Canada - days 16 to 21 - Ucluelet to Whitehorse

Interesting boardwalk through the Pacific Rim NP Rainforest Trail. Unfortunately it had many more stairs than we thought, that wasn't good for a broken ankle!

Day 16 Tuesday

We went out to breakfast at a restaurant owned by friends of our Airbnb owners in Campbell River. Breakfasts are not small here. They really do last you all day.

Then finally went to the visitor centre to buy a day pass for the park. We had been debating an annual one, but I've obviously made that pointless. The ranger had recommended a couple of boardwalks among the huge, old trees. We only managed one, as yes, it was a boardwalk, but it had lots and lots of steps up and down. That had not been part of the plan.

Looking up the biggest tree. They are so straight and such a hard wood it's not surprising so many were cut down for shipbuilding and houses. These old trees are now protected

We then went to a big museum at the Kwisitis Visitor Centre, which was interesting enough. We did stop in the parking lot of the bog walk, but I decided perhaps it would be too much, and our pass was valid for half of tomorrow too, so we'd leave it till then.

The view from the museum at the Kwisitis centre

I thought that was going to be it, but someone had suggested the radar station, so we drove back through most of the park to drive up a big hill with an amazing view point at the top.

We saw this bald eagle being harassed by a crow. It wouldn't let up. The bald eagle flew into a nearby tree but the crow still kept on, trying to swoop in on the eagle hoping to dislodge it

Day 17 Wednesday 

Back to do the bog walk, which was not very different from the one in Ucluelet. The main attraction for us was the sign warning of bear in the area. We didn't see it! We were stopped by a couple who asked us if we'd seen the carnivorous plants, which up until that point I hadn't there. While Brian was showing them a picture of what they were looking for I did manage to find a sundew for them, so they were happy.

The view from the top of Radar Hill in the park, so named as there was a radar station here during WWII

The highlight of the day was to be the zodiac trip to see black bears. We'd been down the previous day, just to check that I could wear the attractive red suit, and that I could get into the zodiac. The answer was yes to both so that was fine.

The bog walk was interesting in that all the trees were very short due to the acid in the soil. The trees are still very old, but just short. The interest was added to in that there had been sightings of a black bear that was less afraid of humans, but we didn't see it. The sign also said wolves were in the area too. Apparently you don't make eye contact with a bear if you see one, but you do make deliberate eye contact with a wolf

We got chatting while we were waiting with a British couple, who used to live on the Island. She was a wealth of information about the boot, she's had to have one three times! I snuck in and got changed first so was second in line down the jetty. The girls who were first were determined to be, and were the cousins of our captain, Fred, so I was happy to let them. 

Also saw this American Robin on the bog walk

Fred actually suggested I sit at the back as there is less boat movement there, and that made sense, bearing in mind the wind that had been up for the last couple of days. This turned out to be a great decision, we had the whole of the seat which he was happy for me to sit on the back of so we had a great view. I just wasn't chief spotter! 

Kitted up and waiting to board our zodiac. The two girls were determined to get the front seat, we weren't bothered, it was more important for Jackie to be comfy

The cabin cruiser was also out, trying to catch up on the cancelled trips, but he wasn't as keen to show his guests as good a time as Fred was his cousin's. We seemed to get to all 5 bears first, and spend longer with them, at which point he turned for home and we went to one more spot. The mum and 6 month old cubs definitely made this worthwhile! I didn't think we could equal our Grizzly spotting, but we did!

Ready for the off

Back via the hot soup section of the supermarket where they had chicken vindaloo (which wasn't that hot) and rice for takeaway. Great end to the day.

We went to a group of islands called the broken group as there are something like a hundred small islands clustered together, most of them uninhabited. It's in Barkley Sound, just across from Ucluelet and is very beautiful

Day 18 Thursday 

We'd dithered about this day, but in the end we decided to take it easy. I can't work out if the bruising on my ankle is from the incident or if I've had the boot too tight.

This was the cruiser, the one we'd been on our our previous whale watching trip. They headed off in one direction, us in another as we were much more nimble and faster. I missed photos of the whales we saw, one diving and throwing it's tail in the air, I just wasn't quick enough

We went back to the lighthouse loop where I sat and looked for Orca as we'd seen them on Sunday, while Brian went and walked the loop. We started on another trail we hadn't been on, but it seemed very steep, so I decided no. We've seen lots of big trees.

We'd had a few false alarms for bears, Fred took us to some of his usual spots, but no bears were there. He told us afterwards he was starting to get a bit worried, but he knew all the spots and sped off somewhere else. Finally he found one and then many others afterwards. Here's a mum trotting on the rocks in the evening sun

Fish and chips for tea. I thought we'd have had loads of seafood on the island, but we've done most of our own meals. This had been my plan after the boat, but it had shut at 18.30 so we'd missed it. Funny place, the food is cooked in a truck, which you can either sit outside of, but they do have an indoors where you think they'd cook! Anyway, good fish and chips! Ice-cream on the way back and then only the second sighting of the cat, just in time to say goodbye to.

Here was number two on a different island. He or she is looking a bit mean, you wouldn't want to come across one in a forest. They can run at up to 45kmph, faster than humans, they can climb trees and they can swim. Never run from a bear and try to escape, you will lose! Make lots of noise when walking as they will try to avoid confrontation, but if confronted, stand your ground, talk calmly and, if it approaches, wave arms and look big, continuing to talk to it

Day 19 Friday 

A long day. I wanted to leave at 08.00, though we didn't make it away till 08.30, that was still ok. Including stops, just over 5 hours to the airport in Victoria. 

I was quite pleased with myself here as I spotted this bear on an island first, even before the expert spotters in the front. I was certain it was one as I'd seen movement and it was sometime before others saw it and someway in towards it. Very unusual for me

Drop the car off and drop the bags off. I'd booked airport assistance, not really for Victoria airport, but more in case we were late and had a short turnaround in Vancouver. The lovely lady did it for all the flights though, including the one to Calgary nearly 3 weeks away which I really hope won't be necessary. She did also assign us seats  for all the flights which was very good of her.

Bears have big claws. It's a bit blurred as the boat was bobbing about in the water

I did feel like a fraud though, pushed through the airport in a wheelchair. Boarded first, on a half full and little bit late plane, for a half hour flight. Perhaps it was a good thing after all. Wait for everyone else to get off and make my way to the cabin door and there's a wheelchair waiting. Up the ramp, and to the next gate! It probably wasn't necessary after all!

And then a mum with her two baby cubs. Fred thought they'd only been born this year

Again boarded first, a few more people on this flight but still by no means full. Only 2 hours, but soft drinks, a small meal, warm cookie and sweetie, all brought round separately. Not bad for a short flight!

Long wait for bags once we arrived in Whitehorse, but at least they were there. Short taxi to the hotel, which is a bit tired. Once I sent Brian off to get me a pillow for my leg, some soap and a second coffee cup though it's probably ok.

Getting him to go to bed was difficult though, it's nearly 23.00 and still light!

I was sad this photo wasn't sharper, but doesn't this little cub look cute!

Day 20 Saturday 

Quite a bit of walking, breakfast, the visitor centre who was lovely. She suggested we do the whole trip the other way round so we are driving towards the mountains rather than having them behind us! She also gave us lots of other information, that he's currently going through, and that if we get back to Whitehorse early there are another couple of places to go, in the opposite direction which certainly takes the pressure off trying to work out how long to stay in places.

Mum looking very intently into the water

Walking to the museum met a lady with a dog and had a really long chat with her. She suggested some stuff, and somewhere to stay on our third leg. People do just seem really friendly and helpful. Good museum before trying to find a thrift store. The trousers I can wear easily are not necessarily the warmest ones, so I wanted something I could possibly butcher, but we couldn't find one that she mentioned and one had closed down. Oh well, I'm sure I'll cope!

Quick stop in at the glass blowing place, again, a really nice chat with one of the blowers. People do seem really nice.

This is a map showing the broken islands in Barkley Sound. Ucluelet is left into the channel and the blue is the Pacific, next stop, Japan!

Day 21 Sunday 

Another huge breakfast before going back to the visitor centre to watch the bear safety video. Very interesting, you can get charged by an aggressive bear or a defensive bear and you react differently to each, assuming you can tell the difference. One you back away slowly, and if you are knocked to the floor you just play dead. The other.... You fight for your life! I think we have to assume we won't be doing any long hikes anyway!

Jackie being pushed in a wheelchair onto our flight by a very nice man

I then watched another couple of videos, one mostly on the SS Klondike, while Brian walked down to look at the SS Klondike. It's being repaired, so is shut for two years, I'd have made more of an effort if we could have gone round.

The view through our hotel window in Whitehorse at 11:00pm. It's dark here for about three hours only

Decided to buy a Canadian SIM card, it won't work where there is no coverage, but is more likely to grab a signal than what we already had, and at least I'll be able to ring campsites, sometimes, to book ahead. The first shop actually gave us the SIM card, but couldn't get us connected as due to a power outage yesterday, the tech shop had no tech. He sent us up the other end of town, which I walked much faster than I have been doing, so that's good. Glad we did it that way though, as the man in that shop couldn't make the SIM card we'd been given work, but sold us one which he could. It would have been very frustrating if we'd tried to do that on our own!

Walking through Whitehorse next to the Yukon river. During the goldrush days of the 1890's the only way to get around this mountaineous country was by river and they don't come bigger round here than the Yukon, which flows through here, north to Dawson City, right through Alaska and empties into the Bering Sea. Paddle steamers used to ply this river to ferry people and supplies up to Dawson City and, before a dam was built just upstream, the river here was dangerous rapids, with lots of white waves and whirlpools, hence the name of the town, Whitehorse. An enterprising individual built this railway so people could offload their cargos and people to avoid the rapids, reloading to continue the journey. It was only one set of many rapids on the way leading to many deaths. A road was only built here during WWII by the US to counter the threat of a Japanese invasion, the Alaska-Canada Highway, now known as the Alcan Highway. We're going on that tomorrow 

Next door was a clothes shop, so I now have a fairly hideous pair of joggers, but at least they will go over the boot, and I can get my thermals underneath, so I can be warm. Having said that daytime temperatures are meant to be going up, maybe to 18 ish, but overnight may still be zero!

So we feel we've achieved quite a lot today, plus we are probably going to stay at a local campsite tomorrow as I'm probably going to attempt to get an x-ray. Dr. Kim said in a fortnight, but it's either going to be a week or three weeks, so although I think it's doing ok, it might be worth the effort. Two independent people have warned us how long it might take though!

Lots of stuffed animals in the museum, all indigenous to these parts and most will kill you!

My little walk today to visit the SS Klondike II, one of the only remaining paddle steamers that used to ply the Whitehorse-Dawson City stretch of the Yukon river. You can't get inside at the moment, it's being renovated, expected to take until 2029

Most of her sister ships were wrecked on the journey downriver during stormy weather

But somehow this old girl survived

Its an impressive paddle

The Yukon today, still with quite a flow, but tamed by the dam just up round the bend

A couple of other sights in the town, these are log cabins stacked on top of each other, known as the log skyscraper

The first church built in the city, made of logs. It opened in 1900