in a restaurant in Maninjau who also stayed at Hello Guesthouse and were
impressed with Ling ‘How does she know all this? She knows everything!’
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Stepped paddifields on the slopes above Lake Maninjau |
Lake Maninjau is actually a large caldera (
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Caldera) formed by a
volcanic eruption estimated to have occurred around 52,000 years ago. The lake
is 8km wide by 16km long, has a maximum depth of 165m, is 460m above sea level
and is surrounded by steep sided jungle clad slopes. The only access is the
road constructed by the Dutch from Bukittinggi that undulates over the lower
slopes and up to the crest of the crater where a fabulous view of the huge lake,
some 200m below, protected by steep sided jungle clad encircling cliffs fills
the entire view.
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Cloves and nutmeg dry in the sun |
The road then plunges down into the crater, through jungle
with occasional good views, round 44 hairpin bends (they are all numbered),
watched by monkeys sitting on the crash barriers. The road is good, but it’s
fairly narrow, so traffic can back up on the hairpin bends to give way to
traffic coming the other way, but we arrived at the lake in the town of
Maninjau where the road meets the 70km long circular lake road, told the driver
which hotel we wanted to be dropped off at, turned right and drove about 2km to
the Pasir Panjang Permai Hotel, whereby lies a story.
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The lizards of Pasir Panjang Permai Hotel! |
It seems that not many people visit this area anymore
and we’re not sure why. Our Lonely Planet guide says that ‘since the crash in
tourist numbers many locals have taken to fish farming on the lake to make ends
meet’ and certainly there are a lot of the square fish enclosures surrounded by
floatation devices and little huts with bags of fish food dotted about our side
of the lake. Some people have suggested that Indonesia tightened visa
regulations a few years back restricting the standard visa (which we have) to
30 days from 60 days and charging $25 and people stopped coming here. There is
talk that this is changing, we heard next month, to a free 90 day visa on
arrival, which may change things for the better if it does actually happen.
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Panorama of Lake Maninjau from the hotel |
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The better Tan Dirih Guesthouse from the Beachfront Restaurant |
The result is that the main town of Maninjau seems
like a ghost town, gently decaying. The hotels, guesthouses and homestays have
all seen better days, as have the restaurants, all still staffed with tired
looking people, and all seemingly waiting for the visitors who don’t arrive.
True we were here in the low season, seeing only a couple of other tourists (we
saw only three other white faces in our 4 days there), the high season is apparently
June to October and locals talk of more tourists here then, and although
undoubtedly true, we can’t help thinking a lot of it is optimistic wishful
thinking and the numbers are not that much more.
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Outside our room at the Tan Dirih Guesthouse |
The fish farming has certainly
had an effect on the lake, making the water quite green (but still with lots of
fish) and, although our LP guide says swimming is popular, we didn’t like the
look of it so didn’t go in. Lake Maninjau is visually more appealing than the
other crater-lake we visited, Lake Toba, but because of the fewer tourists it
lacks the facilities Toba has, which seems a real shame.
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The Tan Dirih cat plays with a large cicada one evening |
The driver stopped outside the lakeside hotel we
had chosen and we went into the large, old hotel spread along the lake front
and after looking at a number of very tired looking rooms with old bathrooms,
we chose a ‘Super Deluxe’ room with air-con, a big but very old room with large
balcony with old recliners right on the lake and Jackie negotiated a reduction
from 400,000Rp per night to 350,000Rp (still overpriced for what it was). We were
in a wing of the hotel well away from reception and we were the only people
staying there, which made it feel very creepy!
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The only bit of mechanisation for rice that we saw |
Jackie's TripAdvisor report on
our stay there was entitled 'Seen "The Shining" This is it!'(
http://www.tripadvisor.com/Hotel_Review-g680011-d1440397-Reviews-Hotel_Pasir_Panjang_Permai-Maninjau_West_Sumatra_Sumatra.html).
It was such a shame, the people there were friendly, although spoke little
English and the included breakfast was OK, but it just felt creepy! We woke on
both nights there to something screaming, maybe a monkey, maybe the half metre
long lizards who live beneath the broken slabs outside our room and swim in the
lake each morning to catch their breakfast, we don’t know, but we decided we
needed to find somewhere else for our final two nights there.
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Leaving the lake behind and entering the jungle of the waterfall walk |
After walking into town and looking at some sad old homestays
and guesthouses that need even more refurbishment than the one we’re at we
found a nice place two doors away, the Tan Dirih, which was a small guesthouse,
reasonably smart and well kept, right on the lake shore with only 4 or 5 rooms.
We were still the only people there, but it felt so much more comfortable and
nice and we really enjoyed our 2 nights there. Western breakfast was included
and it was 100,000Rp cheaper – result!
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Lost in the jungle. Which way now? |
Most of the restaurants in town catered for locals and were open
little old wooden shacks with small grubby tables and chairs with unrecognisable
cooked food in containers and drinks with questionable ice, so we pretty much
discounted those.
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The waterfall! |
One stood out, the Beachfront, next to the Tan Dirih, with
coloured lights, nice tables and chairs at the lakeside and even an ‘island’
dining area, built on stilts in the lake and accessible via a wooden bridge. We
ate there twice, the first was just OK lake fish, but the second was a very
expensive and very disappointing venison steak that was tiny and overcooked and
had to be eaten on a spoon to avoid it shattering if poked with a fork! The
best place we found was Bagoes Café in town, still a bit old and grubby, but
friendly people and nice reasonably priced food (including freshly caught lake
fish, BBQ’d while we waited in a secret spice paste and washed down with ‘Bintang’
beer – yum!), even if we didn’t fancy their old but cheap lakeside rooms! The
local ‘flying foxes’ gliding through the evening sky, looking like
pterodactyls, were an added bonus.
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A 'self timer' photo, we were alone! |
Getting
information on things to do was hard as ‘Rama Café’, recommended in LP, seemed
to have closed, no-one else knew anything and there were no signposts. Went
hunting for a waterfall, but went too far along the lake road and ended up on a
nice circular walk through paddyfields and tiny hamlets, high up on the
hillside with great views, which was good, but not the one we wanted. In the
end the guy in Bagoes Café told us where the hot spring pool was (found it but
didn’t fancy it – grubby!) and where the waterfall was, which we did do on our
last day (after a day of ‘chilling’ reading and emailing at the Tan Dirih
guesthouse).
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Jackie's arm coming out in a nasty rash |
Had
a lakeside breakfast (toast and peanut butter – yum!) and set off assuming it
would be a leisurely, easy walk to a waterfall and back. Found the concrete track
off up the hill and ambled up through paddyfields, cinnamon, nutmeg and clove
groves and a few houses until we reached the edge of the jungle where it got
much steeper and rougher; the concrete track stopped and a vague track led into
the trees. ‘Let’s tuck our trouser legs into our socks to guard against leeches
and other things like lizards, scorpions and spiders that we knew inhabited
these areas’ Jackie said and off we went.
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And this was the harmless looking culprit, Dendrocnide Moroides |
Generally
following the stream we zig-zagged through jungle on steepening slopes through
head high undergrowth, mud, loose stony slopes, crossed the stream on several
occasions on loose exposed rocks, got lost when we scrambled up a slope away
from the stream, having to retrace our steps back to the stream again, hanging
onto roots to stop ourselves sliding down the slope into the stream below, but
we did eventually find our way to a nice waterfall pouring over a semi circular
vertical rock wall in amongst verdant jungle. We felt quite pleased with
ourselves, we retraced our steps without difficulty, but of course we don’t
know the jungle and what is and isn’t dangerous and one plant Jackie brushed
against had her arm turning red in a big rash. It brought back memories of our
visit to NE Australia where notices warned against touching a toxic plant, the Dendrocnide
moroides (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dendrocnide_moroideshttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dendrocnide_moroides).
Well, it turned out that’s what it was, giving an extremely painful stinging
sensation that can last days, weeks or months and in some cases can be fatal!
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Our saviours, Imam with two of his sons |
Her
arm is getting worse and we’re starting to get a bit concerned as we emerge out
of the jungle and back onto the concrete track and that’s when we bumped into
Imam and his two sons coming up hill on a motorbike. Imam lives in one of the
houses on the track with his extended family in several houses and was on his
way up to tend to his rice. His English was very good although he started
speaking to us in Indonesian until I showed him a photo of the waterfall on my
camera and he decided we were friendly people. Jackie showed him her arm and he
immediately recognised it as being from this toxic plant and set off into the
fields with his machete, looking for the same plant, digging up some of its
roots, pounding them with stones until wet and then rubbed it vigorously onto
her arm, making her wince. ‘Leave it to dry for an hour’ he said and, although
it was still painful, she said it was a lot better. Today it seems to be fine,
with only a light pain if directly touched, so a bit of a lucky escape!
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Imam preparing the root antidote |
The
rest of the day turned out to be really enjoyable and totally unexpected as we
spent it with Imam and his 16 year old son. After going back to his house
nearby, meeting his family, having coffee and learning all about cinnamon,
cloves and nutmeg he offered to take us up into the hills to find the largest
single flower in the world, the Rafflesia arnoldii (http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rafflesiahttp://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Rafflesia).
He occasionally takes people on trips up the 44 bends to the top and them down
through the jungle to see the group of 12 waterfalls (we only found the bottom
one!), a palm sugar production farm and the Rafflesia flower. He does little of
it now due to lack of tourists, earning his money from his crops, teaching
English and Biology in the local school. It was after lunch so we said ‘no’ to
the waterfalls and palm sugar farm, but ‘yes’ to the Rafflesia flower. He
charges 220,000Rp per person including lunch he said and since we felt we
already owed him for helping Jackie’s sting it seemed like a bargain, so off we
went, me on the back of his motorbike, Jackie on the back of his 16 year old
sons up the 44 bends to the top and to fabulous views, in a huge gale.
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Vigorous application to the affected area |
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Cinnamon Tree bark |
He
got lunch on the way and we set off down into the jungle on really steep muddy
slopes with his son carrying lunch and walking in bare feet! We went a long way
down, could only see steep jungle ahead and steep jungle behind on barely
defined paths he had used before, listening to jungle insect noises and the
occasional hornbill (he said). He used his machete to clear away nasty toxic
plants and thorny specimens and we picked and slid our way down past huge nasty
looking caterpillars and lizards, finding only dead and shrivelled Rafflesia on
the jungle floor. He’ll only charge us half price if he doesn’t find any he
said, but eventually his son shouted out, ran across up from us, Imam went up
and shouted with excitement ‘come quick’ he said ‘this one is only a day old
and only just about opened’, so we hurried as fast as we could through the
undergrowth to this fabulous looking flower. It wasn’t the largest specimen,
probably 400mm across, male rather than female so smaller, but it was perfectly
formed and brilliant to see, we were so pleased to have bumped into him and
done something so unexpected.
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And this is a nutmeg |
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Imams house |
Forgetting about tucking our trouser legs into our socks this time, Jackie stopped during scrabbling back up to find two leeches sucking away at her leg, one gorging away as the blood around it showed. They apparently inject a chemical in to prevent the blood clotting, so after they are pulled off the wound continues to leak blood, so she had blood stained trousers at the end and now has two vampire like marks in her leg. I took a quick look at my legs and found one attached, but it hadn't had time to settle in so it pulled off without problems.
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Preparing for the motobike ride up the hill |
We
were back down by 5:00pm, showered and washed everything we’d been wearing and
met him and his family again in the evening at his local school where we exchanged
email addresses. He wants to come to England to obtain a UK English diploma to
allow him to teach English in an Indonesian university, so maybe we can help
him achieve that. I’m sure he had tears in his eyes as he said how much he had
enjoyed meeting us and we certainly had a fantastic day. What a great way to
finish our Sumatra experience!
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Stopping off to buy lunch on the way |
This
morning we caught a shared taxi back to Bukittinggi and returned to the Hello
Guesthouse following Ling’s instructions and we’re now back in our fabulous
room with balcony (but very ‘loud call to prayer’ singing from the mosque
opposite) for one night. Tomorrow we get a shared taxi to Padang airport, a
flight to Kuala Lumpur in Malaysia and then a bus to Melaka on the Malaysian
coast facing Sumatra for our last three nights in SE Asia, before returning to
the UK on 1st April.
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The view from the top, Maninjau town, the lake and encircling cliffs |
We
just had time to go up to the Fort De Kock at the top of the hill to see ‘peg-leg
Ging’, the very friendly cat with the badly healed broken leg who lives up
there. He seemed very pleased to see us and enjoyed the fuss we gave him in
front of the six local teenagers who looked a bit bemused at us.
It’s
been great here, Sumatra’s a great destination, full of friendly people and
lots to see and do. We’ve barely scratched the surface of Sumatra, let alone
Indonesia so we’ll definitely be back at some point in the future. Malaysia and
then home, here we come!
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A very large stag beetle on the ridge crest just before we started down through the jungle |
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Jackie with our guides Imam and his 16 year old son just setting off |
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Pausing for a breather on the way down |
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Still going down... |
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Local wildlife. Is it dangerous? No idea! |
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More wildlife, no idea if it's dangerous or not, this is as close as we got! |
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A Rafflesia Arnoldii bud. It will take about a week for this to open to a flower |
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And finally, after lots of disappointments, a newly opened Rafflesia Arnoldii, the biggest single flower in the world! |
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Enjoying our final sunset from the deck of our Guesthouse on Lake Maninjau |