Friday, 4 January 2013

New Year, floods and ancient New Zealand history (if you believe it)!



We’re now at the end of our third day into the New Year, although we’d hardly know it as in New Zealand it appears to be a non-event! There was an event with fireworks in Hagley Park, Christchurch attended by about 5000 people that we thought about going to, but the lure of a bottle of wine was too much, so we stayed at home ate paella and watched TV. There were no New Year celebrations on any of the channels we could watch, so we watched ’the best of Graham Norton’, which had a commercial break around midnight and no mention of New Year. We gave up about 12:15 and went to bed! Very strange to think we were in 2013, but the UK wouldn’t be until 1:00pm the following day – and the last countries (Alaska or Hawaii perhaps?), not celebrating until it was about 11:00pm on New Years day for us.

New Years day was warm and sunny and we were chilling out in the garden reading, when Jackie pointed out Pete, our next door neighbour and of fairly advanced years, up on the roof of his workshop doing some repairs. 
Yummi plumb crumble! Thanks Pete!
Jackie suggested I go and see if he wanted a hand, so I spent a very pleasant hour with him on his roof. It felt a bit nostalgic to me, as he reminds me a bit of my dad. Pete’s a woodworker (as was my dad) and his workshop is stuffed full of machines that I can remember at my dad’s works, the smell of wood, the jumble of bits of wood, tools, screws, glue and the whole atmosphere took me right back to those days. We got the job done and, as a reward, he offered me some plums off his tree, so I came back with bags of them and cooked a plum crumble, which we ate with home-made custard for our tea!

Jackie chilling out on the patio, reading
We’ve had some very strange weather here since 30th December, a big low pressure has been bringing lots of rain to the western side of the Southern Alps, but warm, often sunny, but very windy weather to us in the Canterbury Plains. It was forecast on the day we went to the Rakaia Gorge and had our jet boat ride and walk back; the jet boat owner told us he wouldn’t be there for about a week now as rain was forecast in the west which would bring lots of flood water down this river. He was right (see below)! On the way back we saw the Nor’west cloud arch, which signals North Westerly warm winds, usually bringing rain to the west. In fact it lasted until today, we had occasional rain, often sunshine, high winds but always warm, but on the west they’ve had torrential rain. Apparently they’ve had something like 400mm rain per day that flooded the Milford Track, one of the worlds ‘Great Walks’ and one people have to book up at least 6 months in advance. 
Alpacas - very silly looking sheep!
We heard the path was 1.5m deep in floodwater, with trampers being told to stay put in the huts and await helicopter rescue as soon as conditions improved. It also washed away a bridge on the western road north of the Franz Joseph Glacier, completely cutting off that side of the country and making that road a 300km cul-de-sac. Additionally a landslip in Arthurs Pass also cut off that road. It meant that anyone on that side of the country had a massive detour to make. Not very pleasant, but we haven’t heard of any injuries.

Rains on the mountain tops flood rivers on our side, even though it’s been relatively dry. We heard that the Rakaia gorge bridge was in danger due to high flood waters and people at Rakaia Huts, where the river enters the Pacific and has the ‘gentle lagoon and pebble beach’ Jackie described, were advised to consider evacuating due to high water. We were going to have a look yesterday but decided against it as it was very windy and started to rain, so we left it until today, going over the ‘longest bridge’ over the Rakaia river, into Ashburton (quite a busy metropolis), back through Methven and onto the Rakaia Gorge bridge. The river was amazingly full of a raging torrent of very muddy water. Below are two pictures taken on our two visits to the gorge, but they don’t really convey the atmosphere. The first has a fast flowing, but relatively benign clear blue river, the second shows a much fuller, angrily flowing muddy river with lots of swirling currents, not one you would want to fall into!
Before - clear blue water

After -  muddy, angry water




























Next we went back to Rakaia Huts and the nice blue lagoon we saw a few days before. There were two reasons for this, one is to see how flooded it was (yes, the lagoon was a lot fuller of muddy water, but no flooding in the village or campsite), but the other was to do a bit of investigation work on the ancient history of New Zealand!

Our ‘investigation’ work was instigated by a book I’ve just read, ‘1434, the year a magnificent Chinese fleet sailed to Italy and ignited the renaissance’ by Gavin Menzies. I’d picked it up in a second hand bookshop in Hornby and was interested as I’d previously read his first book ‘1421, the year China discovered America’. In his first book he presents evidence (which is quite believable), that the Chinese had a huge armada of up to 1000 large ships (up to 50m wide and 150m long), sailed and mapped the world long before any European and that they produced maps (or charts) that were given to Europeans (to allow them to pay homage to China), that allowed subsequent European ‘discoveries’. He claims that Columbus, Vespuchi, Magellan and Cook all sailed with Chinese maps, so knew exactly where they were going. In his second book he claims a Chinese delegation, led by Zeng He, visited Venice in 1434 and gave maps, knowledge on civil and military engineering, machines and star charts for sea navigation. He claims our great European geniuses and inventors, such as Leonardo Da Vinci and Regiomontanus were merely very good illustrators of Chinese inventions! Bold stuff!

The evidence he submits is quite believable, but he makes such massive leaps of faith that it’s easy to discredit parts, which throws doubt on the whole thing. 
The raised 'fortified' bank (lagoon and Pacific in the distance)
I’ll leave you to read the books if you’re interested in this sort of thing, but our interest in New Zealand concerns research conducted by a Cedric Bell in 2003 that he used in his ‘1434’ book. Menzies claims the eventual cause of China retreating from world domination is the almost total destruction of their fleet following the impact of a comet in the sea off the SE coat of New Zealand that caused a massive tsunami right across the Pacific rim, with a wave about 220m high around New Zealand. The wave, he says, caused the destruction of over 90% of their ships, a situation they never recovered from. 
I don't think Jackie was taking this very seriously!

Apparently evidence of a 20m diameter crater has been found on the sea bed that dates to this time (1440) and Bell claims the Chinese had been settled in New Zealand for many centuries by then (up to 2000 years ago). He produces evidence that they had a city where Christchurch now is, major harbours on the Banks Peninsular at Akaroa and another large settlement at Rakaia Huts! He also claims the boulders on the beach at Moeraki are actually ballast from a Chinese treasure ship and he says, on the beach at Moeraki are the remains of about nine 50m x 150m ships that were smashed into the cliffs by the force of the tsunami. I’ve seen these boulders on a previous visit to NZ 12 years ago and we intend to visit again with Pauline, Jackie’s mum, in February, so I will be keen to look for evidence. Watch this space, I’ll report then!

You can read Cedric Bell’s report on Rakaia Huts (and Moeraki) by following this link:
and we went to try to see his evidence. The large settlement was apparently situated where a campsite and some housing now stands and you can see on the website a sketch of how he thinks it looked. We wanted to look for the fortified bank, the flat area of the old town, the harbour they built and the 12m wide canal he claims linked the lagoon to Lake Ellesmere. 
The man-made 'harbour capable of taking ocean-going ships?
He claims to have located evidence of wall foundations underground in the campsite using instruments, so of course we couldn’t check these. We could see what he claims is the fortified bank and the flat area in the campsite and could see what he claims was the harbour and canal, but it seems there could be many other explanations for what we saw. 

The flat area and ‘fortified bank’ could, for example, have been formed by a retreating glacier from the last ice age and the ‘harbour’ and ‘canal’ look to us like natural features on a shingle beach. Why, for example, build a canal parallel to the sea when the lagoon and Ellesmere Lake are both open to the sea? Why not use the sea? 
The 12m wide canal? Note the Pacific further to the left
Why build fortifications when the land was uninhabited at the time (pre-maori)? Read the books and look at the evidence and make up your own mind, but at the moment I’m open minded. I’ve no doubt there is something in what he says, but whether it’s quite as he believes is anyone’s guess. 







Another view of the 'fortified' bank and the flat area (now the campsite)

I can remember in the 1970’s a guy called Erich Von Daniken writing a book called ‘Chariots of the Gods’, where he claimed aliens visited the earth long ago. He referred to these old maps, shown in Menzies books, claiming they could only have been drawn from space. Menzies says the distortion is due to the difficulty in determining longitude in those days and, if he corrects for it they are almost perfect! Others disagree. It will be impossible to ever prove, but it’s very interesting!

I’m looking forward to further ‘investigation’!

Monday, 31 December 2012

New Years Eve and thoughts on 2012



Well the weather wasn’t quite as predicted, after roasting on Christmas Day it was cloudy with showers for the next three days, not that it matters a jot to us, it’s just a shame for all the people whose summer holiday started on Boxing Day! We had already decided not to leave the house on Boxing Day for fear of getting trampled in the holiday rush! So apart from food shopping we finally went out again on 29th
Boarding the jet boat

We followed some of John’s suggestions and headed towards Methven via the Rakaia Gorge. Once at the Gorge we had a jet boat ride up river and walked back! Jet boats seem very popular here, they are well suited to the very shallow (but at times hugely wide) rivers as they can travel on nothing. They can also turn on a sixpence and are very manoeuvrable! Our driver played to his audience, which was us, and a family with three young children so he was very restrained, only doing slow spins, and warning us before hand, he still managed to apparently drive straight at rocks and make me squeak though.
Driving very fast, straight at a rock!




Our dropping off point, on the gravel!

























Speeding off after dropping us at the track start















The upper gorge from the footpath

It was a very pleasant walk, not long and as usual we smashed book time, the river really was an amazing colour, apparently if we run a bath here, it too will be blue. 

The lower gorge, our man out on a 2nd jet boat run
Old coal mine in the 'Snowdon' area















Dramatic views from the footpath















Nearing the end showing the river broadening into a 'braided river'















We got back to the car planning to head off to have lunch in Methven, but we did have to stop to speak to the bride first though! They weren’t married at that stage, but were having photos taken before the ceremony! I’m not sure she knew the boys had only just made it as we heard them talking about running out of fuel as we’d followed them down to the beach! She looked lovely and we had a really good chat, I’m sure she shouldn’t have been talking to us about where we were from etc on her wedding day, but she seemed genuinely interested!


Methven is a ski town, and had a slightly abandoned feel about it, but we still got a good lunch, before heading back over the longest bridge in NZ. Sadly it wasn’t very impressive as it was very low, but we’ve done it! We were late for the cats, but only an hour or so, so they quickly forgave us!

The Nor'west or Canterbury cloud arch (see: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nor%27west_arch)
 The cats do make us laugh, we seem to have one good night with Tiffany (she comes in at bedtime) and one when she is a dirty stop out! This isn’t really a problem except that I wake up and call, and she still doesn’t come in and then sleeping is a bit of a problem! Then the boys want to go out, then they want to come back in…. it’s a small price to pay however as they are great. The most we’ve shared the bed with so far is 3 – the big ones, Tiff was out! That was a bit of a squash! I’ve met the local hedgehog a couple of times while calling Tiff, once he was making a huge amount of noise squaring up to another one (boy or girl? How do I know?) The second time he stood stock still pretending he wasn’t in the light of the torch, I thought I’d try stroking him, first his foot, and then his cheek, below the spike line! Well you have to try these things and he didn’t seem to mind! Next doors lambs seem to want some attention too, baaing at me as I hold the gate for the car to go through, quick stroke there too!
The Pacific Ocean at 'Rangaia Huts'. The cloud shows why NZ is called 'The land of the long white clouds'
 We went to look at the sea today at the nearest point, which was 20 mins away, nice pebbly beach, the other side of a long spit of land forming a gentle lagoon. The sea looked fab, so B went in for a paddle, next thing I knew, I was moving his clothes further up the beach and he was on his knees with a wave breaking over his head! It was very funny, but explains why there were no kids on the beach! We didn’t go in for a swim as we thought that might be the end of us! He came out and I thought he’d managed to go in with his hanky in his pocket, but no, his pockets were full of pebbles. That wouldn’t help if he’d decided to swim!


On the whole we haven’t done much here but cook, eat (drink) and fuss cats! It’s been heaven and I shall be really sad when it’s over and our adventure starts again!


Thoughts on 2012:
The last year has seen so many changes :– 

  • “Yes you can have redundancy” Hurrah! But still scary!

  • B being at home to cook my dinner from May

  • Streamlining our lives, we gave away and sold so many of our belongings.

  • Really enjoying my leaving do, thank you to all those that were there.

  • Renting the House out.

  • Re-homing Jasper, very hard, but Hilda is wonderful.

  • Saying good bye to all our family and friends, (it was lovely to leave from my Brothers and spend our last day with Charles and Caroline)
  • To realise that people like us, and want to read the blog, to be told “Reading your blog is like having a hug from you, and cheers me up when I am sad”
Big changes, big upheavals, yes, we miss our friends, but its fab!