Norway Cruise Days 6 to 14

We had to start this post with a photo of the Northern Lights. This was us taken on a long exposure photo that Veronica took. Although it looks only semi dark it was quite dark. I was taking photos on just my phone, with special long exposure settings and, for that I needed a tripod to keep it still enough. There's my cheap tripod with mobile mounted on top, that did the job admirably and as good as many peoples expensive cameras

Friday 9th Narvik 

We've actually got two tours booked here, so what to wear? It's crisp and clear (we are so lucky), but still dark, sunrise isn't till 11.15 though there is a lot of twilight at either end of the day. We had breakfast and went outside to feel the temperature where we met D&P doing the same thing. What does a temperature of -14 feel like? Bearing in mind we were going to be on a bus and then a train we didn't want too much on. Still not wearing my light down jacket under my big one, or the padded over trousers I bought for Nepal many years ago and have never worn. I'll save them for the second trip.

Outside at Narvik to test the clothing in -14C, where we met Denise and Paul doing the same

The train ride was lovely, very scenic, we cleverly sat on the fjord side of the train which has far better views, though they do want you to change seats for the return journey so everyone has a go. Three short stops where we could get off, breath the air and take photos. As we pulled into the final one, it had obviously got colder, the trees were covered in rime looking beautiful. Very exciting to see a reindeer grazing through the snow, no antlers so I assumed female. Having just looked it up though, at this time of year it's females who have antlers while males have lost them after the autumn rut. Does this mean that all of Santa's reindeer are female then and Rudolph a eunuch? (And why do we say a eunuch and not an eunuch?) Then there were some antlers moving as a second one trotted away. A third stood there for ages while Brian tried to get his phone out, but it was off, just before he managed it. Lovely to see though. We did swap to the other side of the carriage which was still pretty as it darkened. Sunset was at 12.59, but again, lots of twilight.

One of the stops on the Arctic train and Denise and Jackie poke their heads round the side of Paul for a photo

Having been first onto the train, we were also first off. This was good as we only just made it back to the ship before lunch service finished, just before 15.00. 

Eating is all a bit confused today as we are due out again at 19.45 and one wouldn't want to go hungry! D&P considered walking back into Narvik for the afternoon, they weren't doing an evening trip, but decided it was cold and dark so we'd all walk in in the morning.

Looking down Ofotfjord towards Narvik on one of our train stops. This was the site of a major naval battle in WWII between Germany and the UK. Germany had seized the port in April 1940 and were using the railway line we were on to transport iron ore from mines in Sweden to the ice free port of Narvik for onward shipment, It was also a useful base from which to operate the War of the Atlantic against British ships trying to resupply the UK with convoys of ships from the USA. Britain sent 5 destroyers to engage the 10 ships Germany had in the port on 10th April 1940. The result was a British victory but with a loss of 2 destroyers with another heavily damaged that made it back to the UK where it was subsequently repaired and put back into service. Germany lost 2 destroyers along with another 7 ships and had 4 destroyers damaged and suffered 163 casualties. Amazing to think a fierce battle raged in these peaceful, icy waters all those years ago

Another meal and more clothes, and we were boarding our bus to go and chase the Northern lights. Veronica was a great guide, and took us into Sweden while educating and talking all the way. Her first stopping place had a couple of buses in so we gave that one a miss only for someone to spot a streak in the sky on the other side of the bus to us. Fortunately we were close to another parking place, though this did have some ground light the Aurora were still very impressive. A bright white streak all across the sky. Brian took a few pictures and messaged D&P who had just finished dinner so dashed out onto the deck of the ship. They got some good pictures, though said it wasn't really visible with the naked eye. They were however very grateful as they'd heard no announcements.

The snow was quite deep and in the -15C temperature, was very dry and powdery. We didn't get wet walking in it and it just fell away like dust on removing a foot

We took lots of pictures which are all green even though what we were seeing was white, before just standing and looking. This counts, mission accomplished, we've seen the Aurora Borealis with our naked eyes. We became aware that time was up and it was only us, and Veronica, still out of the bus, so off we went. She decided to start heading back at this point, it was almost 22.00, not to return to base but just to give us longer when we next stopped. I could see them out of the window as we drove, just before we pulled into a parking area close to a lake. She led us to the lake through deep 'magic' snow, it was so cold and crisp it didn't even need brushing off, where the view was stunning. We probably watched and photographed for 45 minutes, until again, it was just the three of us left. I suspect those on the bus were slightly bored and disgruntled, well there was no sign of the promised tea and biscuits, but we were extremely happy. I hadn't even put on my little down jacket or over trousers, so they are STILL unworn after probably 20 years!

Dressed in our cold weather gear we felt quite ok in the sub zero temperatures

We were last back to the ship and went straight up to the late night buffet, another first, which was just winding down though they did find a little more food. We'd had a message from Denise saying they'd push back breakfast as she'd had a little more to drink than usual, only to get back to the cabin to find a note pushed under the door. Due to incoming adverse weather rather than leaving Narvik at just after midday we would be leaving at just after midnight in order to get to Stavanger on time. Oh well, it didn't look like an exciting city anyway.

Denise managed to get a photo of a reindeer (not a good photo as I had to zoom right in and the quality suffered)

Saturday 10th

Amazingly we woke up and looked out of the window to see a faint glow on the horizon, it was 08.50. I haven't slept that late in years. How lovely. 

We weren't far behind D&P to breakfast and have had a very relaxing day. The crew had come up with a morning program, though the quickstep lesson D&P were going to do before lunch was cancelled, due to the motion of the ocean.

Cinnamon buns on the way back. Its a local speciality but I can't remember the name now. I've just looked it up and its called a Kanelsnurrer

We decided to go to the main restaurant for lunch as D&P hadn't done this before, sadly lots of people seemed to have the same idea so we ended up sitting as far away from the window as was possible which didn't do Denise any good, she had to retire to the cabin.

Brian and I had a loyalty cocktail party at 17.00 as we are silver members. A long way to go to gold, diamond or diamond elite, but the first time we've not been bronze and not invited. It seemed to be quite poorly attended, my third glass of fizz was put down infront of me whether I wanted it or not! We did manage a little bit of dancing so it can't have been too bad.

View from the window on the way back. We decided the distant rock in the centre looked like the head of a troll

We were very impressed that we got 10% of the price of the trip refunded, because there was no coffee and biscuits! I said people were probably a bit irritated!

And when you zoom in it really does

Sunday 11th

This was a scheduled sea day, about which there isn't much to say. Everything was cancelled. There were a number of crashes from the kitchen during dinner service, though it didn't seem to slow down the arrival of our dinner which is always good!

Just after 21.00 we entered a fjord which was going to take us quite a long way south. The seas were much less which was a relief and we could pick up speed towards Stavanger, our final stop. This was true until about 04.00 when we had to come out of the fjord back into the open ocean. Noticeable even while in bed.

On our evening bus chasing the northern lights - that's pretty cold! We drove for an hour and a half across Norway into Sweden in search of dark skies for the best views of the Northern Lights

Monday 12th Stavanger 

Or not!

We'd just made it into breakfast, expecting to dock in about half an hour, when unusually, the Captain came over the tannoy, apologetically explaining that although it felt relatively calm he was unable to bring the ship along side as he said the wind was Force 9 gale, so we were going to have to miss out the port stop. In any case, we probably wouldn't have gone ashore in a wind that strong.

Someone spotted an aurora from the bus so we pulled in to a parking area by lake Tornetrask in Sweden that had some light pollution, but it was so vivid it didn't matter. This is pretty much how it looked to us with the naked eye, very clear. However, when I mounted the phone on a tripod and took and 8 second exposure (on ISO 3200), see what I got... 

We had no tour booked, but were all looking forward to getting some exercise on dry land, though we were expecting wind and sleet with a temperature of about -6°C with wind chill so it wasn't going to be pleasant.

We are therefore heading back towards Portsmouth giving us a total of 4 sea days which I don't mind, but is a bit much for the others. We've staked our claim in the Observatory, my favourite place, which is high and at the front but where you can see the horizon which is good, though for the last hour or so the horizon has most definitely not been level, we've been tilted way over to starboard. It is a bit unusual to just see sea on the right and just see sky on the left!

Just amazing, vivid colours. They come out so much better on a photo as the camera is much more sensitive to the colours than our eyes and the long exposure lets more light in

Brian has attempted the gym, sitting on an exercise bike, till they closed it, while I have been to a cookery demonstration which was fine, though the big pan of hot oil for deep frying the chilli beef was a little unsettling.

Waves crashing over the Observatory on deck 9 were a little unusual, as was warm water in the toilet bowl. Nobody has been able to explain that one to me. We had lunch and waited for 15.00 when we were expecting it to calm from the force 12 and seas of 6 to 8 meters, and indeed it did. Good, I can wear heels for the second formal night!

This is actually looking the other way, the aurora streaked right across the sky. It would fade and then reappear even brighter than before. It was, truly amazing. We've all seen photos like these before, but to see it in person is quite remarkable and we're so glad we made the trip and it was a spectacular showing

Tuesday 13th

Looking out it's hard to remember how rough it was yesterday, it's amazingly calm, though visibility isn't brilliant.

We can finally get out onto the promenade deck and do some walking, though one section was closed for some repairs so you had to turn round and walk back, not good to be meeting people when trying to speed walk! You could tell the power of the wind looking at the paint that had been blasted off. There seemed to be a rupture in a water pipe on the promenade deck while an awning on the newly revamped outdoor eating area had been torn to shreds. All goes to show that these winds and seas were a little more than usual.

We spent over half an hour at the first location taking so many photos and then realised that all the others had got back on the bus leaving only us with our guide. We went to a separate stop near the border with Norway, pulled off the road next to the frozen lake of Vassijaure, plodded through knee deep snow to the lake edge and spent the next 45 minutes or so photographing the most amazing aurora spectacle. Again, most of our fellow passengers went back to the bus after 15 minutes or so leaving only us with our guide. We were mesmerised!

So a normal sea day, with normal activities, except we have to pack this afternoon to leave our cases outside by 02.00 so we can pick them up nice and early, probably before 09.00 tomorrow. It's very sad.

A final cocktail evening where we were given the opportunity to meet a small group of crew from various positions. Not the chefs or restaurant staff though, they were busy with first sitting. We did get chance to thank them though as they all paraded through up and down stairs. It is a noticeable thing on Fred Olsen, how much the staff are appreciated and how happy they seem to be which makes us all happy, and probably makes them happy again. It really does make for a special experience.

I took so many photos its difficult to know how many to put on here or pick the best ones. What I did notice was that someone had a Samsung Galaxy phone that took better photos than me. It brought out the red colour much more clearly, but I captured red slightly in this photo. This was an 8 second exposure, ISO setting 3200 but, what I should have done (I think) is increased the aperture and reduced the exposure to prevent the blurring from the moving aurora. Our guide was using a 2 second exposure and higher aperture. The first photo was one of hers and, you can see, its a sharper photo, but I'm still happy with mine

Monday 14th

And it's all over. We were docked by 07.00 and despite being the last to be called we were in the car with all our luggage before 09.30. The motorway was fine and we dropped D&P off just after 12.30. Home, shop, unpack and relax, except obviously I've got to cook dinner and Brian has to wash up. And make coffee in the morning!

At one point the aurora faded and we thought that was it, until it came back even stronger. At this point I pointed straight up, increased the exposure to 30 seconds and got this great photo of The Plough constellation behind a faint aurora. At 30 seconds you can actually see the movement of the earth as the stars are slight streaks not pinpoints of light

Staying at 30 second exposure I got this lovely one across the edge of the lake with a green and red aurora. It was quite dark and the lake difficult to see with the naked eye, but this long exposure makes it look like dusk

Another of Veronicas (our guide) photos and they are better than mine

Another of Veronica's photos at the first stop with an aurora as it appeared to our naked eyes

We got back to the ship around midnight to be told we were last on and, straight after, they took the walkway in and we were off. We were supposed to be staying in port until midday on Monday, but our captain had decided to leave early to try to avoid a forecast storm. I looked on my 'Windy' app that can give sea forecasts and could see what he meant. If you click on the image you'll see forecast sea state was for 9.4m waves by Monday at 11:00am!

A couple of photos Paul took as we sailed out of Narvik, a beautiful sunrise (around 11:00am)

This is a stunning shot he got walking round on deck 3 after sunrise. It's just so atmospheric

A couple of photos onboard as we sailed south in roughening seas towards Stavanger

We were watching a performance in one of the bars

After our failure to dock in Stavanger due to a force 9 gale, we headed back out into the North Atlantic into the teeth of the storm to sail south towards home. This photo was taken in Jackie's favourite room, the Observatory on deck 8, about 44m above the surface of the sea. This photo may not clearly show it but we were in a force 12 hurricane, with wind speeds in excess of 65 knots (about 75mph) onto our port side, with seas of 6-8m. The ship is leaning quite noticeably to the right due to the wind force on our port side. Looking to the left (behind me), only sky is visible, can you see to the right of the photo, only sea is visible, such was our list. On several occasions waves broke over the whole vessel, drenching this window in water, so those breaking waves hitting the bow produced a spray over 120 feet high! Walking around was 'interesting'. Were we worried? Yes, or at least I was. We did wonder what the ship was designed to withstand and whether we were reaching its limits. Certainly the captain sounded fairly relaxed on the tanoy, but he would wouldn't he!

The sea, even from 44m above it, looked pretty angry and I did wonder that if we ever had to abandon ship in these conditions our survival expectancy must be zero

However, life on board carried on and, by evening we'd sailed through it into much calmer waters. Here's Jackie in one of her posh frocks

And on our second to last night a formal evening, so we posed for a photo

Early evening on our last night (in the calm seas of the North Sea sailing past Hull) we gathered for our last early evening quiz with drinks before dinner

Again before dinner, but after the early evening quiz, it was our Captains Farewell party, where he introduced us to all the people in charge of driving the ship (driving probably isn't the right word, but whatever!), who was currently driving then? He didn't answer that

However there were free drinks (lots of them) and canapes, so we weren't too bothered as to who was driving!

This was from our dining table in the main restaurant. Captain had introduced us to all the main crew, but not the restaurant staff as they were serving to first sitting (we were second sitting). So here they all are parading and waving from the stairs

And these were our table staff, Roberto from The Philippines on the right and Ragmanee from Thailand on the left (and the reflection of the waiter taking the photo in the mirror!). So that's our cruise, we achieved our main objective, which was to see the Northern Lights and we took in some interesting history of the battle of the Atlantic with a fabulous speaker and sights in Narvik. We saw some interesting buildings in Alesund and climbed to the top of a splendid viewpoint and had a great train journey through the highlands of Norway to the Swedish border. An unscheduled experience was the force 12 hurricane and 6-8m seas in the North Atlantic, something we won't forget and was better than most funfair rides. An added bonus was spending time with my sister Denise and Paul - a great trip and special memories

Norway cruise days 1 to 5

On board the Fred Olsen Bolearis in Portsmouth 

Sunday 4th

Jackanoia was setting in, with the snow forecast for the UK, so we collected Denise and Paul at 09.30 for the drive to Portsmouth. The car was absolutely full with 4 people, finery and cold weather gear. We are expecting -4.

Full moon rising as we steamed out of Portsmouth harbour

The drive was ok, no snow. Despite stopping for coffee and cake we still arrived at the cruise terminal at 13.15 for a 15.00 check in. I was hopeful they would let us in and indeed they did. We dropped off our cases, and boarded the ship, found our cabins, and were in time for lunch which was an unexpected bonus. We milled around a bit before realising we had better get our drinks in to wave farewell to Portsmouth.

First evening and we're first into the theatre for the evening show

Back to our cabins for a mad unpacking hour before heading to the dining room for our 20.00 second dinner sitting and a lovely meal. We had decided to try all 5 courses which was a bit much, starter, soup, salad, main and dessert. Our waiter Roberto is lovely, very impressive when he told us he had just arrived from the Philippines that day! I wouldn't have fancied doing a shift, with the 7 hours time difference and 16+ hour flight after we got back from Indonesia, but he didn't seem phased.

Day 2 and one of Fred Olson's other ships, the Balmoral steamed past us going the other way. They only have three ships in their fleet so it's a big thing for them and they made a bit of a song and dance about it

Monday 5th

The first of two sea days which have blurred together it has to be said. Denise and I did a fit dance class in the gym and we all went to lectures. A mixture of this and the motion of the ocean sadly made Denise feel a bit unnecessary. She didn't have much lunch so was a little peckish at afternoon tea time, so that started a very bad trend!

Day 2 was also our first formal night, so here we are dressed in our finery

Our excuse was we needed a bit of stomach lining as it was the Captain's cocktail night, our first formal evening. A couple of drinks and some canapes as we were introduced to the senior officers, before going to dinner.

It was cocktails night with the captain and crew and here's our captain on stage

The show today was a violinist who we saw on the Antarctic cruise. We weren't excited to go to her first show but after the rave reviews we had gone to her second. Denise and Paul felt a bit like we had, but we're very pleased that we went, she really is very good.

And all his crew

Tuesday 6th

My turn to feel a bit under the weather, which I can't really explain, had breakfast and went to a fit ball class, all fine, but then had to go and lie down. Didn't stop the eating and drinking though. We are all being really quiet restrained, drinks are included at mealtimes but we've not had more than three or four in a day.

Breakfast in the buffet restaurant, high up on deck 8

More lectures, and we've dragged D&P to the odd quiz. B&I have been ballroom dancing a couple of times and they seem a nice bunch. We didn't fancy the entertainment tonight, a Carole King tribute, so we had a relatively early night before our first shore day

Day 3 in Alesund and we'd booked a shore excursion, so here were waiting in the theatre for our turn to be called. We head out, get on a coach with a guide and off we go

Wednesday 7th Alesund

A bus trip in the morning to visit some local islands. I think we had expected a boat, but the islands are connected by bridges and undersea tunnels, so it was actually very interesting.

It gets light here quite late but, we were lucky, it was a bright clear day, something that's quite rare apparently 

What to wear had been the big decision, -3 so colder than last year's Antarctica in the summer, long Johns, fleece lined trousers and waterproof trousers, thermal top, two layers and ski jacket. Got on the bus and it was roasting so I somehow had to take off my over trousers and jacket while seated, and with the seatbelt on!

First stop was an old church on Giske island where almost every headstone in the churchyard had the surname Giske. It seems that's what they do.

First stop was the oldest church, which we couldn't get into but walked around it learning lots, including that the guide had half the clothes on that we did. We did learn though that we were very lucky with the weather as it can be very wet and misty here, so clear with sunshine was very unusual.

The moon is still up, there's a bit of snow on the ground and it is very cold!

Second stop was a lighthouse for coffee and cake and a walk around. Here it was cooler but we were still fine. Back on the bus and a drive around the town which was interesting and made it a good all round trip. 

Second stop was at an old lighthouse. It had scaffolding round it, but it was a nice stop

Back onto the ship for lunch before heading out into the town to walk around. We found the pretty colourful art Nouveau street though most of the town claims to be pretty. The town burnt down in 1904 so had to be rebuilt in it's entirety but sadly some of these lovely buildings were replaced by '70's monstrosities which was a shame. 

Denise told me to take this. Hardy sheep in the foreground, another of the islands in the distance (Vikingen island, with an airport) and a plane out there on the left. By the time I'd got my gloves off and found my phone the plane had nearly landed. All these island are connected by road tunnels under the sea

Brian and Paul were keen to climb the 400 steps of the hill so Denise and I went to have a look. Lots of people were wearing their ice grips/spikes, but we had ours too so were quite happy to put them on and give it a go. It wasn't that bad, and the views were great, and the hot chocolate reward was well earned.

Back again to the ship, agreeing to meet for the quiz, followed by a gin and jazz event in the piano bar next door which I'd spotted in the programme. This was a bit of a highlight so far, 4 members of the entertainment crew presenting a 20's event with a little story and some great singing. This bar probably only held about 50 people so we had great seats and it felt very intimate and personal. Brilliant.

Classic view of Alesund

We didn't make it to the show after dinner, it was a pantomime which I'm sure would have been good but Brian wanted to dance. We found a band in the Observation lounge that were good and did a little rock and roll, though no one else joined in. They finished their set with Honky Tonk Woman which found Brian dancing with a complete stranger. They both seemed to enjoy themselves!

Tbats the hill we need to climb up. You can just see the zig-zag path

Ballroom was on as we passed so Brian did a few with me and a few with Denise which satisfied his need to dance thankfully.

We donned our spikes to walk up the icy slope

Thursday 8th

Another sea day with some scenic cruising, but it has been really got very cold. Layers upon layers just to go out for a moment. Deck 3, the promenade deck, has been closed all day and Paul nearly lost his woolly hat on deck 9.

Halfway up and that's the first time we've seen our ship properly down there in the Fjord

Having dashed out last night, from dinner wearing formal wear, because of the aurora announcement we have decided to dress more casually tonight and eat in the buffet. As it gets closer to eating we are all feeling it is unlikely that we will be out spotting though, particularly as it seems to be raining.

The view from the top is very good

We cross into the Arctic circle about 18.00 which prompted a ceremony similar to the one for crossing the Equator. Nobody was thrown into the pool, but the Captain and all crew for whom it was the first time have been reprimanded by King Neptune, had to kiss the fish (a fresh salmon) and have ice poured down the back of their necks. Followed by any passengers who felt so inclined. 

On our way down and it's very icy so we were very glad of our spikes on our shoes that made it very easy

Brian had to go as he's done the Equator, and the Antarctic circle. Paul went too and D&I just drank very alcoholic mulled wine. It was very entertaining and everyone takes it in good part.

Our Gin and Jazz affair evening show was aot of fun so, of course we had to drink gin fizz

I think we really are pinning our Aurora hopes on tomorrow, in Narvik where we overnight so there won't be the wind chill added for D&P while Brian and I are doing a four hour tour driving across the country side looking for them

Cruising through the fjords today. It was about -8 C outside with a strong wind that made it feels like -20C so it was bitterly cold. We braved it with full winter gear on and I got this photo of the mountain with a hole through it

We crossed the Arctic circle today and a ceremony had to be performed where the captain and senior crew members (followed by as many guests as want to) to kneel before Neptune (there in the white beard), be found guilty of venturing into icy waters without permission from Neptune, have icy water poured down their back and to kiss the fish

Here's the fish, a salmon on a plate

The captain is first. Obviously he's found guilty and here's the ice about to be put down his back

Followed by kissing the fish. This was repeated for officers and cadets and then lots of passengers

I took my turn. After all, I had done the ceremony for crossing the equator and the Antarctic circle, so this completed the hat trick

A little further on we passed the seven sisters mountains almost in the dark. I managed to get this photo through the window (I decided not to go outside it was so cold). You can just about see seven summits

This is the window in our cabin, you can see the window is now all iced up

And one final picture, albeit a crap one. This is a photo of the Arctic circle globe, a sculpture on Vikingen island marking the point at which we passed into the circle at a latitude of 66° 32' North

This is apparently what it looks like in daylight, according to Google Maps. That's it so far, Narvik tomorrow and we have a couple of trips booked and hope to see the Northern Lights. We're going to be woken at about 6:00am in the morning if the sky's clear as there's a good possibility of a showing, so our winter clothes are at the ready should we get the call. Better go to sleep now, it's after 11:00pm