Angels in Zion, Angels in the Grand Canyon

Waiting for the bus in Zion. It was sunny, but not much above freezing

We got up bright and early to go to do Angels Landing, as the reason we’d not spent much time there with Mum was that it was meant to be hot, and a 4 hour walk, with lots of up, well that was going to be hot… Bright and early though – that was cold, very cold. It was still cold by the time we set off walking (after the 45 min drive, parking, getting the bus to the trailhead) about 09.00. 

Start of Angels Landing hike, still v. cold

Strange hike – the first half steeply up, with the zigzags called ‘Walters wiggles’ all paved in a concrete slope, easy to walk on, and no horrible knee jarring steps on the way down, but not really a ‘wild outdoors’ experience. About half way up the West Rim trail continued, or the scramble to Angels Landing started. At this point we started coming upon people sitting down or crawling, or just looking really nervous. It was exposed, but assuming you can walk in a straight line with a chain to hold onto it wasn’t a problem. Looking at the photos though does make it look very exposed which in some way I just wasn’t aware of. 

There's a rising right traverse in that wall in the centre, that's the way up, with lots of zig-zags to get to it

But actually when you get to it it's straightforward

Some of this I guess is because we are used to it, but some of it was because Brian was enjoying himself so much he was virtually running up it! We came upon a woman on her own ‘testing herself’ she didn’t expect to get to the top, but wanted to see how far she could get. “Have a mint, it’ll give you something else to concentrate on” I offered as we went passed.

Time for some sillyness!

And the bizarre Walters Wiggles to get up

Now it gets a bit more interesting

It was a great scramble with amazing views, virtually standing room only at the top (what time had these people started out?) So few more pictures and off we went down, squeezing past people and getting out the way of those coming up. We met our lady again, with her fella this time – he’d gone up as she wasn’t going to, hence why she’d been on her own when she’d decided to try it! It was going to take her a while to get down, mostly on her bottom! “Have another mint” It had obviously helped as it was out my hand and in her mouth faster than the eye could see. “It’ll give me something else to concentrate on” I heard her explaining. The last bit of the walk down, after Walters wiggles was all in the sun which by now was really quite warm, and it was still only 11.25 and we were down. So much for a 4 hour hike!

Yes, quite interesting! It'll be up there then...

I'm right behind you Jackie

It's only a 1500 ft drop either side

Don't you think you should be a little further from the edge?

Last little bit of ascent

Oh and the final walk along the crest of the ridge

Nice view down there, that's the river down there and the road with a bus just visible round the outside

Jackie lounging about on the summit with a little chipmunk darting past

Managed to get someone to take us both, just to prove I made it too!

Another view over the edge of the road and the river 1500 ft below. Shame we forgot our wing suits!

Don't look so casual about it, there's people crawling along in total fear nearby!

Well on the way back down

A deer wading through the river

The well earned ice cream!

Time for an ice-cream and back to the motel for a chilled afternoon with cat!

Jackie gets a cat-fix at Mount Carmel motel

Grand Canyon North Rim

Headed off to Williams, the last town to be bypassed on Route 66, and the ‘gateway’ to the South Rim of the Grand Canyon. We did make our journey longer as we decided to take a look at the North Rim of the Grand Canyon on the way, it’s 1000’ higher so has different weather and landscape than the more popular South Rim, it’s only 10 miles across the GC, as the Condor flies (and we did look out for one of those) but 200+ miles by road! 

Behind is one of the lookout points on the north rim

And that's the view

It is an amazing sight, a huge hole in the ground! All in all added about 4 hours to our day! Arrived at our cabin on a campsite slightly phased, wondering how far it was back to Williams to eat as the camp restaurant was shut, except for the burgers and hotdogs they were whipping up for a bunch of grey nomads, we were told we could join them, so as it was easy as could be we did. Woke up bright and early as we still seem to be on Utah time, and all the people whizzing by to catch sunrise over the GC went passed loudly! 

A 'selfie' on the drive to Williams. Yes, Jackie's driving and I'm not scared!

Not a problem though, meant we could get there early too. Strange place, most of the National Parks have a visitor centre, with a gift shop and that is mostly it, this had accommodation, restaurants, shops everything, and the bus to take us round as no private cars allowed till November. Decided we’d do a hike down into the canyon, seemed to be the recommended thing to do, so we set off down the Bright Angel Trail, but of course that’s the odd thing, you are going down, and have to decide how far down to go as for every step down, you have to come back up! OK mile and a half point – toilets, water, round trip 4 hours. 

An Elk on the road by the South Rim of the GC

We did it in 1 ½ hours, strange timings they give for these hikes! On the whole though going down hadn’t really worked for either of us – the best view was at the top! So did the bus trip and decided really we’d seen enough of the GC, so back to Safeway in Williams, I wanted to visit the pharmacy. However on speaking to the pharmacist he thought my self-diagnosis was wrong and that a quick dose of antibiotics was called for, it’s ok though – the doctors 2 mins over there will sort you out! 

On our way down. Odd to start a hike downhill

And they did, an hour, a staff of 4 and $130 later, back to the pharmacist. Have to say though as these things go, it was such a different experience than in the UK, congenial, chatty, easy, just the bill to deal with!

Still going down

The trail we are on ends on the plateau, just left of centre. That's 3000ft down and 12 miles round trip, estimated at 9-12 hours. We didn't go that far!

We turned round at the 1.5mile, 1200ft descent mark and came back up. The canyon is 5000ft deep and exposes rocks 2 billion years old at the bottom. That works out at 1 million years for every 2.5ft of descent on average. That must mean we were looking at rocks about 48 million years old at our lowest point

Some fine views from the top

Despite the fact that we wanted it to be, this was not a condor with a 9ft wingspan, it was a turkey vulture apparently

That's the best view of a very muddy Colorado river we had

Jackie gets the low down from one of the Park Rangers about something or other

I know it's only a baby bunny, but isn't he cute!

We’d allocated 2 days to the GC, so today we got up very gently (despite being woken by the sunrise seekers) and had a lovely morning pottering round Williams, rounded off by stopping for milkshake and pie for lunch, well that was the plan, but I couldn’t find any high stools to sit on, and as it turns out, milkshake was off – no ice-cream, but a coffee frappe was very similar, along with a huge slice of cream pie each (well we’ve seen these things but never have the space) the sugar rush and the calories were immense! Feeling uncomfortably full we set off on the relatively short drive to Flagstaff, detouring to drive along random bits of Route 66, because it was there!

The city of Williams and part of the old Chicago to LA Route 66

Carefully restored old buildings on Route 66. This Italian restaurant that we ate at used to be a petrol station and they still have the old restored petrol pumps outside

With a few old cars

A bit of the very original Route 66 - it took some finding!

Jackie at the crag

The Flagstaff guide we’d picked up at the tourist info in Williams mentioned a climbing wall, so we popped in hoping to pick someone’s brain about local outdoor climbing. We met a lovely guy who drew some terrible maps, but gave us some really good info and printed stuff off the web, so we decided to try ‘The Pit’ properly known as Le Petit Verdon despite the easiest route being harder than anything we’ve climbed since we’ve been here, and it being Limestone which although a rock we’ve climbed on a lot on the UK and Spain we know it can get terribly polished, particularly if you are doing the easiest routes at the crag! Oh well, we’ll just have a look! Bumped into some youth in the car-park who showed us the way, and pointed us to the route the wall man had recommended. I did it, but made heavy weather of it, which made B decide to do it on the top rope, but it's so much easier on a top rope! (He did have to stop for at least one rest, so that made me feel better.) So he suggested I go back up on the rope and enjoy it! Just about to set off when some more youth (from California it turns out) arrived looking dubious, so I tied their rope to me and took it up so they could top rope it too. B had to show them how to tie on, so we left wondering whether we should as California surfer dude was being lowered down having only got half way!

The group we left at the crag. There is a rope up that Jackie placed

He said he climbed that grade! So 46 yr old English Lady 1 : 20 something surfer dude 0!

What was so lovely though was the man at the wall giving us loads of advice, the guys who showed us the way and offered to lend us some trad gear if we wanted (having sent all ours home with Mum), and then another guy climbing nearby who in a shouted conversation from his route to B belaying also offered to lend us gear. Don’t think you’d get that at home!

Got to our airbnb before the householders (but we knew where they’d hidden a key for us) to shower and let in the cat, at least we hoped it was the right cat, but she seemed to know her way round! It was and if we are lucky she might spend the night with us!

Brian Head, Utah – from hot to cold!

Walking the rim of Cedar Breaks

It’s my turn again and it’s ridiculous.  2 or 3 days ago we were setting the alarm so that we could get any walks done before the heat set in and it was unbearable, today we are watching it snow – yes snow!  We did go out for a rangers talk – which turned out to be about the trees in the area and was quite interesting but we hurried back wet and cold.  Thank goodness for jigsaws – well we are in a skiing resort so what else could we do (for those who don’t know I always took a jigsaw when I joined the skiing group).

Jackie contemplates the view - yes, there was a big drop in front of her and no fence!

A lighthouse in the middle of Cedar City - we don't know why!

We are in a resort called Brian Head – how appropriate is that? – and have a very nice flat for a week.  We’ve had some really nice walks in the surrounding canyons and several animal encounters; lots of chipmunks and some deer but nothing as exciting as bears, which we would all like to see.  Brian went out one night to try and photograph the sunset but there were no clouds so he only had partial success.  How quickly things change – if he went out tonight he wouldn’t find the sun.

The yellow leaves of the Aspen Tree. Apparently they are all one tree, roots grow out and another tree sprouts up!

On the summit of Brian Head

Pauline’s got writer’s block so I’m going to carry on! It’s Saturday and we arrived here on Monday with a plan to visit Bryce, Zion, Kolob and Red Canyons, plus Cedar Breaks National Monument and we’ve achieved three out of five, which is not bad considering we wanted more of a laid back week. In fact it seems they are all pretty similar, huge dramatic vistas with big cliff drop offs to steeply shelving red gravel sides and, where a harder stone was present, erosion around the obstacle to leave a hoodoo, which is a weird shaped stack of rock, some very high and large, apparently defying gravity. 

Jackie on Brian head looking for Marmots

When I look back at the photos they are all broadly similar and we do get a little blasé about some of them, which is a real shame as they are all fabulous in their own way. As usual with photos, they simply don’t bring out the vastness and dramatics, you simply have to visit yourself and be awed in person!

She's still looking...

The sunset picture

Cedar Breaks is a case in point, it’s just around the corner (5 miles?) from where we’re staying in Brian Head ski resort. It’s a bit higher than the resort at about 10,400ft and, because it shelves away so steeply, the panorama is vast and the horizon so distant. It makes the perfect sunset photo place, but with clear blue sky it hasn’t presented the most dramatic scene. Amusingly, in the Ranger talk today we were told that early visitors mistook the Juniper tree for a Cedar tree, giving the area its name. In fact there are no Cedar trees in this area at all, so really it should be called Juniper Breaks, but it’s too late! There’s a great walk round the rim of Cedar Breaks out to a ‘headland’ that juts right into the area with great views all around and we were all feeling the 30% reduction in oxygen level at this altitude when walking uphill, particularly if we tried to walk fast. 

She found one!

The rim walk felt strange when, looking one way we saw dramatic alien views down into a vast red valley, but the other way were green fields, trees and the yellow and red leaves of the Aspen trees, most odd! We took an evening drive to and a walk round the top of Brian Head at 11,307ft, which is above the top ski lift and the highest point for many miles around, giving absolutely magnificent panoramic views. Jackie had heard marmots sunbathe on the rocks, but even creeping around and peering over edges to sunny ledges we didn’t see any, that is until we were back in the car on the way down when she suddenly said ‘Stop!’, leapt out of the car with the camera and managed to photograph one flopped out on a rock, leaving me to manoeuvre the car to the edge of the dirt track to allow others to get by! 

More Aspen trees (or should I say another Aspen tree!)

A Pronghorn deer spotted somewhere!

Wednesday was our visit to Bryce Canyon, named after Ebenezer Bryce, an early cattle ranch owner of the surrounding land and canyon. He was unimpressed by the canyon and when asked about it apparently replied “It’s a hell of a place to lose a cow!” It’s all a bit commercialised with many facilities at the entrance eager to take your money and a shuttle bus provided to take you around, which they suggest you take to avoid congestion in the park. 

Bryce Canyon

A natural bridge (or is it an arch) in Bryce Canyon

We didn’t and we’re glad we didn’t as, when we reached Rainbow Point at the end a bus load of people were being bored by the monotone voice of the bus driver pointing out distant peaks. As a park we thought it was OK, but it did get better as we headed back, visiting ‘Inspiration Point’ last, which is a vast bowl filled with hoodoo’s and a fabulous place. Once again, photos don’t do it justice.

Inspiration Point. I know, it doesn't look that good, but go an see it yourself, you'll be inspired!

Thursday was our day of rest, despite the warm calm blue skies and the forecast for the weather to deteriorate (it didn’t seem possible!), so we took short drives and walks over to nearby Bear Flats (there were no bears but great views) and a two mile walk to Alpine Lake on the edge of Cedar Breaks, which was a pleasant wooded undulating walk with occasional grand views out to Cedar Breaks (seen it all before!) and ending at a pleasant lake in an apparently alpine setting with a couple a deer creeping by watching us.

The Alpine Lake

A Cone Squirrel in Red Canyon

Friday we went to Red Canyon, the very much ‘also ran’, near Bryce Canyon, but in our view one of our best days. It’s much smaller than Bryce, but that doesn’t take anything away from it and it was made better in that we walked in amongst the towering red cliffs and hoodoos which seemed a more vibrant red than we had previously seen. Maybe it was the morning sunshine and the definition brought out by the shadows, but we absolutely loved it and, as we were told, there were few other people. A second walk took us round the back along a dirt road, where there are various canyons to explore in a remote setting. 

Red Canyon

The various vehicles parked there were mainly for horse riding treks and we set off on the arches trail, passing riders returning and we went up into the hills to see quite a few small rock arches in improbable shapes, ending with high viewpoint and great views. It appears quite a few canyons interlink and there are mountain bike routes through them, ATV and horse riding routes, something for everyone. A mountain biker I spoke to who was just loading his bike back into his vehicle had had a fabulous ride through the canyons making me quite jealous!

Pauline and Jackie in Red Canyon.

Jackie tries a bit of climbing

And hide and seek!

We can't work out how the stone man on the left is still standing. When it goes, it'll really go!

Now here's a creepy thing. A sign described this pile of rocks as a camel, and we can see what they mean. Here we are walking past on it's left and it's looking at us. Now look at the next picture as we passed by on the other side.......

It's turned it's head and is still looking at us. Creepy or what!

Look at this bunny hiding under the rocks!

One of the arches in Red Canyon

We didn't want to walk under this roof

More improbable arches

The old buildings in Panguitch

We drove back through the town of Panguitch, as we have done a number of times now, but this time we stopped. It’s a really quaint old town in itself, but on the edge of town is a collection of old wooden buildings that someone has bought and taken there for show. There’s a saloon bar a blacksmiths, a fuel station and a ‘house of ill repute’! (Not just for show – they were disguising storage units – a very witty way of doing it. P) 

The GEM cinema and cafe

In town we went for an ice cream in the GEM shop, which is still an historic working cinema that occasionally still shows movies. The front is a café still furnished in 50’s styling, playing old fifties rock and roll records!

Just where they belong!

Just in case there was any doubt!

Today it’s Saturday and, as per the weather forecast a huge storm has appeared over us and, in fact all over Utah, bringing plenty of rain from Arizona and causing thunderstorms and rain after rain, quite exciting really! We’ve done almost nothing, except going to a ranger talk this morning at Cedar Breaks where we got soaked! Jigsaw’s done, tea drunk, cake eaten and blog written. Unfortunately, one of the earlier thunderstorms managed to take out our internet connection so, unless it gets reconnected, posting this entry may be a bit delayed!

The delicate manoeuvre to get Jackies section of the jigsaw into the correct place using fish slices! 

The wet and snowy walk to the Rangers lecture

We have one more day here before leaving for Las Vegas on Monday morning and we’re not yet sure what we’ll do. Looking at the TV news, the weather in Utah has been dramatic everywhere and Zion NP in particular is in a flash flood situation with some roads closed and very high rivers. Here this afternoon we’ve had snow and, although it settled a bit it’s gone now, so whether we’ll be able to get out if it snows tonight is anyone’s guess. We only have summer tyres, no snow chains and a rear wheel drive vehicle with wide fat tyres, not a good combination for snowy conditions! 

Kolob Canyon

If it’s not too bad a visit back to Red Canyon might be good to see the dry river beds in flood, it could be an exciting day, before driving to Las Vegas, the desert and high temperatures, just about 4 hour’s drive away. It seems incredible that such a small distance can have such a climate change!

Late addition on Sunday:

Walking in Kolob Canyon

Woke late today (it’s lovely sleeping where it’s cool and you can snuggle down) but hey, we’re on holiday! Set off towards Zion Canyon NP, yes another one, Utah is full of them. We’d decided to go to the Kolob Canyon area for two reasons, it is closer, and higher so should be cooler! Also having seen raging rivers in Zion Canyon on the TV last night as they bore the brunt of some of the weather we’d been having we thought staying high might be sensible. We arrived and did the scenic drive, aware how much mud and sand had obviously been cleared off the road before park opening, and the short hike which wasn’t as muddy as the ranger in the visitor centre said it would be and had lunch at a lovely picnic spot, though did have to dash for the car as the rain started!

Not a bad view. Apparently the Grand Canyon is in the distance

Longhorn sheep seen in Zion NP

Decided that although we couldn’t be bothered to go to Zion and mess about with the bus (no cars on the drive at this time of year) we would do the drive just into the park and out on the Zion – Mt Carmel Road. Well worth it, a different set of scenery again, it is quite astounding the variety that is here! We also saw a herd of long horn sheep – rare apparently!

A heard of buffalo (or bison!)

This is Checkerboard Mesa in Zion NP

Out to eat tonight, although I have enjoyed cooking, we expected to be late one night and eat out, so we only have the emergency tin of tuna to go with pasta left which I’d rather save till B and I are in our next basic cabin by the Grand Canyon where easy cooking will definitely be required! Plus, from our window we can see Mi Pueblo Mexican restaurant which has been open every day and we can’t see how they can possibly make a living at this time of year, so having really enjoyed our time here we thought we’d support the local economy!

Monday morning, snow on the ground

 

Had to clear the car of snow

 

Bling in one of the shops in St George

 

What a difference a drive makes, now it's too hot!