Indonesia days 20 &21 - the Banda Islands part 2

Fish for BBQ dinner for the VIP's. We had one as part of a huge dinner buffet for us and the new guests.

Day 20

We were packed to head off to Rhun island, which I found very upsetting. It's lovely here, the staff are lovely, the rooms are lovely, it's great to have some good people to do our activities with, and Rhun is going to be 2 nights in a homestay. I think there is 24 hour electric on the island but I can't even swear to that.

We went off on a snorkelling trip instead of going to Rhun, but on the way came across this boat and diverted to offer assistance as it looked as though it was sinking. We could see them throwing overboard some of the rocks they had at high speed and, as we arrived, some of the waves were coming over the side. They didn't want our help and after more throwing of rocks went to shore where the sea was calmer

Up for breakfast, not expecting to see Julie and Martin, their plan was to climb Gunung Api, the volcano, even though Julie was the one who wanted to do this and it was Martin's birthday! The rain, unsurprisingly, had put them off, so there they were. 

Snorkelling site in front of the lava that ran into the sea in the 1988 erruption

Never have you seen anyone looking as happy to have rain on their birthday as Martin was. No sooner had we ordered breakfast, a phone was thrust into my hand, it's Abba. We knew Abba had gone to Ambon, and was due back on the fast boat, with lots of dignitaries. J&M even had to move out of the Joanna Lumley room, where she stayed while filming a recent series about the spice trade. We'll have to try and find that when we get back. He said that there was too much wind and it wasn't safe to go to Rhun, they actually weren't sure that the ferry was going to make it back either, so the poor chef was standing about not knowing whether to start cooking the buffet banquet for 50 dignitaries or not. Perhaps you can go snorkeling this afternoon, he said.

The start of our walk up Guning Api. It was steep, loose gravel and, energy sapping heat and humidity. The wildlife was interesting - this is a Golden Orb spider with nasty red tallons! It can give a nasty bite, but not usually fatal to humans. We didn't want to get close enough to find out!

I was obviously delighted, Brian less so, in fact by the time we'd had a little potter, a restful morning and lunch he'd quite worked himself up to this being a conspiracy against him staying on Rhun, because to do this we had the Estate boat, and what was he going to do with J&M? Denny had come by and made some fairly disparaging comments about it, which were probably fair, "there is nothing to see, to recognise the history" it's just a dirty scruffy island. 

He knew where the wind was coming from, there is a hideous storm between Australia and Indonesia, all his weather apps showed him that. What Ipin the snorkeling guide told me was that the government had actually issued a weather warning, which is very unusual. Should we be going snorkeling?

This was a screenshot I took on Thursday of the nasty cyclone just north of Australia. It's whipping up winds and sea where we are, just south of Ambon. It caused the cancellation of our Rhun trip and, even as I write on Saturday, still waves of 1.3m, which is a lot for the small boat we'd cross in, let alone the quality of the snorkelling. It's not set to blow itself out until next Wednesday. Our departure there has been put back to 10:00am as people on Rhun report the waves are still too big. Will it happen? We'll know in 50 minutes (after I've posted this)

Actually yes and no, though the first site, on the lava flow from the last eruption in 1988. "It's sheltered there, by the volcano" Ipin said. It wasn't, the sea was very rough so we moved on. Perhaps it's not all a conspiracy after all. We moved back to a more sheltered area and had a lovely snorkel, some amazing colours, even better, when the sun came out, though unsurprisingly the water wasn't that clear. He forgot to take in the camera, though I'm not sure of the quality if he'd remembered. I was first out, actually feeling a little chilly. Didn't last long.

We moved to Banana Island for a second go, which again, was a little murky, and not the prettiest place. I had a great time, but then I was the only one to see the black tipped reef shark, and the turtle and the Moray eel swimming past looking absolutely beautiful, if not a little scary. Never seen one of them before.

A bit out of focus but this is a reasonable sized bat looking at us from the trees on the way up Guning Api

We weren't in a rush to get back, the hotel had been laid up for the 50 dignitaries, and we'd seen the fast boat coming in, so we expected it to be bedlam. By the time we dripped in, it was all calm again, though we couldn't stop and talk to Abba, we really did have to get into the shower, to warm up.

A pineapple growing wild on the slopes of the volcano

The place is much fuller of normal guests that also must have come in on the boat, so there was a buffet dinner for all of us, after we'd had a few beers to celebrate Martin's birthday.

A lizard crawls over a bees nest

Day 21

The weather had still been deemed unsuitable to get to Rhun, so we have no overnight there, hurrah! 

I suppose it means we can do the volcano, was the silver lining for Brian. Martin and I both said we didn't want to do it, but we're quite happy for Brian and Julie to go. Both of whom said yeah yeah, Martin and Jackie will come 

At the highest point on the edge of the crater

Against our better judgement, we did, for me, only because Brian was really a bit miffed about Rhun. I should have stuck to my guns. We started far too late, no breakfast till 07.00, so the suggested 06.00 was poo poohed, but 08.30, by the time we got off the little boat was already stupidly hot. 2 hours up and 2 hours down is booked time, but it was horrible, hot, humid, slippery, mosquitos, everything I can't stand. But for some reason it was me who fared the best. By a long way. (You absolutely wouldn't believe it Si and Di) I'm not saying I enjoyed it, but I was setting pace behind the guide, who isn't really a guide, but one of the waiters, and really didn't feel too bad.

Looking down into the crater and the sea beyond. Ai and Rhun islands are in the distance. We hope we'll get there tomorrow!

Very disheartening to get to a false summit though. Martin rebelled at this point, so it was just the three of us to have the view into the crater, and then walk past the steaming vents. Most amazing thing to me was the speed and noise of the swifts as they flew past our ears.

Panorama from the summit of Guning Api. Banda Besar curves off to the right, dotted by Pisang Island on its left. Down below is Banda Neira, the airstrip in the centre and town on the right. Jackie's in the picture on her way down and Martin and our guide/waiter are on the false summit below

Going down wasn't going to be any better, yes, less exertion, but it's hotter still, and very slippery, and there's nothing like running your sweaty, gritty hands down a piece of blue nylon string to make you feel safe!

Jackie with Banda Neira town behind

We were all out of water, we were all feeling dizzy, we all had aching knees, Brian has just commented he doesn't know why it has taken so much out of him, and Martin slipped over. He really did get a very nasty 1.5" cut along the base of his thumb. Nobody had any water to wash it with, though we did at least have some baby wipes, provided for us all that time ago by Thommy. Couldn't stop it bleeding, so it was head down and go. 

Martin almost gave us a smile!

We had to stop, close to the bottom, to ring for the boat to collect us. The 'guide' didn't have a phone, the boatman had given his number to Martin, incorrectly as it turned out, so try ringing Abba. He didn't answer, three times. Martin remembered he had Denny's number, so rang him, to send a boat, any boat. Julie did get a call from Abba who apologised, and said a boat was on its way. She gave the phone to the guide, who had obviously been listening as no sooner had we arrived back, I'd just got out of the shower, and the chicken fried rice I'd been dreaming about, arrived. I'd been hungry before we even submitted, and may have mentioned it! I did have to share it with Nanna the cat though, every time you glance away and look back at her she appears to have grown. She is so pregnant. 

Martin clearly enjoying the descent! 

Yesterday she wasn't bothered about the chicken out of my soup, today she had my chicken, Brian's chicken and half of my fried egg. I had to stop feeding her in the end, I was afraid she'd be sick. But still her little paw would keep appearing by my elbow. Even for me there are too many cats and kittens on this island, there are so many that look unwell, they really need a sterilisation program or something.

Jackie getting on with it and leading the way, faring the best out of the 4 of us

I've seen Martin, 3 cans of sprite, 1 coke and half a litre of water before cleaning up his cut, and he's a whole new man. A couple of hours to chill before meeting up with them for some beers!

Perhaps that means we have to find the supermarket where beers are 45,000 not 75,000 like they are in the hotel. It's probably our turn.

Safely on the boat back to Banda Neira. Julie with our guide/waiter

Went out to find the supermarket, Martin had already been, so on top of the sprite and water we've drunk, we've now had an isotonic drink, and a coconut to drink. It's probably safe to start on the beer! Bad timing though we had to run to J&M's through an absolute downpour.

Indonesia days 16 to 19 The Banda (Spice) Islands

The Natsepa Hotel on Ambon Island after our hour and a half flight east from Makassar 

Day 16

Again, dawned very early, pick up 04.30, half an hour to the airport, flight at 06.15. We are leaving it later and later, the joys of online check-in and no baggage to drop. It was our first Lion Air flight, part of the same group as Batik but seems to have the worst reputation. This plane was old, and smelled of wee, but it got us there.

The view from our hotel balcony

There was Ambon, one of the Maluku islands. Just a driver, with little English, but lots of enthusiasm, got us to the hotel by 10.00, which was 09.00 in our heads, we've lost another hour, we are now 9 hours ahead of the UK. When are we going to get them back? 

The headland is still Ambon Island, joined with the main part we're on by a narrow strip of land

They actually made an effort at the Natsepa hotel, to get us into the room early, though it was Sunday and they were full, we were in by 11.00, hurrah.

Walking out to our single engine Cessna Grand Caravan aircraft that will take us to Banda Neira island. It takes 9 or 10 people and they weigh everyone including luggage to calculate how much fuel they need

This place is definitely a resort, white faces around the swimming pool. We didn't go, all the sunbeds with any shade were taken and our cossies wouldn't have dried. We do come back here though. Our next flight is 10kg only, so normal people would be leaving luggage to come back to. Not us!

We're in front row seats so have a great view of the captain on the left and copilot on the right

Blog, chill, lunch, dinner, beer, not necessarily in that order and early bed. Not as early as I would have liked, the 'sunset vibes' duo were performing, though I think they finished before 21.00

Jackies relaxed (I think!)

Day 17

Yup, another early one. Pick up at 05.00, doesn't sound quite so bad except it still feels like 04.00. Didn't want to leave this one too late as we haven't checked in. This was the flight the agent had to book, on the small plane, so we have a ticket, but nothing else.

Off we go and, after 40 minutes of crossing open ocean Banda Neira came into view

The same driver picked us up, and came in with us, took pictures of our tickets and took our passports. We didn't go anywhere, as there was nowhere to go. We did have to wait about 30 minutes for anyone to show up at the desk though.

Approaching the runway at Banda Neira. Looks quite small from up here!

We were front of the queue, in fact we were the queue. We had to stand on a set of bathroom scales, with our luggage, including the packed breakfast. That's a first. Brian's boarding pass said 11.00, mine 23.30 hmmm. They started again and we got two more, seat 1a and 1c boarding 06.30.

Here's a short video of our landing

We were expecting a small plane, but this was very small. Pilot, co-pilot and 7 passengers on a Cessna 208 Grand Caravan. Having just looked it up on Wikipedia, I'm quite glad we are taking the 5 hour fast ferry home. Look up the notable incidents if you dare! We however are fine, and now on Banda Neira at the Cilu Bintang estate. It's beautiful. The owner is lovely, and it's got cats and everything. We are being joined for a couple of our excursion days by a Julie and Martin, originally from NZ, but who have lived in Indonesia 25 years, who were also on the flight. They want to go to Rhun too, but can't come with us as we are staying there 2 nights. Why? When we could stay here. Brian will have to explain, and owe me more!!!!

Safely down, we're happy to say

Afternoon was a town tour with Deni which was a total of 3.2km, so it's not big. First stop was a Dutch church (Hollandische Kerk te Banda) a church built over the graves of 30 Dutch soldiers who died in the Banda conquest with tombstones on the floor. We moved on to the house of Captain Christopher Cole, of the British Royal Navy who commanded two large troops and successfully took the Ambon and surrounding islands in August 1810 until the Anglo-Dutch treaty of 1814, in order for the British to control the very profitable nutmeg and mace trades. The board outside states that the treaty to exchange Run (Rhun) island with Manhattan island was signed in the building, but Deni says that was incorrect.

Cilu Bintang Estate, our hotel, is a beautiful old Dutch colonial building sensitively restored by the owner, Abba, who's a really nice guy and arranged everything. The once a week flight from Ambon and all trips and excursions. Its him that's arranged our trip to Run on Wednesday and 2 night stay there

Further on were two cannons lying in the gutter, something that Deni says he remembers many scattered around the town when he was a child and, further on an archaeological museum that we walked round that covers a lot of the history of the spice trade.

Every bit of this place is fabulous and they even have cats which is perfect for Jackie. Our room is the one at the end there past the open doors. We have a table chairs and rocking chair outside. Great food and beer is available too

Walking down towards the coast we walked through the old Fort Nassau which only has the defensive walls left and a shallow ditch round that used to be a moat. The big green area inside is used by kids to kick a football about and our hotel, the Cilu Bintang Estate, a beautifully restored old colonial house is just the other side of the wall. The fort was built by the Portuguese, the first European power here and it was used as an area to store the valuable spices before shipment. A doorway in the wall leads to a jetty out to sea. The Dutch took it over but soon after built a fort higher on the hill overlooking it and built a connecting underground tunnel to connect the two. The tunnel was destroyed during the eruption of Guning Api in 1989.

From the front, a great view of Guning Api volcano

Further along facing the sea is Istana Mini (Mini Palace), the old Dutch governors building. It's also a place where the last homesick French governor hung himself, etching his suicide note in one of the windows in French, using his diamond ring, which can still be seen. It's a grand old building with huge rooms and marble floors with extensive grounds that are quite overgrown and the whole site is very sad and unused. It would make an amazing hotel if someone had the vision, but they'd better be quick as it's decaying rapidly, as are many of the buildings in the town. It's a shame, but given a few years there won't be much left to see unless someone finds a lot of money.

Our walk around the town. This was Captain Christopher Coles house, him who took the spice islands for Britain in 1810 (and, incidentally took specimens of the nutmeg tree, planting them in Zanzibar, Grenada and Sri Lanka to increase production and security causing the nutmeg price to plummet)

Our last call was up a short hill to Fort Belgica, the main Dutch fort overlooking Nassau below. It's double fortified with internal rooms that apparently held 400 soldiers. Its position high on the hill overlooks the town, the harbour and sea and the volcano, a great place to end the tour. Time for a beer!

Fort Nassau and what remains of the moat that surrounded it

Day 18

After a beer, a lovely meal and the best night sleep I've had since I've been here we got up for a gentle breakfast at 07.30. Meeting time for our island hopping boat trip was 09.00, how civilised. Ipan p, our guide walked the four of us through town to the harbour to meet the boat. Felt relatively big after the last couple we've been on, perhaps as well as the sea is looking a bit rough.

Jackie finds a tiny kitten! It was on its own, but further down was a mum cat with two kittens so, thinking that was mum, she brought this kitten to it, but it wasn't mum and she didn't like it. She had to take it back and hope it found it's correct mum

After about 45 minutes we approached Hatta Island for our first snorkel. Brian and I put more clothes on than we took off, both of us in long sleeves and long trousers, and a cap for Brian, though it's not as sunny as it was in the Maldives when we first did this. I've no fish book, and the video Brian took is better than nothing, but doesn't really give a good idea. It was lovely. A small reef with a steep drop off to who knows where, so reef fish and schools of deeper water fish including some lump(or bump) head parrot fish who can grow up to 1.2m in length. I don't think any of these were quite that big, but they were probably a metre or so. Highlight for me, and probably all of us, was half a dozen or so turtles lazily swimming about, what a joy.

The mini palace, a beautiful colonial building

Hatta Island was our lunch stop. The boat couldn't beach quite where we wanted to be so we had a short walk, but that's fine, we don't mind dripping along in our wet clothes. We all decided this was better than taking them off and having to put them back on clammy! We sat looking at the sea and talking until lunch arrived, soup, tuna, vegetables and rice. Who knows where it came from, along with a jug of water that smelled decidedly smoky, most odd.

Many of the old buildings need major repair work or they won't be here in a few years. That column isn't long for this world

Back to the boat and back to Naira Island and a soft coral reef. I don't think I've ever seen anything quite like that, but again, I don't know how to describe it. The snorkeling was amazing, and curiously although November is the start of the wet season in most of Indonesia, it's part of the best time to come to the Banda Islands.

A walk up a short hill to the newer Fort Belgica, a more complete structure and occupying a prominent position over the town

We got back, to a different mooring and seemed to exit, through someone's house. Still dripping. We squelched a very short route back to the hotel and went straight into the shower, fully clothed. It's a pleasant temperature as we sit outside our room writing (Brian is doing the history bit of yesterday's town tour, where the highlight for me was kittens, everywhere, in case he doesn't mention them). The clothes are on the roof drying, possibly, it's quite windy, we know the airer has blown over at least once, but I'm not sure everything had been on it when that happened! Fingers crossed we don't lose anything!

Lovely views from the fort

Day 19

A spice islands trip today, with Denny, our guide from the town tour here, and Julie and Martin. Down to the boat and across to Banda Besar, joined by an old university friend of Denny's, but that's fine. Apparently we need to tour the island by moped, first we've heard of that, but there were 5 bikes and 4 drivers, and no helmets. I went with Denny, who was very careful with me, as this was all a bit scary! Martin would rather have driven himself and has an Indonesian licence, but no, he had to pillion like the rest of us.

All over the islands. No wonder they built the fort up here

It was ok on the flat, but then got very hilly. I'm sure I got a good core workout going up and down, that was really quite scary. It was pleasant, in a way when I got used to it, but it was still hot. Better than walking though I guess.

Inside it's a pentagon courtyard with rooms round the outside. Some were used for soldiers quarters, some as prisons and.....

We stopped at old forts, Batu Berdarah, Perigi Pusaka and Hollandia Fort. A nutmeg plantation where we had a go at harvesting nutmeg and had some lovely cinnamon tea. The others bought nutmeg, cinnamon and vanilla which along with cloves, almonds and mace are readily available. Mace is the outer skin of the nutmeg, both inside of the fruit, and almond trees are grown to provide shelter and protect the nutmeg trees, some of which are 350 years old. We continued round the island stopping for another great lunch before getting back on the boat and returning to the hotel.

...some for metering out punishment. The two blocks at the front are where prisoners had their heads chopped off, the others are stools for spectators 

It's the nutmeg that these islands are famous for, until the mid 19th century nutmeg was only found in the Banda Islands. The location of the islands was kept a secret by the Arabs who traded in Venice. The location was found by the Portuguese in 1512, so they filled their ships with as much nutmeg, mace and cloves as was possible.

Walking to the dock for our day of snorkeling at Hatta Island. The ship in the dock delivers daily supplies for the islands from Ambon and is being unloaded

The Dutch arrived in the early 1600's and signed an exclusivity deal with the islanders. The British didn't take long to get involved, and there was a skirmish involving Rhun island, where we go tomorrow. The Dutch were really quite barbaric, to try to maintain their exclusivity massacring 40 of the wealthy local Bandanese Chiefs and putting their heads on bamboo poles.

Our boat (which will also take us to Run)

The Dutch had the sole production and export of nutmeg for 200 years. The British however invaded in 1810 and managed to remove and transplant many nutmeg trees to Sri Lanka, amongst other places so destroying the value of the Banda Islands to the Dutch. 

Fort Belgica and the town as we motored past 

And that's my potted history, there will be more, including Rhun,.but I'll probably let him write that!

Arriving at Hatta Island

The coral around these islands is extraordinary, in such great condition, probably because of their remoteness and lack of tourists

There were many fish we didn't recognise including these yellow ones. They are yellow long nose butterfly fish

A turtle swims by

Jackie points out a lotbster. You can just see it's long white antenna

Lunch on the beach on Hatta with Martin and Julie, our NZ companions who have lived in Bali for many years

Eating our dinner last night with Martin and Julie this little chap walked along the wall by us. He looked a friendly chap, not like this photo shows. It's a Cuscus, a solitary, nocturnal animal

A Kingfisher sitting on a wire while we waited for our motorbikes on Banda Besar Island

Here we go then, our motorbike ride of the island

First stop at Batu Berdarah and old Dutch lookout fort 

Walking the ramparts of Fort Benteng Concordia

It had a cannon lying about, in fact there were several in this fort and in other odd places around the island

And then a trip round a nutmeg plantation, and here's a nutmeg ready to be harvested. To think that wars have been fought over this, tens of thousands of people have died as a result and, at one time it was more valuable than gold

Nutmegs, cloves and vanilla in a bowl with Banda Neira island beyond. You can just see Fort Belgica above the town

Guning Api volcano from the ramparts of Fort Hollandia

A panorama showing the volcano and, to the right Banda Neira. All the islands, including where we are Banda Besar and part of a giant volcano, the central cone of which, Gunning Api, is still active

The giant Almond trees. These specimens are more than 300 years old

Denny showing us how cinnamon is harvested. Just the bark is used and, in the spice islands the whole tree is cut down to harvest. In other places we've seen some bark removed from an live tree and then more later. But they say only the first cut produces the best cinnamon

Lunch is served! Fabulous it was too

On the way back to Banda Neira we had a view of Run island. It's the one on the left. The nearer island on the right is Ai island, also held by the British for a while