Norway cruise days 1 to 5

On board the Fred Olsen Bolearis in Portsmouth 

Sunday 4th

Jackanoia was setting in, with the snow forecast for the UK, so we collected Denise and Paul at 09.30 for the drive to Portsmouth. The car was absolutely full with 4 people, finery and cold weather gear. We are expecting -4.

Full moon rising as we steamed out of Portsmouth harbour

The drive was ok, no snow. Despite stopping for coffee and cake we still arrived at the cruise terminal at 13.15 for a 15.00 check in. I was hopeful they would let us in and indeed they did. We dropped off our cases, and boarded the ship, found our cabins, and were in time for lunch which was an unexpected bonus. We milled around a bit before realising we had better get our drinks in to wave farewell to Portsmouth.

First evening and we're first into the theatre for the evening show

Back to our cabins for a mad unpacking hour before heading to the dining room for our 20.00 second dinner sitting and a lovely meal. We had decided to try all 5 courses which was a bit much, starter, soup, salad, main and dessert. Our waiter Roberto is lovely, very impressive when he told us he had just arrived from the Philippines that day! I wouldn't have fancied doing a shift, with the 7 hours time difference and 16+ hour flight after we got back from Indonesia, but he didn't seem phased.

Day 2 and one of Fred Olson's other ships, the Balmoral steamed past us going the other way. They only have three ships in their fleet so it's a big thing for them and they made a bit of a song and dance about it

Monday 5th

The first of two sea days which have blurred together it has to be said. Denise and I did a fit dance class in the gym and we all went to lectures. A mixture of this and the motion of the ocean sadly made Denise feel a bit unnecessary. She didn't have much lunch so was a little peckish at afternoon tea time, so that started a very bad trend!

Day 2 was also our first formal night, so here we are dressed in our finery

Our excuse was we needed a bit of stomach lining as it was the Captain's cocktail night, our first formal evening. A couple of drinks and some canapes as we were introduced to the senior officers, before going to dinner.

It was cocktails night with the captain and crew and here's our captain on stage

The show today was a violinist who we saw on the Antarctic cruise. We weren't excited to go to her first show but after the rave reviews we had gone to her second. Denise and Paul felt a bit like we had, but we're very pleased that we went, she really is very good.

And all his crew

Tuesday 6th

My turn to feel a bit under the weather, which I can't really explain, had breakfast and went to a fit ball class, all fine, but then had to go and lie down. Didn't stop the eating and drinking though. We are all being really quiet restrained, drinks are included at mealtimes but we've not had more than three or four in a day.

Breakfast in the buffet restaurant, high up on deck 8

More lectures, and we've dragged D&P to the odd quiz. B&I have been ballroom dancing a couple of times and they seem a nice bunch. We didn't fancy the entertainment tonight, a Carole King tribute, so we had a relatively early night before our first shore day

Day 3 in Alesund and we'd booked a shore excursion, so here were waiting in the theatre for our turn to be called. We head out, get on a coach with a guide and off we go

Wednesday 7th Alesund

A bus trip in the morning to visit some local islands. I think we had expected a boat, but the islands are connected by bridges and undersea tunnels, so it was actually very interesting.

It gets light here quite late but, we were lucky, it was a bright clear day, something that's quite rare apparently 

What to wear had been the big decision, -3 so colder than last year's Antarctica in the summer, long Johns, fleece lined trousers and waterproof trousers, thermal top, two layers and ski jacket. Got on the bus and it was roasting so I somehow had to take off my over trousers and jacket while seated, and with the seatbelt on!

First stop was an old church on Giske island where almost every headstone in the churchyard had the surname Giske. It seems that's what they do.

First stop was the oldest church, which we couldn't get into but walked around it learning lots, including that the guide had half the clothes on that we did. We did learn though that we were very lucky with the weather as it can be very wet and misty here, so clear with sunshine was very unusual.

The moon is still up, there's a bit of snow on the ground and it is very cold!

Second stop was a lighthouse for coffee and cake and a walk around. Here it was cooler but we were still fine. Back on the bus and a drive around the town which was interesting and made it a good all round trip. 

Second stop was at an old lighthouse. It had scaffolding round it, but it was a nice stop

Back onto the ship for lunch before heading out into the town to walk around. We found the pretty colourful art Nouveau street though most of the town claims to be pretty. The town burnt down in 1904 so had to be rebuilt in it's entirety but sadly some of these lovely buildings were replaced by '70's monstrosities which was a shame. 

Denise told me to take this. Hardy sheep in the foreground, another of the islands in the distance (Vikingen island, with an airport) and a plane out there on the left. By the time I'd got my gloves off and found my phone the plane had nearly landed. All these island are connected by road tunnels under the sea

Brian and Paul were keen to climb the 400 steps of the hill so Denise and I went to have a look. Lots of people were wearing their ice grips/spikes, but we had ours too so were quite happy to put them on and give it a go. It wasn't that bad, and the views were great, and the hot chocolate reward was well earned.

Back again to the ship, agreeing to meet for the quiz, followed by a gin and jazz event in the piano bar next door which I'd spotted in the programme. This was a bit of a highlight so far, 4 members of the entertainment crew presenting a 20's event with a little story and some great singing. This bar probably only held about 50 people so we had great seats and it felt very intimate and personal. Brilliant.

Classic view of Alesund

We didn't make it to the show after dinner, it was a pantomime which I'm sure would have been good but Brian wanted to dance. We found a band in the Observation lounge that were good and did a little rock and roll, though no one else joined in. They finished their set with Honky Tonk Woman which found Brian dancing with a complete stranger. They both seemed to enjoy themselves!

Tbats the hill we need to climb up. You can just see the zig-zag path

Ballroom was on as we passed so Brian did a few with me and a few with Denise which satisfied his need to dance thankfully.

We donned our spikes to walk up the icy slope

Thursday 8th

Another sea day with some scenic cruising, but it has been really got very cold. Layers upon layers just to go out for a moment. Deck 3, the promenade deck, has been closed all day and Paul nearly lost his woolly hat on deck 9.

Halfway up and that's the first time we've seen our ship properly down there in the Fjord

Having dashed out last night, from dinner wearing formal wear, because of the aurora announcement we have decided to dress more casually tonight and eat in the buffet. As it gets closer to eating we are all feeling it is unlikely that we will be out spotting though, particularly as it seems to be raining.

The view from the top is very good

We cross into the Arctic circle about 18.00 which prompted a ceremony similar to the one for crossing the Equator. Nobody was thrown into the pool, but the Captain and all crew for whom it was the first time have been reprimanded by King Neptune, had to kiss the fish (a fresh salmon) and have ice poured down the back of their necks. Followed by any passengers who felt so inclined. 

On our way down and it's very icy so we were very glad of our spikes on our shoes that made it very easy

Brian had to go as he's done the Equator, and the Antarctic circle. Paul went too and D&I just drank very alcoholic mulled wine. It was very entertaining and everyone takes it in good part.

Our Gin and Jazz affair evening show was aot of fun so, of course we had to drink gin fizz

I think we really are pinning our Aurora hopes on tomorrow, in Narvik where we overnight so there won't be the wind chill added for D&P while Brian and I are doing a four hour tour driving across the country side looking for them

Cruising through the fjords today. It was about -8 C outside with a strong wind that made it feels like -20C so it was bitterly cold. We braved it with full winter gear on and I got this photo of the mountain with a hole through it

We crossed the Arctic circle today and a ceremony had to be performed where the captain and senior crew members (followed by as many guests as want to) to kneel before Neptune (there in the white beard), be found guilty of venturing into icy waters without permission from Neptune, have icy water poured down their back and to kiss the fish

Here's the fish, a salmon on a plate

The captain is first. Obviously he's found guilty and here's the ice about to be put down his back

Followed by kissing the fish. This was repeated for officers and cadets and then lots of passengers

I took my turn. After all, I had done the ceremony for crossing the equator and the Antarctic circle, so this completed the hat trick

A little further on we passed the seven sisters mountains almost in the dark. I managed to get this photo through the window (I decided not to go outside it was so cold). You can just about see seven summits

This is the window in our cabin, you can see the window is now all iced up

And one final picture, albeit a crap one. This is a photo of the Arctic circle globe, a sculpture on Vikingen island marking the point at which we passed into the circle at a latitude of 66° 32' North

This is apparently what it looks like in daylight, according to Google Maps. That's it so far, Narvik tomorrow and we have a couple of trips booked and hope to see the Northern Lights. We're going to be woken at about 6:00am in the morning if the sky's clear as there's a good possibility of a showing, so our winter clothes are at the ready should we get the call. Better go to sleep now, it's after 11:00pm