South America, Days 171 to 183 - Stage 35: The final stage - Brazil to the UK

Enjoying chiperones, pescaditos and a dry white wine for lunch in Las Palmas, Gran Canaria

Day 171-175 at sea

Pulling away from the port at Fotaleza, Brazil under a full moon. Goodbye Brazil and South America, it's been fab! Onwards back to Europe

Five days crossing the Atlantic. A lot of reading, eating and relaxing with a few highlights thrown in.

Argentine tango lessons for an hour in the afternoon with an hours practice in the evening. This worked better on the first day, starting at 20.45 which is about when we finish dinner (since Jeanie had a word about our waiter who seemed to be very slow so we were always the last to leave). Since then it's changed to 20.00 which isn't nearly as convenient for us though is probably better for second sitting.

Sonia, one of our dinner table colleagues singing in one of the bars (Pigalle Lounge) during the Karaoke slot. We all went to cheer her on - she was very good!

We didn't make it at all yesterday, day 2, though. The rest of our tablemates had been invited to a 'previous cruisers' party, and again, had taken us as guests. There was a singer on the stage and the officers briefly came on, but mostly it was an exercise in getting as much free champagne as possible. We were obviously learning from the masters as I think we all managed just over a bottle, in the space of an hour. It's all a bit of a blur! As is his wont this made Brian want to dance. He even found a bar with music we could Latin and ballroom to. We have been a little quiet today, though we could blame it on the fact we are losing an hour every night as the clocks change. It is all going to be a bit odd though, Portugal is in the same time zone as we are so 4 hours different from Rio, then another hour lost as we go to Spain, but then gain it back again for our arrival in the UK.

We've had port lectures, dancing and eating, though the food is 'fine' it's certainly not earth shattering!

Dion and Jeanie bought us all Simbas (they fished them out of one of those machines with a crane - they are experts and cleared the machine of them!). We now have two of them, the twins, on our bedhead at home!

Day 176 Las Palma's de Gran Canaria

We arrived at 08.00 and moored up alongside the MSC Grandiosa which makes us look tiny. It holds 5000+ people and we are very glad we are not onboard. We did consider it, it was cheaper, also left from Rio, but doesn't stop in the UK. It does stop on the east coast of Spain, but as Dad and Elizabeth weren't going to be at home there didn't seem much point!

Our ship on the left, the MSC Poesia with 2500 guests (which we think is too big) moored next to the MSC Grandiosa that holds 5000 guests. We thought ours was massive when we saw it, but its tiny compared to that monster! We thought about booking on that first for our journey home but opted for the smaller one. Even that's too big for us

We decided to walk in the opposite direction to most people, from both ships and walked along the north west coast of the island as far as we could, until we hit the military zone and couldn't go any further. Back to the ship, via the supermarket. We had asked what the policy was for bringing alcohol aboard. Before Europe it was 'confiscated' and returned on your last evening. Once in Europe seemingly you can bring on what you like. We wanted some gin to take home, so we did a test with one bottle with no comment.

On Las Palmas we walked away from the town around Las Coloradas, a protected area to the north of the island that used to be a separate islet but is now connected by a thin strip of land

We then went back onshore to go to lunch. We had a yearning for chiperones (small fried squid) and pescaditos (small fried fish) and a bottle of wine. So that's what we did and thoroughly enjoyed it.

Once we got away from the town we were in the rugged beauty of this volcanic island

Back to the ship via another supermarket for a second bottle of gin and a bottle of wine. Just to 'acquire' a couple of wine glasses then....

A good bit of exercise after 5 sea days across the Atlantic

Day 177 Funchal Madeira 

Walked into town with Dion, Jeanie, Penny and Michelle. We'd bought tickets online the night before for the cable car which would let us jump the queue. At 09.15 however, there was no queue. It was a long way up, but we got good views, which isn't always the case. We balked at paying €15 for the gardens so went to look at the queue for the toboggan down the hill. Jeanie, Michelle and Brian were keen. I would have gone too, but the queue was already long and it didn't take you back to town but left you a taxi ride away in the middle of nowhere. When I say toboggan, it's a sled on runners, pushed and then held back by two blokes! 

Jackie interacting with a robot in the Museum of Science and Technology at Las Palmas

Coffee break instead then and use the return on the cable car, that we'd all bought, just in case. The queue to go up the cable car at this point was huge. Very pleased we were there early. Met up with Vicky, who Brian and I had lunch with one day, who I'd told Michelle about, and now they are spending a few days together in Germany when they disembark. Mooched about a bit, ticking off all the spots on Brian and Jeanie's respective tours, finishing with a Madeira tasting for those of us that drink. Michelle and Vicky going back to the ship. A pleasant enough tasting, but fortified wine will never really be my thing, even with Porto being the next stop!

Outside the museum is a replica of La Nina, one of three Spanish ships used by Christopher Columbus on his voyage of European discovery of the Americas. This one has some fire damage, which was very recent. Behind it is our ship, illustrating just how tiny the ships were that sailed into uncharted waters

Finally saw three dolphins as we sailed away from Madeira. First we've seen in the whole trip. I don't expect the wildlife we had on the last cruise, but there is no forward facing observation lounge on this ship which has been my favourite place on all the other ships we've been on. The lack of that, and lack of book exchange/library have been two disappointments on this trip.

That's our ship. Huge isn't it!

Day 178 at sea 

Having crossed the Atlantic with calm seas it was a surprise for the wind and waves to get up as we left Madeira, and continue until we arrived in Leixos. We have read that the weather has changed all over Europe though with snow in the Alps and even suggested for the UK. I guess we must be on the edge of whatever weather that is.

Sailing away from Gran Canaria whilst we enjoy a glass of wine

This did make for 'interesting' tango which has all turned a bit disappointing. Apparently we are doing a show (tomorrow as I write). Her excited announcement was met with absolute silence. She may be a good dance teacher, but choreographing and teaching a little dance isn't her strong point.

Madeira. That's Michelle on the left and Jeanie, two of our dinner table colleagues

Day 179 Leixos

Leixos is about 13km from Porto and itself has little to offer. If it had just been the two of us we'd probably have used the metro, but for 7 it was easier just to pay the €15 each return transfer from the ship. It was cold and grey as we set off though improved to sunshine by the end of the day as we sailed away.

Jackie walking us the slope to the cable car in Funchal. When we went up it was empty, when we came down there were queues out of the building and down the road

Porto is built on many hills which wasn't great for everyone though we all liked the city. It did improve dramatically after we stopped for an early lunchtime bottle of wine for Jeanne, Brian and I and a glass of port each for Penny and Dion. It was a nice day though and I'm happy to explore the local areas. The ships trips from Southampton, when we disembark are to Stonehenge, Windsor Castle, and London! Not exactly local.

At the top of the chair lift in Funchal. Our ship is on the right, there were four big ships in that day, pouring probably 12000 people onto the island

Our departure was delayed, by a couple of hours. We heard this was because of a late returning tour. We eventually set off during dinner only to find ourselves turning round and sitting in the harbour a short way from land. At this point we got a tannoy about a medical emergency. It has to be said, tannoys on this ship are very irritating as we get them in English, Spanish, German, French, Portuguese and Italian. People maybe stop talking for the announcement in their language, but maybe not. English is always first so if you are in the cabin is virtually over before you've managed to open the door to hear, and is usually so heavily accented it doesn't always make sense.

Jackie and Michelle find a cat!

Finished dinner and went to our 21.45 show which was interrupted about 22.00 to say we were finally underway but would arrive late in La Coruna, 10.00 instead of 07.00. This would put the stoppers on Jeanne and Dion who had bought train tickets to Santiago de Compostela €20 each. Late arrival meant that as Jeanne was determined to go she bought an excursion bus ticket €80 to guarantee getting back. Not such a cost saving then!

The church Nossa Senhora do Monte at the top near the chairlift top station

From them we heard that a lady had been taken to hospital during the day, with her luggage and everything. The public hospital had refused to guarantee the security of her luggage so she had refused to stay and returned to the ship. She was obviously not as well as she thought she was so was returned to land again, this time to a private hospital. Whether any of this is true who can possibly say!

Inside the church with a beautifully painted wooden ceiling 

Day 180 La Coruna 

With Jeanne gone to Santiago de Compostela that left us with Dion, Michelle, Penny and Vicky. We were going for a walk around the coastline of the peninsula, with a sculpture park and Hercules Tower. The oldest still used lighthouse in the world. I don't think it much resembled the one the Romans built but....

Outside the church looking down. Our ship is still there, that's good!

We knew Penny and Michelle wouldn't want to do this and were a little surprised when Vicky did want to. We actually had a good time, once we'd waited for the shuttle bus queue to die down. Another 15km, helps make up for the sea days. With the late start I was getting peckish and decided it was now 'safe' to eat the emergency rations, the mini pack of Starmix I picked up in the barbers and have been carrying, in my tiny handbag, for 6 months!

These are the baskets you can sit in and be pushed downhill by these nicely dressed drivers. There are no brakes, other than the two men on each and they go at quite a pace down a steep road - what could possibly go wrong? We were going to do it, but the queue was very long, it was quite expensive and it only took you so far leaving a long walk or taxi ride which we've no doubt would be very expensive for captive audience tourists. We declined!

Eating became of more people importance as we headed through the old town towards the ship. I'd almost decided that it would be quicker and easier to come back to the ship when we came upon a tiny tapas bar, called the Chiperone. It only had a small menu, but chiperones were obviously on it! I said I was staying, the rest could do what they liked. Vicky headed back, Dion stayed but didn't want a glass of wine - he only likes sweet and that wasn't on the menu. This man adds sweetener to water! He also claims to eat anything, except.... What about tortilla? Spanish omelette? No, it's nothing to do with Mexican food. I think he quite enjoyed it, and I know I enjoyed my lunch.

There were some lovely gardens at the back of the church (still on Madeira)

Stopped at the supermarket to buy a final bottle of wine for our pre dinner drinks and we are all good. At least we are subtle with it though. Wine in a glass to sit in a lounge with a crossword. Penny keeps turning up to dinner with 99cent cartons of wine or €2 cava for the table which Dion then has to acquire glasses for and pour out. I wonder what the corkage charge on a 99cent wine carton is?

Back down the cable car in Funchal and we walked round the old Portuguese fort de Sao Tiago. No photos of the fort as we've done it before (in 2017) and its in a previous blog post. This car is an old Austin car, made in Birmingham UK, our nearest home city

Day 181 Getxo (for Bilbao)

We've been to Bilbao, in Ted, so were planning on staying near the ship in Getxo, though we have actually been there before too, probably 10 years ago. The main attraction is the suspended transporter bridge which we took the car on, following the sat nav from an overnight stop before getting the ferry back to the UK.

Buildings on the cliff edge in Funchal showing its volcanic origins

We were quite surprised that no one else was going to Bilbao either. Oh well, I'm sure I can cope for one more day!

Walk along the promenade, foot passengers on the transporter bridge, interactive museum, little ferry back across the river and walk back. Another 15km

Rua de Santa Maria is a narrow street in Funchal full of fabulous old buildings, many cafes and restaurants with tables and chairs across the road, lots of souvenir shops and many painted doors and walls like this one. A 'must see' in Funchal

Day 182 at sea 

We all have to present ourselves to UK border force, better today than when actually trying to disembark. The majority of people have also had to pay money to get an ETA to enter. That was a previous day, which we didn't have to bother with!

The Art Deco market building in Funchal

Our last sea day, so prepare the blog then go and pack. Tomorrow we dock in Southampton where we get the train back to Alvechurch. £28.39 with our two together Railcard for tickets bought in January. Split ticketing means we do have to change seats at Banbury but small price to pay. A single when I looked yesterday was £95!

This is a shop in Funchal selling sardines. Just sardines, nothing else. You can get them in a  marinade of all sorts of flavours

We've just turned into the English Channel which is like a mill pond. The Bay of Biscay was also remarkably calm. We've been very lucky. We arrived in La Coruna, along with 4 other ships which was fine as we just walked, but the day before no ships had docked as it was too rough. We also left the Canaries just before my news feed had warnings for holiday cancellations due to high wind and weather coming in.

Back on the ship and a look back at the rock that had been declared an independent country by Dom Renato. He bought it for €45,000 and declared it the Principality of Pontinha in 2005 and himself His Royal Highness Dom Renato I. He based it on an historical declaration of its separation by Charles III and it's case is still ongoing at the UN and the International Court of Justice in The Hague. Today it is all locked up, but we did visit it in 2017, but Dom Renato I wasn't there at the time

Day 183 Southampton and home 

We mooched around the ship rather than dashing off, well, as far as we are concerned, it's actually our cabin for another few days. Walked out own luggage off the ship, through the port and to the station. We are early, of course we are, so as long as the train is on time it's all good. Signalling issues are causing delays on the section of line to Basingstoke, but hey, welcome home!

This is a photo of a photo. As we got into the cable car in Funchal photographer was present taking everyone's photos (they don't miss a trick do they?). Dion bought the photo when we reached the top for €12! LtoR: Penny, me, Jackie, Dion, Jeanie and Michelle

Dion had bought a bottle of Poncha, a Madeira alcoholic drink that he wanted us all to try at the dinner table. Like the last bottle he bought he couldn't break the seal so a knife came in handy!

The very picturesque Porto in Portugal and ahead is the bridge Luiz I, built by Gustav Eiffel, he who built the Eiffel Tower in Paris. I didn't spot the bird flying overhead until afterwards

On the bridge over the Douro River with a view of the Ribeira funicular railway on the right. Funiculars are normally a constant slope with a carriage that is built up on the lower side to keep it level. This one levels out at the top and, watching it move the supports changed to always keep the cabin level as the gradient changed. I wanted to know how it did that, but never found out. I discussed it with Dion, another engineer, but he seemed fairly uninterested

Covering the sights of Porto we came to the railway station, a must see. The building on the slits is a wine tasting restaurant and it was suggested we go and sample their wares

Before we did we had a look at the station to see what all the fuss is about

The entrance is the place to be as there are many tiled artworks that tour groups spent a long time telling people about

We had a more important date in the upstairs wine bar. LtoR here is Michelle, Penny, Vicky, Jackie, me, Jeanie and Dion. We had mixtures of white wine, Madeira wine and some cheese, bread and olives. The rest of the day got sillier!

We all wanted to go in here. Its the Lello & Irmao bookstore. It's one of the oldest bookstores in Portugal and, from the photos we've seen its amazing inside and was an inspiration for the Harry Potter movies. Unfortunately there were huge queue's, it was very expensive to get in and the earliest slot we could get in was 7:00pm, after the time we were due to sail. We moved on!

This was a sculpture garden Jeanie had on her visit list (it wasn't on mine - I think it was the Jardim de Carriho Videira)

Back on the ship and we've arrived at the port of La Coruna and this is typical of a port stop with everyone waiting to depart the ship. We've docked, the gangplanks are in place and we're waiting for clearance from the port authorities. As usual, people on excursions are given priority, we're just going for a walk round the town 

This is what we wanted to see, Hercules Tower. It has its origin in Roman times and is considered the oldest lighthouse in the world. Here we are in part of the sculpture park that surrounds it on the headland about 2 and a half miles north of La Coruna. Today we're with Vicky and Dion

Its set on a beautiful rocky headland

Dion taking a selfie with Jackie

If we're going to do silly pictures, how about this one. I set the camera up on a 10 second times and we were trying our best to be airborne when the shutter went off. Only Jackie made it, but we weren't far off and, if nothing else, we had a good laugh!

One of the sculptures. I forget what it should be, but from here it looks like an elephant!

One of the sculptures is Stonehenge!

And a mermaid

A 'must see' in La Coruna. The buildings along the Avenida da Marina in La Coruna. This is a very well photographed scene. I'm thinking of getting this made into a jigsaw puzzle. What do you think?

Next day making our final approach into Getxo, Spain. This is from Deck 7 and we're about 3 meters from the dock. The entry onto the dock we be through the movable corridor fixture that will be raised to this deck 7 level to allow us to all file off and wander into town 

Most tour excursions went into Bilbao, a lovely city, but we've done that before in Big Ted, our motorhome, so we thought we'd look round the small town of Getxo. We have been here before and the number 1 sight is this transported bridge, one of only a few left in the world. The structure on top supports a cabin (currently on the right) which is driven across the river. It takes three or four cars at a time and 20 or so foot passengers. It cost €0.55 per person and about €2 for a car. We've been over this in our car quite a few years ago (I think we were doing the blog at the time so I'm sure there's a record of it. It was after we'd done a ski season, had gone on to see Jackie's dad and were returning home of the Bilbao to Portsmouth ferry)

Here we all are in the cabin going over. It looks like there are more than 20, perhaps I'll update my guess to 30 or so!

We had a good walk round, stopped for a beer, looked round a very interesting museum and got the ferry back over (a bargain at €0.50 per person!) to walk back to the ship. Well, that's about it, no more photos of any interest. We're now back home after an amazing trip. We've ticked off some fabulous bucket list items and have got back to a UK that is moving into Spring with warm weather forecast for next week. Here's to being home and a summer in the UK while we plan what comes next...

Nearly forgot to post this other silly photo from La Coruna. A three legged Jackie!