Indonesia days 3 - 6 Krakatau, Peucang Island to Jakarta

.   Setting off on our speedboat trip to Krakatau. It was a speedboat and very noisy!

Having got back to our room in Mutiara Carita Cottages last night after  dinner we discovered a family with 2 noisy children were now next door, so knowing we'd probably be awoken by the call to prayer we didn't want to be kept awake so we went to move rooms, bit of a pain as when living out of small rucksacks you almost always have to unpack them to do anything. Did I sleep? Probably enough if it was the only bad night, but not enough to try and catch up at all. 

.   Walking through the grounds of the Matiara Carita cottages to the keyside to pick up our soeedboat

Off to breakfast, before 8.00 to find Hendi already waiting for us, and we weren't meeting till 9.00. At least he was impressed we only have small bags as he came to collect them. "Come through the restaurant, I'll be waiting with the boat." And so he was. It's a small, fibreglass, boat, with Captain and mate, and the three of us. 

.  We are now inside the submerged crater of Krakatau and this is one of the three islands above the surface that trace the outline of the crater and is our destination tonight for beach camping

An hour and a half of whizzing along, as fast as our 80 horse power will take us, through a squall which was preventing us seeing our destination, which we'd quite clearly seen yesterday from the beach, to finally arrive at the 3 islands comprising Krakatoa, two green islands and one barren and smoking. 

.  Anak Krakatau the central cone of the still active volcano (the photo I put in the last blog that I thought was this from the shore at Carita was, in fact, nearby Sensei Island) . Anak means 'son of' and this rose again above the waves in 1927. Since then various eruptions increased its size and height. In 2018 a new, large eruption created a new central cone within Anak Krakatau, called Cucu Krakatau (Grandson Krakatau). The eruption caused a tsunami that we were told caused 2000 deaths and devastated all vegetation on the four islands comprising Krakatau and on surrounding islands.

This last, son of Anak of Krakatoa, having erupted on the 22nd December 2018. This was where we first stopped to walk up to level 1 where we could just about see smoke, and feel the heat, coming from the summit. There was no sign of movement from the patrol boat moored across the strait by the big island so we continued up to level 2 from where we could see into the crater. Brian was very excited, standing on such a well known volcano, its eruption in the 1883 being heard as far away as South Australia and Ceylon, while the tsunamis were even felt in the English Channel.

.  Hendi, our guide, sent me this photo he took of Anak Krakatau at the start of the 2018 eruption. If you compare it to the photo above you can see how the cone collapsed to the present level sending debris into the air and sea

Having had our exercise for the day we moved on to the small island where we would be spending the night, I'd secretly harboured dreams of a tent like on Kenyan Safari, but no, this was a tent like you'd take to Glastonbury, with 2 narrow blow up mattresses and  fleecy sleeping bags! We weren't even quite alone, the couple who had been leaving the volcano as we had arrived had obviously had lunch on our beach, as part of their day trip. Day trip or overnight, who had the best idea? There was also a fisherman in a shelter who was part of a crew that came and went in a boat.

.  Arriving at our landing site on Anak Krakatau for our trek up to the summit

We ate our box lunch of nasi goreng (fried rice) and ayam (chicken) which was pretty much what I had for breakfast, while tents we erected for us and Hendi, the boat crew would sleep on the boat. Snorkelling next, on a tiny reef, with enough to keep us occupied for a session. We then chilled, watching the monitor lizards move around the beach, while the boat crew cooked dinner. The monitor lizards were perhaps up to 2m long, but seemed to ignore us, however Captain cooked on the boat as they can be a bit of a menace with meal prep. We had one of our beers and an amazing feast, a huge BBQ fish, some squid, vegetables, tofu, rice and spicy sambal. 

.  Jackie and Hendi at level 1 on Anak Krakatau. The whiter cone is Cucu Krakatau, formed since 2018 and behind it is old Krakatau, three generations of volcano in one photo. This is the furthest we were supposed to go for safety but, as he could see we are fit enough and the patrol boat is a long way off, he said let's go if we want to, but we must turn back if we see the patrol coming

After chatting with Hendi it was time for bed, still 25° , I'm really glad of the fleecy sleeping bag! We had 3 sides of the tent open to fly screen but there was absolutely no breeze, even when the rain started, still no drop in temperature. If I don't sleep soon I think my head might explode. I did doze I suppose, coming to at one point to find all the words of "Just you wait 'Enry 'Iggens" from My Fair Lady buzzing around in my head, he'd just better look out on May 20th is all I can say!

.  On the highest point of Anak Krakatau overlooking the smoking crater of Cucu Krakatau

Day 4

The rain started, with a vengeance at about 05.00, no point in going to look for sunrise then, or getting out of the tent, it's the dryest place around, except when the wind blows the rain off the awning through the fly screen. Coffee and breakfast were brought to us as we huddled under our outer tent layer, and jolly good it was too. Then came the task of walking around the headland, to dig a hole, to find that the body said NO, while camp was dismantled.

.  Our 2mile, 140m ascent round trip up Anak Krakatau 

It was meant to be a 3 hour trip to Peucang Island, our next overnight, but due to the amazingly calm seas he did it in just over 2, but that is still too much of engine noise and bouncing. We did see flying fish, dolphins and some birds, I'm going with frigate, tern and boobie, but we'll see. I'm certainly right on the first and last.

.  Walking back down past a lump of rock thrown into the air by the last eruption. In the distance is another of the islands tracing the rim of the 1883 eruption, Pulau Setting. It gives idea of the size of the 1883 eruption that sent 20cu km of rock into the air, altering the earth's climate for 3 years, causing worldwide tsunamis and creating the biggest sound known to man with an explosion estimated to be equivalent to 100 times the power of the hydrogen bomb dropped on Japan. Edit: I am reliably informed by Bill and Mark that it wasn't a hydrogen bomb. They tell me: the bomb dropped on Hiroshima was an atomic bomb. It was nicknamed 'Little Boy' and was a fission based uranium bomb, while hydrogen bombs (thermonuclear bombs) are a different, more powerful weapon that uses a fusion reaction

We arrived at our beach front huts, quite attractive, but, no power till 18.00 and then maybe only till 21.00, which doesn't bode well for the puny fan, so here's hoping it stays all night. Phones and power bank are charging just in case.

.  Arriving at our camping beach on old Krakatau. The couple on the beach left shortly after we arrived

Lunch was again provided by the boat crew, as they are now cooking dinner. They are working jolly hard, and very well. Snorkelling was cancelled after we saw a big salt water crocodile mooch off in the direction of the reef. Cross the strait to the mainland part of the Ujong Kulon national park to go to look for the incredibly rare Indonesian rhino, pigs might fly, particularly when we got there to find that where you use to be able to trek for 3 days, you can now only go into an open area about the size of a couple of football pitches. We saw some very exciting (not) Banteng or Javan bulls and some peacocks. 

.  Our home for the night

A circumnavigation of the island in the boat before back to the room. I feel so grungy that it's shower time, even though it's not 18.00, so no electric, so will probably be cold, I just wanted to wash off the seawater and sweat. Beer (thank goodness we'd bought 4) crossword, with the fan as electric hour has arrived, and then dinner, again cooked by the boat crew, another huge, whole fish, squid, chicken, vegetable, tofu, tempeh and rice, followed by dragon fruit. Hendi then took us on a little night walk, lots of deer, wild pigs, bats, flying foxes (I know, more bats), gecko, really making the gecko noise, but the highlight was one of the rangers evicting a python from the office. Probably about 1.5m long and very beautiful.

.  The monitor lizards wanted to check it out. They can apparently give you a nasty bite but they kept a distance from us

Day 5

After a reasonable night sleep, with the fan staying on until about 06.00 we got up for breakfast at 07.30. Having opened the cabin door though, to let the draught in Captain appeared with coffee and fried banana, as breakfast number 1, how lovely. Breakfast number 2 was actually provided by the hotel, which we didn't realise, and really didn't want, but omelette, fried potatoes and beans, and two pancakes and honey all on the same plate came anyway.

.  They went swimming to catch fish and generally paced about the beach looking for something to eat in an unhurried manner. Very relaxing. I took a nice video of them prowling about but I don't think I can put it on with this app

The activity for the morning was a trek, through the rainforest, across the island. I hate rain forest, hot, humid, full of mosquito and with limited chance of seeing much either because it's high up in the canopy or buried in the undergrowth. Unsurprisingly, we didn't see much, probably less than we saw around the cabin, deer, peacocks and hornbill. We had seen hornbill the previous day, but really only flying overhead which was almost better than seeing them in the canopy as the noise of their wings is quite amazing.

.  Dinner was quite an amazing experience, a huge fish, tempe (fried fermented soy beans - an Indonesian speciality - delicious), calamari in a spicy sauce, some fried vegetables and a very spicy sauce (optional! We had a tiny amount) Fortunately we'd brought some beer with us to wash it down

We were aware of a noise for the whole duration of the walk, that of waves crashing on the shore. This made for a great breeze and a good view at our turning point. Didn't bode well for our journey back however. About 1/3 of the way back, the rain forest earned its name and the heavens opened. Out with my trusty pink poncho from Ecuador, which was actually more substantial than the one use only mac that Hendi had that looked like it was made from cling film.

.  I forgot to mention the snorkel we went on before dinner. I took some nice underwater video with my GoPro equivalent but, without the laptop I can't process them an out them on so this is a screenshot photo

Back to the cabin about 11.30 and quick lunch, whether we wanted it or not so we could set off back. Captain wanted to get off as the wind and waves did not look good, and we weren't going to argue, as after the 3 hour boat ride we have a 3 hour car ride back to Jakarta. The sea state was very different to yesterday, though didn't start off too bad, about halfway back Hendi had stopped trying to wipe the seats dry, the Mate was absolutely drenched, I was wearing my faithful pink poncho and Brian was looking on Organic Maps for somewhere safe to stop. It really was a bit hairy. Captain sort of agreed (well he nodded, but that was probably just to shut him up) with the jetty Brian had found. Once we got round the headland and were approaching this point, we appeared to have passed the worst so Captain just kept going. 

.  The evening wore on, the beer was finished, we'd had a pleasant conversation into the darkness with Hendi so we went to our respective beds. Let's hope Krakatau doesn't erupt tonight! Apparently the monitor lizards will take to the water and swim away if they sense an eruption is about to occur and they were still here so we'll probably be ok!

Not the best journey, Brian did point out to me that we had no lifejackets Hendi didn't look very happy either and said it was definitely not normal, but we made it back in one piece. We really don't mind paying the tips for this trip, even though it sounds a lot 50,000 IDR per person per day for Captain for driving and crew for cooking and 100,000 for Hendi. 50,000 IDR is just over £2.00!

.  Breakfast next morning under cover as it was raining 

I just wanted to get changed, and get on (I was really quite wet) but Thommy had organised for us to meet with a local English class of 14 year olds and their teacher. Well he'd organised it with them, and with Hendi, but it was the first we knew about it. They were all lovely so we tried to answer their questions in understandable English, Brian tried his Indonesian out on them and umpteen photos were taken, he now seems to be on WhatsApp with a multitude of Indonesian teenage girls which is a bit weird. We did eventually get off, with the same driver who brought us and a trainee guide who is meant to be practicing on us. She's very sweet, but obviously finds our English rather than American accents difficult so is actually letting the driver answer when I ask questions, which somewhat defeats the point of me asking them. Hence the blog!

.  Leaving our home for the night for a 3 hour trip across the Java Sea to Peucang island 

We arrived at the Mercure Batavia feeling very underdressed and positively smelly, so room service pizza and beer while we turn the room into a Chinese laundry.

.  The sea was flat calm so some dolphins came to play

.  And some boobies made an appearance

.  Arriving at Peucang Island we saw a lot of these floating wooden constructions anchored in the strait between the island and mainland. They are fishing platforms and are towed out by the fishing boats for night fishing when the sea is calm

.  Arriving at our beach side accommodation on Peucang Island

.  Our bamboo hut for the night right on the beach. It has an outdoor toilet, washbasin and shower, large bed with mosquito net and a fan that operates when the diesel generator is fired up between 6pm and 6 am

.  Inside our room

.  One of the activities in our programme was snorkeling in the channel between our island and the mainland. However, after this saltwater crocodile was pointed out we declined the offer. We couldn't work out whether they were serious about snorkeling or not, but I told him there was no way I was getting in that water

.  The biggest disappointment for me - and the main reason I wanted to come was to visit the Ujung Kulon National Park, a jungle wilderness of 123,000 hectares that contains an abundance of wildlife including the last habitat of the Javan One horned rhino. Our Lonely Planet Guide raved about it citing many jungle tours that could be undertaken. Hendi, however said that everything was closed in 2024 to protect the wildlife and we could only go to a small grazing ground in a forest opening now. The internet suggests other trips are still possible but possibly only with certain guides which, presumably doesn't include Hendi.

.  We were restricted to the grazing ground only where we saw some Java. buffalo, some peacocks and a wild pig. Rhinos never come here and Hendi had only ever seen them by the river which, he said, we weren't allowed to visit now

.  Did see this beautiful dragonfly that Hendi didn't seem too impressed with

.  Night walking safari round the campsite which is open to the forest on Peucang island. Behind our beach side cabin are many old buildings in various states of decay that are still used by groups of weekend trippers from Jakarta and, apparently they are still very popular. Its way past it's prime though, some sections are dilapidated, and returning to the forest. It holds a special place for Hendi as he worked here 25 years ago and met his wife here. We toured the old buildings looking for animals, this is a wild pig

.  The highlight though was this python that was being ejected from someone's living quarters

.  It was a beautiful thing and slithered off to a nearby tree to find a new home obviously feeling a bit dejected he'd been thrown out of his home!

.  Next day as set off with Hendi and a guide on a cross island hike. The island is low lying and was completely destroyed in the 1883 tsunami, so everything is only 142 years old. However, things grow quickly in a tropical rainforest

 

   Macaques observing us from high in the 

. After following the sounds of the hornbills high in the trees we eventually found one. This is a female Oriental Hornbill

.  You wouldn't believe how difficult it was and how long it took to eventually got this photo of a Great hornbill. We heard their call, we saw movement in trees, we saw them flying away and heard the great beat of their wings as they flew, but this was rare

.  Approaching the tip of the island we came across this handsome stag who tried to be brave but eventually ran away

.  At the tip of the island on the edge of the Indian Ocean

.  A scraggy looking deer in the jungle but I thought he was quite amusing. 

.  It had been raining in the night and during our trek and, after lunch we had a three hour boat ride back to Carita. There had been some discussion between them about the best time to go. Ideally I think they'd have liked to set off earlier as, when we did, storm clouds were gathering around us. We started off in seas of maybe 2m with odd white horses, but then we were in the midst of a thunderstorm with lightning and thunderclaps around us with monsoon rains pouring down and little visibility. It seemed like waves of 3m or more were upon us and I was worried as was Hendi as you can see him here looking over the edge. I looked on my map for a safe pier to pull in to and suggested it to them, which they thought about. I was acutely aware we weren't wearing lifejackets and hadn't seen any onboard. Anyway, we got through the storm, it settled a bit, they carried on past my pier and we made it back ok

Arriving at the harbour back in Carita our car was waiting to take us back to Jakarta but so were this group of local students who had been brought here by their English teacher after being alerted to our presence by our guide. They wanted to improve their English so we had to answer questions like where are we from, what do we think of Indonesia etc. They were lovely people and we had a great half-hour with them. They wanted to know our Instagram account, which we have but don't really use. I said I'd put some photos on it for them and I now seem to be friends on WhatsApp with some of them too

.  We are now back in Jakarta for two nights, which we'll talk about in the next blog. Tomorrow we're off to South Kalimantan on Borneo on a 6:00am flight, being picked up at 3:00am so early to bed for us!